Don't forget to carry a points coil with you, too. The flamethrower II coil will get you about 10miles down the road before the points burn and the rubbing block and pivot insulator melt. Better points might last longer but I can tell you from experience that the $10.00 ones will not. You won't need a resistor in place for the short term; a points coil without the resistor should get you home.

 

My resistor wire is still in place. Just change the bullet connector over. Hook up the wire and I am back at the low voltage. I know the coil is hotter but the points are simply a ground. Does the induction cause that much energy demand?

 

A big difference is the primary resistance. I think the Flamethrower II is something like .8ohm. My stock replacement coil is just above 2ohms. The Flamethrower II in conjunction with the resistor wire might work. It should get the total resistance close to that of a replacement coil. I might try it once in a controlled situation, like a planned test drive with plenty of places to pull off the road, before I have to rely on it to save me from a failed ignitor. Anyone here have more electrical aptitude?

 

You need to acertain if the coil is internally resisted or externally resisted. They internally resisted drop to 9 volts once started.

The resistor wire is bypassed on cranking to give a full 12 volts to the coil. When the ignition switch is released to run from crank the resistor wire is energized by the ignition switch. Thats is why the 2 red and pink join up just before the inside plug for the firewall.

As to messing with a duraspark? pertronix is two screws and the same location as stock points out and in. I have had too many duraspark modules crap out over the years. I always keep a spare module and a spare reculator in the vehicle even with those. I have never yet had a pertronix crap out.

Garbz

 

If you are going with DuraSpark, get the ignition module from a 1976 or later Ford car/truck.

DuraSpark modules have a colored plastic square used to ID them, it's just above where the wires feed out.

You want the BLUE module.

You do not want: The module used in 1974 is 1974 only, the module used in 1975 is 1975 only.

There was a red module used on some (mostly CA) 1976/79 vehicles. It was a POS from day one! There was a brown module used on some 1979/80's, another POS!

D7AZ12250A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil / Use w/DuraSpark (Motorcraft DY213)

49" long / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / Color coded red with green stripes / #16 gauge wire.

Fits: 1974/91 FoMoCo vehicles w/DuraSpark.
-------------------------------------------
Without DuraSpark: COLF12250A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY37).

61.49" long / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / Color coded PINK / #20 gauge wire.

Fits: All 1960/75 cars/trucks/Bronco's/Econolines w/o DuraSpark.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Take note of what Dave (garbz2) stated above about the reliability (or the complete lack thereof!) of DuraSpark ignition modules.

In the 1970/80's...DuraSpark was a troublesome turd of a system. Ford techs called it NeverSpark!

The blue module is the most reliable...but IMO, Petronix is the way to go.

 

I switched over to the Accel Points Eliminator kit, faster start up, better throttle response.

 

Ive ran my 300 on direct 12V points through a non resistor needed coil for a day befre. I experienced no resulting probloms and the points still look fine?

I dont carry the coil but I figure I can go down the road.

 

I have owned Fords with Durasparks for almost thirty years. One module failed in that time. I have used them successfully in high vibration environments (one truck had sand paddles on it). They rev well. You can get parts at Napa. They are affordable.

I drive a Duraspark ignited truck daily.

When I go on long trips, an extra module is with me, but so is a belt, spare tire, etc.

John

 

But have you tried it with the Flamethrower II?
If you run no resistor with a stock replacement coil, it will run fine for some time. I put about 5000 miles on some points before they started causing driveability problems with a stock replacement coil and no resistor.

 

No, Pertronix does not recomend the flamethrower II on a mild or stock engine due to its very low impedance.

The coil I got on my 300 is designed for use without a resistor wire.
My 292 has a flamethrower because I wanted a little more jazz out of the engine.

 

Oh, I understand now. You're not running the flamethrower II, it was just a suggestion.
You're right, a coil which does not require an external resistor should work fine for points if you had to swap them back. It probably has in the neighborhood of 3ohms of primary resistance.

 

Pertronix drop in thinys are good but MSD is the best way to go. I have a street fire coil in my 88 and use all MSD in my race vehicle

 

Good point, but what about your starter motor? And your starter relay? The battery? Wouldn't those also be rendered useless in the case of Thermonuclear war?

What modules have you had to replace? I have noticed that 9 times out of 10, the module that typically fails is a cheap, discount auto parts store replacement. I don't know what it is about those modules, but they do NOT last. Get a real Motorcraft ignition module, and unless you have some other problem with your ignition system, (i.e. not using a resistor) your Motorcraft ignition module should last the life of the vehicle.

 

[quote=LARIAT 85;8793107]Good point, but what about your starter motor? And your starter relay? The battery? Wouldn't those also be rendered useless in the case of Thermonuclear war?
quote]


First of all these are electro-mechanical not electronic.
Secondly I own manual trany trucks. Push starting is an option.

 

OK, but wouldn't a thermonuclear war still take out these devices?