air tool setup question
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,475
Likes: 224
From: Frequently frozen MN
air tool setup question
Hi,
I've got a sears oil type horizontal compressor and an IR composite impact that I want to start using.
I probably won't use it often, and right now I just have a plastic hose (plus a short hose because I saw something about not putting the quick disconnect right on the tool).
Anyway, I was wondering if I could operate it without any other filters, etc.
I would the oil the impact before each use, and drain my compressor tank before and after as well.
If that's not a good idea can someone tell me about a good water removal setup -- with or without an oiler. I don't think that anything too big will mount on the end of my compressor, but I'd appreciate any ideas.
Thanks,
hj
I've got a sears oil type horizontal compressor and an IR composite impact that I want to start using.
I probably won't use it often, and right now I just have a plastic hose (plus a short hose because I saw something about not putting the quick disconnect right on the tool).
Anyway, I was wondering if I could operate it without any other filters, etc.
I would the oil the impact before each use, and drain my compressor tank before and after as well.
If that's not a good idea can someone tell me about a good water removal setup -- with or without an oiler. I don't think that anything too big will mount on the end of my compressor, but I'd appreciate any ideas.
Thanks,
hj
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
A small filter can be put in the outlet of the compressor and then the quick disconnect mounted to it. I wouldn't put an oiler at the compressor, all that will do is fill your hoses with oil. Just give about three drops of oil before and after use right in the gun's air fitting and you'll be all set.
As far as water removal, you won't get good results having it mounted on the compressor. The air there is too warm and moisture will stay suspended.
As far as water removal, you won't get good results having it mounted on the compressor. The air there is too warm and moisture will stay suspended.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 530
Likes: 2
From: W. Wisc
You'd be fine. Some huge percent of people running compressors are doing just that, especially in home shops. If the compressor is portable, it can be tough to mount a seperator. Sticks out and easy to break off, probably.
You may not get much out of your impact if the compressor is too small. Impacts use a lot more air than you might think... You may end up running the impact for a couple seconds, then waiting for the comp to catchup, depending on the size and cfm of the unit.
You may not get much out of your impact if the compressor is too small. Impacts use a lot more air than you might think... You may end up running the impact for a couple seconds, then waiting for the comp to catchup, depending on the size and cfm of the unit.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,475
Likes: 224
From: Frequently frozen MN
Thanks for the info.
I think that I'm all right with the sizes.
Compressor is rated at 6.8 per min @90 psi
impact says it needs less than 5.
I am starting to wonder about putting a short hose on the impact. Means that I have to drip the oil through that hose. When I read about it, they said that putting a quick disconnect right on the impact is not a good idea.
Any thoughts?
I think that I'm all right with the sizes.
Compressor is rated at 6.8 per min @90 psi
impact says it needs less than 5.
I am starting to wonder about putting a short hose on the impact. Means that I have to drip the oil through that hose. When I read about it, they said that putting a quick disconnect right on the impact is not a good idea.
Any thoughts?
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
I've have a quick disconnect on every air tool I have, and thats a lot. Yes, I would run a water seperator. Ideally 10ft from the tank, but I've been running one right at the tank for years. Lowe's, TSC, any place that that sells compressors will have one. Water will ruin your tools quickly and you will be money ahead to go on and install the seperator, $20-$30.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,426
Likes: 5,509
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
all my air tools have the quick connector rite on the tool. i have never had any problem with any of them in the 35 years i have had them, and some were my fathers and are 60+ years old with connectors on them for all those 60+ years.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Also have a Sears portable shop compressor and installed a water separater at the outlet before the quick disconnect. Also have a quick disconnect at each tool and never had any problems. Found the 6.8 cfm works great for majority of my air shop tools; it's only when I get into auto body air tools where it becomes a problem, estimate for each min's use it can take up to 3-5 min's to recover.
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,426
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i forgot to mention i do not use an oiler. i put 3-4 drops of tool oil in the tool before using it. an oiler at the compressor will put oil in the lines, and will ruin any work if you try painting with those lines.
as far as a drier goes, i have a pop-off drain on the bottom of the tank. when the compressor shuts off, it opens the drain for 1/2 second.
i also open the drain to blow off any settled moisture before and after using the compressor, and leave it with the tank at 120-135 psi.
as far as a drier goes, i have a pop-off drain on the bottom of the tank. when the compressor shuts off, it opens the drain for 1/2 second.
i also open the drain to blow off any settled moisture before and after using the compressor, and leave it with the tank at 120-135 psi.
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Elder User
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Just fyi, i do pretty much exactly what OP is wanting to do. I have a 5hp compressor, run tools straight off it without any filter or oiler. I just drain the tank, put some oil in the tool every time i use it, everything works fine.
In the next year or so i'm upgrading big time shop wise, will have a big daddy compressor and i'll be sure to wire up a water trap and filter and all that fun stuff. But it's worked fine for me for the last 10 years, i mean....as well as a half-assed setup can work.
