95 Ranger thump
I have a 95 Ranger XLT 3.0V6, and from time to time I experience hard shifting, both up and down, in lower gears (auto trans). I also, on rare occasion, have a flashing OD light, which I'm sure indicates some kind of error.
I finally took the truck to a tranny shop today, and he advises me that the torque converter clutch discs are slipping (based upon the error code he retrieved), and the tranny in turn compensates by increasing the pressure of the fluid, thereby causing the hard shifting.
My question is: does all this sound plausible??
He is suggesting rebuilding both the T/C and the tranny, for a total of about $1700.
It seems to me if you replaced the T/C (could do it on my own for less than $200), things would work okay.
Any comments of thoughts on this? I'd like to figure this out before I invest any more time or money into this project. Thanks!
A tranny "service" or machine flush, doesn't usually include a pan drop & cleaning & a filter change, unless we ask & pay extra for it.
So if that wasn't done, how long has the tranny filter thats in there now, been in the vehicle????
Any gunk in the pan thats stirred up by the cleaning solvents in a machine flush, must First be strained through the tranny filter & pumped through the tranny valve body, torque converter, cooler & lines, on it's way out at the disconnected tranny return line!!!!!
SO, if the tranny hadn't previously been serviced on a timely basis as called out in our scheduled maintenance manual & had a deposit load, the tranny filter flow may now be restricted, or the innards may be trashed up from stirred up gunk.
Do you know, or can you find out if the tranny has had regular 30K mile pan drops, filter changes & compete fluid pump outs, with the specified fluid in the past, or was the last "tranny service" an attempt to solve a tranny shifting problem????
What I'm trying to get a feel for is, whats the likelyhood you have a pressure problem because of a restricted tranny filter, or a trashed up valve body or clogged up shift solenoids, or varnished up bands, from the slipping friction heat of worn out tranny fluid, that was cooked on before the flush!!!!!
Post the tranny trouble code Number, or numbers, found in the tranny computer scan????
If you come to believe it's a deposit based problem, maybe an Auto-Rx for trannies treatment would be worth considering.
If it's a mechanical problem with worn out shift solenoids, or worn out bands, or a torque converter problem, then the Auto-Rx won't likely do much, or any good.
A bunch more thoughts for pondering. Let us know what you find.
I do not have access to any information which would tell me how frequently the tranny has been flushed or serviced, so I'm considering worst-case scenaro. I was told it was "professionally serviced" the same time the engine was rebuilt and it looks as though the engine rebuild was done correctly.
Also, the tranny shop would not give me code number from his scan - guess he figures he'll lose business that way. I do not know how to retrieve the number myself.
In any case, perhaps the first thing to do here is to have the tranny flushed and inspected before I go too much further. I'll probably order the T/C as well, so that I am prepared to go that route next if need be.
Here is how I do it & I know if I can still get down there to do it, you can too.
Edit: add url link, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pump-out.html
Before spending any money.
That $100 or more savings would go a long way toward replacing the torque converter, if you end up having to replace it.
Right now, Before spending any money, I'd get at least one more opinion/diagnosis, by having another tranny shop or two scan the tranny computer for trouble codes & post All of the code numbers found.
Then make the decision on which way you want to move.
The pan drop, filter change & full tranny fluid pumpout, if done yourself, will cost about $50 for fluid, filter & pan gasket.
If the Dealer did the same service where I live, it would be at least $150!!!!
More thoughts for consideration.
Well, after changing the fluid, filter, and going through all the T/C problems, I'm pretty much back where I started. Still get the occasional thump, as well as the OD light flashing - after it is warmed up and has run for awhile.
From what I've read here on the forums, many people talk about replacing the valve body or the solenoids. I have since ordered and received a replacement valve body and solenoid kit.
My question, since I have not tried this before, is: can the valve body be changed out without removing the tranny? I know I will need to drop the pan - but how difficult is the procedure once this is accomplished? I have also obtained a tranny service manual, so I have access to good diagrams and info, but it does not mention this issue - it only explains the disassembly procedures for the entire unit.
One more thing: while I am doing this, would it be a good idea to install a "shift kit", since I've seen it mentioned in many posts? If so, any recommendations on which one?
As a reminder, I have the 4R44E in a 95 XLT 3.0 V6.
Your input is always great, and very much appreciated! Thanks mucho!!!
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I wouldn't do the valve body unless it was diagnosed as the correct fix for the transmission error which is evidenced by the OD light flashing.
Ford is your friend here. Take it over, talk to the Service Manager, and get the trans fixed right.
Don't create other problems, solve the problem you have.
OD still works, though. If I pull over and shut down the truck, and restart, the code is cleared, and rarely comes back. But the hard shift remains throughout the remainder of that trip.
I wouldn't do the valve body unless it was diagnosed as the correct fix for the transmission error which is evidenced by the OD light flashing.
Ford is your friend here. Take it over, talk to the Service Manager, and get the trans fixed right.
Don't create other problems, solve the problem you have.
I have since tried to install a replacement T/C, and ran into problems with the replacement unit, so I'm back to where I started.
I will have to see about going directly to Ford this time to get the right answers.
Check with your local Ford Dealer, they have a boss that they have to account to, The boss is Ford Motor Company, and the Boss wants happy loyal customers.







