clutch
clutch
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 26
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Clutch for my 76 360
Trying to get an idea of what I should expect with a clutch repair for my 1976 F250 Highboy.
Was driving it the other day and I heard a 'ping' sound and the clutch got a little easier to push. Must've lost a spring somewhere, huh?
Anyway, I'm gonna take it down to a local shop, but I want to know what to ask them about, like, should I go with a Zoom unit, or does the flywheel need resurfacing, or replacement.
What else do they usually do with this type of repair.
I've got the standard divorced NP205.
What kind of cost should I expect for the whole enchilada?
Thanks guys,
Scotty
Milton, Wa.
Was driving it the other day and I heard a 'ping' sound and the clutch got a little easier to push. Must've lost a spring somewhere, huh?
Anyway, I'm gonna take it down to a local shop, but I want to know what to ask them about, like, should I go with a Zoom unit, or does the flywheel need resurfacing, or replacement.
What else do they usually do with this type of repair.
I've got the standard divorced NP205.
What kind of cost should I expect for the whole enchilada?
Thanks guys,
Scotty
Milton, Wa.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Hello
i went with a ram clutch from summit racing 3 finger style i put a ring gear on 20 dollars from napa and had it pressed on from a local machine shop 5 more dollars resurfaced flywheel 30 dollars local repair shop 140 dollars for the clutch but hey i got a free hat with the deal and i did all the labor myself of the remove and replace witch i probably have 3 to 4 hours into removing and replacing it that was my scenario
i went with a ram clutch from summit racing 3 finger style i put a ring gear on 20 dollars from napa and had it pressed on from a local machine shop 5 more dollars resurfaced flywheel 30 dollars local repair shop 140 dollars for the clutch but hey i got a free hat with the deal and i did all the labor myself of the remove and replace witch i probably have 3 to 4 hours into removing and replacing it that was my scenario
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Clutch costs
Yeah, thanks Racedog,
I called a couple of local shops, and went to my NAPA guy today.
One shop said $800 plus to do it, with a 12/12 warranty.
They resurface the flywheel, use Sachs parts.
The other shop said $1100 plus tax.
My NAPA guy said he could get me the Sach clutch for $192 bucks, or an upgraded 'bronzed' unit for $327 (yipes!) but they're both still 12/12. (no brainer there). Both kits come with the throwout and finder tool. They resurface flywheels for an additional $35 bucks.
Sooo....I'm debating whether I want to screw around with pulling the entire transfer case and transmission out, spend about $250 bucks on parts and get scraped knuckles, ruin my clothing, get stuff in my eyes, or just keep saving my nickels until I have about a grand and just let them do it.
I called a couple of local shops, and went to my NAPA guy today.
One shop said $800 plus to do it, with a 12/12 warranty.
They resurface the flywheel, use Sachs parts.
The other shop said $1100 plus tax.
My NAPA guy said he could get me the Sach clutch for $192 bucks, or an upgraded 'bronzed' unit for $327 (yipes!) but they're both still 12/12. (no brainer there). Both kits come with the throwout and finder tool. They resurface flywheels for an additional $35 bucks.
Sooo....I'm debating whether I want to screw around with pulling the entire transfer case and transmission out, spend about $250 bucks on parts and get scraped knuckles, ruin my clothing, get stuff in my eyes, or just keep saving my nickels until I have about a grand and just let them do it.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 15
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well i bought a couple six packs and had some buddies come and help
and with the divorce transfer case it wasn't really that bad but i spent alot of time cleaning up parts when it was a part so i only ruined one set of clothes
but i went with the ram clutch from summitt because i was told that they werer equal in quality of the centerforce clutch that wow i couldn't afford for sure
and with the divorce transfer case it wasn't really that bad but i spent alot of time cleaning up parts when it was a part so i only ruined one set of clothes
but i went with the ram clutch from summitt because i was told that they werer equal in quality of the centerforce clutch that wow i couldn't afford for sure
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 448
Likes: 31
From: Park City, Utah
I would recommend you do the job yourself, however I would also highly, highly recommend you rent (or borrow) a transmission jack. A NP 435 transmission is heavy. Laying on your back and trying to muscle that beast around is very tough, and there's also the safety factor....
I know they are the spendy option, but I personally prefer the Centerforce clutches.
Some years ago I installed a relatively cheap aftermarket clutch. [I don't remember the brand, it might have been Zoom, McLeod, Ram, whatever.] Anyway a year or so later one of the three fingers on the clutch broke. Of course there was no warranty on the clutch, and even so, the labor was up to me.
I replaced the broken (cheap) clutch with a Centerforce (which has been excellent). So, in the final analysis what did I "save" by installing a cheap clutch the first time?
