clutch replacment question
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 328
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From: northwest,WA
clutch replacment question
I am thinking about taking on the task to replace my clutch (78,4x4) looking at things it looks like a lot of work but figure I dont save money by paying a shop to do it.. and something done myself is learning and satisfaction of job done .. well as best as I can do it haha.
question can I do this with no special tools? it looks like I can just take it apart and then use a wooden dowel or whatever to line up the clutch disc to the fly wheel to then put the plate on correct?
I recently rebuilt the headgasket having never done one and it came out looking and working damn good. so I am confident in my shadetree work.
am I set for the same level of work with this?
question can I do this with no special tools? it looks like I can just take it apart and then use a wooden dowel or whatever to line up the clutch disc to the fly wheel to then put the plate on correct?
I recently rebuilt the headgasket having never done one and it came out looking and working damn good. so I am confident in my shadetree work.
am I set for the same level of work with this?
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 86
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From: Southern Illinois
Its not hard to do, defiantly use an alignment tool on the clutch, i always have the speed shop resurface the flywheel while i got it apart it'll make the clutch seat better and last alot longer. Also i always take off the center hump plate in the floorboard it makes the bellhousing bolts really easy to get at. If you have any more questions just ask.
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
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Most clutch kits come with the alignment tool these days, which is nice.
It's not so much about special tools, but having plenty of time to finish the job. Just prepare for stubborn bolts and the occasional WTH moment.
Josh
It's not so much about special tools, but having plenty of time to finish the job. Just prepare for stubborn bolts and the occasional WTH moment.
Josh
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,544
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From: okc
i have never done it personally, but someone on here once told me to use an engine cherry picker, and remove the doghouse cover, then put the picker arm in the cab (with it as high up as u can), then run a chain down around the tcase, using nuts and bolts to secure the chain (preferably bolted to the case), then lower the tcase down onto the tranny jack...supposedly you can do this with the tranny too...like i said, ive never done this, so use caution and make sure the chain is secured properly....it always sounded like the best way to do it, i just already had mine done when i read about it..if i ever drop it again thats how im gonna try....good luck with it....
wow after 7 years i just now hit 2000 posts...i must be slacking....
wow after 7 years i just now hit 2000 posts...i must be slacking....
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,326
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From: Middle TN
Some problems to watch out for:
You should replace the rear main seal and the trans shaft seal.
The clutch, pressure plate and flywheel contact surfaces must be cleaned and kept absolutely clean and free of oil or the clutch will chatter.
Some flywheel bolts on some engines must have a sealer applied to keep from weeping engine oil.
Use thread lock on the pressure plate bolts.
Be careful when tightening the pressure plate bolts, pull it down evenly or you can warp the cover.
Always replace the pilot and throwout bearing.
Make sure the fork is fully inserted in the throwout bearing before bolting up tight.
Take your time and double check, If something doesn't want to go together, stop and check for a problem.
You should replace the rear main seal and the trans shaft seal.
The clutch, pressure plate and flywheel contact surfaces must be cleaned and kept absolutely clean and free of oil or the clutch will chatter.
Some flywheel bolts on some engines must have a sealer applied to keep from weeping engine oil.
Use thread lock on the pressure plate bolts.
Be careful when tightening the pressure plate bolts, pull it down evenly or you can warp the cover.
Always replace the pilot and throwout bearing.
Make sure the fork is fully inserted in the throwout bearing before bolting up tight.
Take your time and double check, If something doesn't want to go together, stop and check for a problem.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 537
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From: LaGrande,Ore
The tranny jack will work with the truck on the floor/ jack stands (safety first) The cherry picker/ engine hoist will work well also. My rigs are newer and the floor is solid in them, so I don't think of using the hoist, but it will work well. Use what you have or want to rent. Good luck, keep us in the loop. OBCB
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 2
From: The Vieux Ford, Kansas
I have never tried cherry picker method to pull a transmission and T case, but as for doing it with a jack I think it easier to just pull the motor. This would be a good time to regasket and fix anything on the motor you want too as well. You will spend a lot less time on your back for sure.
-John
-John
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 206
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I agree with Johnboy427, Pull the motor, it's not that bad. I would rather remove the hood and radiator and mess with the exhaust bolts, than take apart the interior and being on my back trying to remove a transmission and transfer case. Just my opinion and the way I did it.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Southaven,Ms
first clutch i changed , i pulled the tranny. heavy and cumbersome. it fell off jack and was a pain to get back in. second time , i supported tranny with floor jack and block of wood and pulled the motor,much much easier!