In the next year or so i'm upgrading big time shop wise, will have a big daddy compressor and i'll be sure to wire up a water trap and filter and all that fun stuff. But it's worked fine for me for the last 10 years, i mean....as well as a half-assed setup can work.
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
Yea, I started with one about same size as ford2go. Finally upgraded to a 3hp/60gal IR, and after 4 more years I bought a 7.5hp/80gal/23cfm two stage about a month ago. Maybe now I'll invest in a sandblaster. Funny thing, once you get a compressor, you alway's want more tools=bigger compressor. He'll be fine till he outgrows it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,347
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All my air tools have the disconnect right on the tool. Everybody else I know with air tools is the same way. I also oil the tools independantly. In line oilers are meant for stictly mechanics and other industrial applications. If you ever plan on doing any kind of painting with the compressor, all you will do with an inline oiler is to contaminate the spray gun and the paint. Not good at all. I just give the tool 3 to 4 drops of oil once in a while (depends on how much its used) But a good oil/water seperator is key to making tools last. I put them at my end runs for my piped air lines.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 0
From: Saratoga, NY
I think the whole purpose of not using the quick disconnect at the tool is because the vibration of a given tool will wear the fitting and it will leak (eventually). Ok I can believe that but what is cheaper a fitting or a hose? Every air tool manual I have bought shows to use a hose, yeah whatever.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,616
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From: Sapulpa OK
I have used air tools and worked on air tools for 40+ years and the only advice I can give is you are fine with a quick disconnect device for any rotary tool (impact, die grinder, drill). The percussion tools (rock drills, paving breakers, chipping hammers and the like) need a whip hose and the disconnect at the end of the whip. A whip should be minimum 3 feet long.
If you live in a humid area oil your tools often. Get the air as cool as possible as soon as it leaves the compressor. If you cool the air down to near ambient before it goes into the tank you will drop 60% of the moisture in the tank. Drain it often. Install water traps at the point of use. The air will remain dry as long as it remains above ambient. I know thats hard to do. If you use some other means of cooling the compressed air after the compressor, water or refrigeration to lower its temperature even below ambient, then the air will be even dryer and moisture will not condense unless the air fall below the dew point that your after-cooler brought it down to.
I live in the arid central California Valley and moisture is not a problem. I can get away with oiling my tools maybe twice a month.
If you live in a humid area oil your tools often. Get the air as cool as possible as soon as it leaves the compressor. If you cool the air down to near ambient before it goes into the tank you will drop 60% of the moisture in the tank. Drain it often. Install water traps at the point of use. The air will remain dry as long as it remains above ambient. I know thats hard to do. If you use some other means of cooling the compressed air after the compressor, water or refrigeration to lower its temperature even below ambient, then the air will be even dryer and moisture will not condense unless the air fall below the dew point that your after-cooler brought it down to.
I live in the arid central California Valley and moisture is not a problem. I can get away with oiling my tools maybe twice a month.
Last edited by fixnair; Apr 25, 2010 at 06:40 PM. Reason: Add'l info
Reads ***** rules!
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,105
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From: So.Ca./ N.E. UT
The setup I built at work.....
Used 3/4" copper pipe, 2 x filter/driers, regulator. If you decide to hard line it, be sure to slope the pipe 1/4" every foot and leave a few "down drains" with a T and ball valve at the end of the drain. The air will cool alot faster in copper pipes and having a T in the line will give the water somewhere to go. I drain the system every Friday by opening the tank and ball valves in the lines. Of course mine is setup so that when painting or ? I do not have to worry about any moisture in the air.
<a href="http://s491.photobucket.com/albums/rr272/RotunTuna/?action=view¤t=IMG00074ed.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr272/RotunTuna/IMG00074ed.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s491.photobucket.com/albums/rr272/RotunTuna/?action=view¤t=IMG00074-20100429-1531.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr272/RotunTuna/IMG00074-20100429-1531.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Used 3/4" copper pipe, 2 x filter/driers, regulator. If you decide to hard line it, be sure to slope the pipe 1/4" every foot and leave a few "down drains" with a T and ball valve at the end of the drain. The air will cool alot faster in copper pipes and having a T in the line will give the water somewhere to go. I drain the system every Friday by opening the tank and ball valves in the lines. Of course mine is setup so that when painting or ? I do not have to worry about any moisture in the air.
<a href="http://s491.photobucket.com/albums/rr272/RotunTuna/?action=view¤t=IMG00074ed.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr272/RotunTuna/IMG00074ed.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s491.photobucket.com/albums/rr272/RotunTuna/?action=view¤t=IMG00074-20100429-1531.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr272/RotunTuna/IMG00074-20100429-1531.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Last edited by rotun; Apr 30, 2010 at 11:10 AM. Reason: added pics