Here's that video. The quality sucks now that it's on youtube, but it should get better. And yeah, I mumbled a lot, didn't make sense at times... And the license plate thing. What wire should I hook up into?

OH! And that black box looking thing on the passenger side fender is the MAP Sensor. What is the other metal looking one? Where do I plug in the MAP Sensor?

YouTube - What is wrong!? 1985 F150


Left

Center

Right


That cylinder thing

 

Wow, lots of questions in the video.....
First of all, as I suspected, it's a TFI ignition, but the carb has been replaced with a non-computerized model.
The square metal box by the MAP sensor, is the voltage regulator. The wires right there by it, you're right, they look nasty.....
The mess of wires by the blower motor, the big red plug was the diagnostic plug. One of the others looks like it could be the connector for the blower motor.
The single wire over by the brake booster, likely the underhood light wire, for the optional underhood light.
The wire connector you said prolly hooks to the washer bottle, does.
the rest, I didn't see well enough to venture a guess.

Don't worry about a tag light yet. Let's see if we can help you get it running first.

 

Now, those things that have unconnected wires like the MAP sensor and the carb and stuff... will it hurt my truck?

Or, did whoever mess with the truck actually did an alright job and once I put a solenoid in it, it'll fire right up and I can leave everything be for now..

Or, what should I fix?

 

Without everything hooked up for the EEC system to work, it should still run, but not as well as it could. The timing will be locked at whatever it is set to statically.

I'd first get the solenoid, and try to make it run. That's a step in the right direction.
It looks like the only thing left to completely remove the EEC system, is swapping the coil and dist for a DS2 setup. This would then allow the engine to run at it's best, due to having the timing advance as needed.

 

Okay...

So what are the steps in order to get a DS2?

I need what parts?

I need to take out what parts?

It'll cost around what?

(Tell me if i'm right or not)

New Parts Needed:
Duraspark II Distributor
Duraspark II Control Module
Duraspark II Coil (Is mine already have the right coil? Or no?)

Anything else?
Will I need the EEC Computer for this to work?

 

Agreed ... get it running first

<O</O
But … it will run fine as is with the current EEC-IV ignition system as is; it will be better with the Duraspark II ignition system… but not sure you will notice a lot of difference. It will have a little more power and it might get a little better gas mileage … but not a whole lot of a difference. I ran my truck the way your truck is currently for 2 years before I switched to Duraspark II. It should not be on the top of your “to do list”.

<O</O
For the record, you are currently running with a fixed timing and no advance. Most likely at 10 deg BTDC.
<O</O

But the cost to switch to Duraspark II will be over $100 …
Duraspark II Distributor about $70
Duraspark II Control Module about $ 35<O></O>
Duraspark II Coil $?????
<O</O

Which will buy a lot of gas. Point is… it will take a long time to recoup the money spent if you only gain 1 MPG increase in gas mileage.

Jim

 

I agree with Jim. Leave it be for now. If the TFI module or coil fail, that would be the time to go forward with the DS2 conversion. In the meantime, you can drive it, and if you happen across all or part of the needed DS2 stuff for a great price, no reason to not go ahead and buy it, assuming you have the funds to spare. Once you have all the stuff, and feel confident enough to make the swap, then its your call. If the TFI system happens to crap out just after you get the last part needed for the DS2, you would have a very valid excuse to go forward with the swap.

 

Wicked Endings, your truck looks like mine did when I first got it a few years ago. But mine was a 302 V8. Seeing as how yours is a 300 I6, I will do the best I can for your questions.

Going from questions in order from your video...

1. Those connectors are for the optional under hood light. Either that or cruise control. I didn't see either on your truck, so don't worry about those.
2. You're right...that plugs into the windshield wiper reservoir. Go ahead and plug that in.
3. Passenger's side fender: the first is the voltage regulator. The second black thing beside it with the vacuum hose running up to it is the MAP sensor. Unfortunately, it looks like someone cut off the wires from underneath your MAP sensor, rendering it useless.
4. The big red plug is for the EEC code reader. It supposed to be open like that. The other plug in your hand plugs into the heater blower motor. Go ahead and plug that in. (Does your fan work?) That slim gray plug - I don't know.
5. That ball of wires with the orange cap, not sure, but my guess is this is part of the computer wire harness. Part of it probably went to the starter solenoid, and the rest is anybody's guess.
6. You are pointing to the coil. It is the stock TFI ignition coil, NOT the Duraspark coil.
7. That mess of wires by the oil filter...not sure, but my guess is these are probably what plugged into your feedback carburetor and other emissions components.
8. On the carburetor, that gold open port is for the EVAP system. There should be a vacuum hose hooked up there that connects to another solenoid that connects to the charcoal canister, located down low under the battery.
9. The gold colored open port under the air cleaner is for the "fresh air" tube for the stock hot air choke to hook up to.