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 26
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Doing my own clutch
You're starting to convince me there, Blackfoot.
The cost difference between having the shop do it, versus me and a buddy would run about $700 bucks saved (including the beer!).
Also, I could possibly spring for the Centerforce unit as an upgrade then. I still don't have a shop manual for this truck (I'll get one) and I have a decent floor jack, but I'm betting I'll still need some other specialty tools (U-joint pliers, torque wrench), which I don't want to have to buy for one job.
Smart guys usually change out other parts while they have the truck opened up for surgery.
Any other little costs I'm overlooking?
The cost difference between having the shop do it, versus me and a buddy would run about $700 bucks saved (including the beer!).
Also, I could possibly spring for the Centerforce unit as an upgrade then. I still don't have a shop manual for this truck (I'll get one) and I have a decent floor jack, but I'm betting I'll still need some other specialty tools (U-joint pliers, torque wrench), which I don't want to have to buy for one job.
Smart guys usually change out other parts while they have the truck opened up for surgery.
Any other little costs I'm overlooking?
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 448
Likes: 31
From: Park City, Utah
I would absolutely have the flywheel resurfaced. I would also install a new throwout bearing. I consider those mandatory items.
I think you are supposed to install new flywheel to crankshaft bolts, but I doubt many people do.
Unless there's a problem, you won't have to get involved with the universal joints. You will have to remove the front driveshaft and the stubby one between the transmission and transfer case.
I would recommend you purchase an alignment tool which simulates the transmission's input shaft. That way the new clutch disc will be properly positioned as you tighten the pressure plate to flywheel bolts.
It's not that bad a job, but at this point it might seem daunting. If you do it yourself, in addition to saving money, you will have the pride and satisfaction of doing it.
I think you are supposed to install new flywheel to crankshaft bolts, but I doubt many people do.
Unless there's a problem, you won't have to get involved with the universal joints. You will have to remove the front driveshaft and the stubby one between the transmission and transfer case.
I would recommend you purchase an alignment tool which simulates the transmission's input shaft. That way the new clutch disc will be properly positioned as you tighten the pressure plate to flywheel bolts.
It's not that bad a job, but at this point it might seem daunting. If you do it yourself, in addition to saving money, you will have the pride and satisfaction of doing it.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 784
From: Simi Valley, CA
352/360: 11" clutch. The pressure plate bolts to the flywheel using a 12 3/8" bolt circle pattern.
390: 11 1/2" clutch. The pressure plate bolts to the flywheel using a 12 7/8" bolt circle pattern.
390: 11 1/2" clutch. The pressure plate bolts to the flywheel using a 12 7/8" bolt circle pattern.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Doing the Clutch
Yeah, thanks guys..
I'm thinking I'll wait until the weather warms up a bit more, and I have some more cash.
My NAPA guy sells a 'ceramic button' clutch for this truck (11") and the kit comes with an alignment tool and throwout bearing.
He wants $327 bucks for it, (not sure of the maker, maybe Sachs). He'll resurface the flywheel for an additional $35.
He said the ceramic button units work better, are more durable.
I'm thinking about it. I doubt my local rental shop will have a 'transmission jack', so I'll just use my floor jack and some blocks. (Pretty good clearance under the old highboy.)
Glad to know that the (divorced) transfer case won't have to be removed. But I'm still going to have to buy a torque wrench.
I'm thinking I'll wait until the weather warms up a bit more, and I have some more cash.
My NAPA guy sells a 'ceramic button' clutch for this truck (11") and the kit comes with an alignment tool and throwout bearing.
He wants $327 bucks for it, (not sure of the maker, maybe Sachs). He'll resurface the flywheel for an additional $35.
He said the ceramic button units work better, are more durable.
I'm thinking about it. I doubt my local rental shop will have a 'transmission jack', so I'll just use my floor jack and some blocks. (Pretty good clearance under the old highboy.)
Glad to know that the (divorced) transfer case won't have to be removed. But I'm still going to have to buy a torque wrench.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 448
Likes: 31
From: Park City, Utah
I'd be very surprised if a rental company didn't have a transmission jack.
The floor jack and block route doesn't give you the safety factor the transmission jack does, not does it give you the capability of small adjustments to tilt the transmission to the proper angle to align the input shaft with the clutch disc, etc.
I've done it both ways, and I will not use the floor jack and block route again. It is so much easier with the right tools.
The floor jack and block route doesn't give you the safety factor the transmission jack does, not does it give you the capability of small adjustments to tilt the transmission to the proper angle to align the input shaft with the clutch disc, etc.
I've done it both ways, and I will not use the floor jack and block route again. It is so much easier with the right tools.
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