Truck sat for a while and I had to pull the IP and go through it to clean it out. I have it back together and primed it with the top cover off to get as much fuel in there as possible. I tried cranking with the injector lines off (at the injector end) to purge air, but I'm not getting anything out of the pump. Fuel filter is supplying fuel very well. But after some prolonged cranking (with appropriate starter cool-down times), I'm getting nothing out of the injector lines. Solenoid lines are plugged in, although I do have the alternator off so that line is disconnected (power for the solenoids?).

Any thoughts?

 

Did you put the top on the IP correctly??

There is a special procedure for doing so, if not followed it can cause a run away, the FSS solenoid does not engage.

If it does start, keep something handy to cover the intake with in case it runs away OR RUN!

Typically when these diesels set for a long time, add clean fuel, Replace fuel filter, bleed the filter schrader, and start it.

Pulling the top of the IP and filling it with fuel is pointless, the Lift pump will do that in a few seconds of cranking.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I think I put it on correctly. I set the armature of the solenoid so that it could operate the linkage that runs down the passenger side of the fuel reservoir. I have to admit that I wasn't sure that was correct. Any information on how to install the top correctly or a diagram of it would be appreciated.

 

If you take the cover off and it is not installed correctly, you can jamb the governor linkage wide open.

Not only will you have a run away engine, but cutting the fuel line or starving the engine for air will be the only way to shut it down.

She'll just keep running faster till she blows.

Proper install procedure.

Reinstalling the governor cover on the IP.

1. Make sure the screws are NOT in the governor cover.
2. Position the cover about 1/4" forward of the final alignment (towards the front of the truck) and about 1/8" above the pump.
3. Move the cover rearward and downward into position so the arm contacts the link being careful not to roll the gasket.
4. With the cover on the pump and before installing the screws, move the cover forward and backward until preload of the internal spring is felt indicating that the engine shut off is not binding internally.
Reinstall the three governor cover screws with one flat washer and one lock washer with each screw. The flat washer must be against the pump cover. Screw with the seal wire hole must be in the rear position of the governor cover. Tighten screws to 40 inch pounds.

NOTE:
The lock washer for the governor cover assembly must be installed between the terminal grounding strap and the governor cover before installing the screw in that corner.

5. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position, and touch the fuel shut off solenoid wire to the solenoid terminal. A clicking sound should be heard as the wire is connected and disconnected.

WARNING:
If the fuel shut off solenoid clicking is not heard, the fuel shut off metering linkage may be jambed in the wide open position.
The engine must not be started if the clicking is not heard, as a run away engine condition may occur, resulting in serious engine damage and possible bodily harm. The engine can not be shut off if it is started with jammed fuel metering linkage.

If fuel shut off solenoid clicking is not heard, do not start the engine and check for a minimum of 10 volts battery voltage at the fuel shut off solenoid connector.

 

[quote=Festus Hagen;8782348]Did you put the top on the IP correctly??

If it does start, keep something handy to cover the intake with in case it runs away OR RUN!
Then call 911

 

Why does that call 911 sound like something I heard recently?

 

Thanks for the input, guys. I managed to figure it out. I put some air pressure (low pressure) through the inlet and worked the linkage. Once I saw what position the linkage was in with fuel on and off, it was easy to see where the solenoid should go.

I got it back together by energizing the solenoid for a couple of seconds and putting the cover in place. I left the injector lines off and cranked it some until I saw fuel at all 8 lines. Hooked up the remaining parts and she fired up on the second try. She's running good, although the idle's a little high. Not sure what's going on there. I dialed out the fuel adjustment one flat while I had the IP apart. It actually seemed to be run all the way in. But when I dialed the idle adjustment screw as far as it would go, she's still only come down to about 1000 rpm.

I probably didn't need to pull the IP but it had been leaking for a while and I wanted to make sure it was clean, which it was. The leak(s) is(are) cured and everything seems ok except the idle RPM. Have to do some work on the brakes before I can take it for a spin to see how it runs, and I have to set up the TPS.

The only part that made me the most nervous was whether or not I got the timing gear in place on the right tooth. I got lucky, but I still think I should have just left the gear and housing in place. I pulled the IP a second time to check for a leak it had (just a loose bolt) and it was much easier to pull the IP without the housing and timing gear than I though it would be. So I'm kind of smacking myself in the head for doing it the hard way the first time, when what I thought would be the hard way turned out to be the easy way. So I'm a living witness to the fact that the housing and gear should just stay where they are.

 

with the idle not kicking down your cold start may be stuck

 

The cold start solenoid is working correctly. It actually held the idle above 1000 rpm until it kicked down.

There's a little bit of adjustment in the solenoid mounting bracket and I checked that also to make sure it was back as far as it could be.

 

Just wondering if it could be something simple like the throttle cable sticking and it's hard to notice?

 

I had the throttle cable off at one point. Plus I can see the throttle lever against the stop. I think I'll try a couple of adjustments on the pump and see what they do.

 

Is the high idle adjustment to far out and it holding it open a crack even when the high idle is off...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Well, if you're talking about the screw adjustment on the passenger side that is on the throttle cable lever, I backed that out as far as it would go.

While I had the IP apart, I turned up the fuel screw one flat. Could that cause the higher idle? I was under the impression that would increase fuel delivery but wouldn't affect idle speed.

 

Turning up the IP will not affect the idle.

No I'm talking about the high idle solenoid, is there a gap between it and the throttle lever when it's warm. (>112 deg.)

If you pull (with hand) on the throttle lever towards idle can you get it to idle down some??

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

That's good to know. I didn't think it would affect the idle, but I wanted to be sure.

I was able to bring down the idle some by running the idle set screw out as far as it would go until the throttle lever touched the high idle solenoid. The solenoid bracket has some room for adjustment so I loosened it and pulled it back away from the throttle lever, but it was already back as far as it could go. Hmph!

I'm starting to think that perhaps something in the internal linkage is a bit out of whack. I didn't take the linkage apart, but I did remove it by lifting it out as an assembly. There's an adjustment that comes in from the back of the IP that has springs on the shaft. When I first opened the IP up, I seem to remember that spring being seated on the linkage assembly. However, since I put it back together, that spring doesn't touch the linkage when the linkage is in the idle position. It does when the throttle lever is moved, though. I don't really understand why it's not touching now because I pulled it out as an assembly and it can only go back in one way.

I better pull the top of the IP again and see if there's something I got wrong.