***Take another picture of the other side of the choke cap, so that I can see if your truck is using a fully electric choke or a "hot air" choke - that somebody has probably removed. (Does your truck start up easily?)

10. That other slim gray hookup is probably for another option your truck doesn't have, probably for cruise control or the under hood light.

Again, you do NOT have Duraspark ignition! You don't have to ask again, I am POSITIVE of that fact.

More later.

 

For your wiring woes, a factory wiring diagram will help you TREMENDOUSLY! Here's one:
Lloyds Auto Liturature available for 1985, Fordtruck, Wiring Diagrams
They're also on eBay and various other places that sell this kind of stuff, let google be your
friend.

Near the very end you asked what the red, painted tag is on the firewall (engine side)...
NumberDummy told us it's called a Buck Tag and is used exclusively on the assembly line,
don't worry about trying to read or use it.

 

Yeah the swap to DurasparkII is pricey but I didn't pay that much.


My local junkyard charges $40 for a distributor. New module is 21.00 and coil was 13.00. I was charged 2.00 for the coil holder.

Wish I was near you, I've got two spare duraspark coils and a ignition module, not to mention I know a little about what I'm doing under the hood.

 

Thanks guys! With all of your help, I am actually understanding what is wrong. And now, I fully understand I do not have a duraspark ignition.

Now... Lariet 85: "The other plug in your hand plugs into the heater blower motor. Go ahead and plug that in. (Does your fan work?) That slim gray plug - I don't know."

You want me to plug it into the heater blower motor? And by fan, do you mean like, inside? Because when I turn the AC on (I'm not sure if it actually gets cold) it blows out air. I haven't tried the heater yet.

"***Take another picture of the other side of the choke cap, so that I can see if your truck is using a fully electric choke or a "hot air" choke - that somebody has probably removed. (Does your truck start up easily?)"

...um... a what? What is a choke cap? Was it that thing on the back of the carb?

Now, for questions number 8 and 9.. Do I have to hook those up? Or are they okay the way they are?

For question number 2: When I plug it in. It doesn't work. Not too worried about that, but is it an easy fix?

So, that black box, the MAP sensor... It's useless? Should I keep it there in case? Or should I take it out? And does it look like my voltage regulator is still working?

I'm thinking sooner or later, i'm going to switch to the Duraspark II ignition. Probably in the next few months, if not sooner.

Again. Thank you guys for your help. It's nice to see my truck getting somewhere! Could never have done it without all of you guys.

 

Wicked Endings, I made a mistake on the plug for the blower motor.

The plug I thought was for the blower motor, is actually for your MAP sensor, located right beside your voltage regulator. Someone unplugged it. Go ahead and plug that back in the bottom of the sensor. The computer needs to be able to read this sensor. That is good news for you!

Fortunately for you, it appears that your truck is still mostly complete! Which means I think your best bet would be to stick with the setup you have. Your truck should be able to run pretty good as soon as we get that carburetor figured out. Yes, a DS2 swap would be beneficial for you, and I have several write-ups on how to do this, but I don't think you need to, unless you want to modify your motor.

Yes, it is a black cap on the passenger's side of the carburetor. You have an electric wire currently hooked up to it. I need to see a better picture of this to figure out what type of choke you should be running.

Don't worry about those yet. Your truck should still run ok with those unplugged for now.

Yes, an easy fix. I had you go ahead and plug that in so that you don't see it just hanging around; one less plug to worry about. Not much to worry about right now, because all it does is shoot windshield wiper cleaner on your windshield.

No, do not take it out! Plug it back in and it should work ok. Yes, it looks like your voltage regulator is hooked up correctly.

How is your truck running right now? Does it start easily? Does it stall? Is it running rich, or lean? Any funny noises?

 

Yay! This is good.

So, this black cap is that black cap looking thing on the back, yes?

(I know, in my video and my posts it seems like I know nothing... but i'm just trying to make sure I COMPLETELY understand.. Most of my questions are obvious, but I just want to make sure... )

Now, the MAP sensor has a plug that I can plug back in? Which plug would that be? The slim gray plug? Are you sure it's one of those plugs?

And you keep talking about a computer. Are you sure my computer still has a computer? They took out the computerized carb, what if they took out the computer? How will I test this? Where is it?

I hope that I put in the right one and not the wrong one and screw something up.. let's hope they aren't all the same size. XD

Now, how will I know this computer works correctly?

And about the carb. YES! I would love to get it working correctly!

 

No, it is the cream colored plug that is grouped with the big red code reader plug. It is the only one that should fit. It plugs in at the bottom of the sensor.

Go ahead and get some tape and wrap the wires that you don't need, that way you already know not to worry about where they go. This helps to keep your engine bay organized and to keep you from getting overwhelmed when you look at all those loose wires.

 

The wire doesn't look long enough... but I will try it. XD