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You have to be careful with stuff like that since the shock mounts weren't intended to support a load. Air shocks are the worst when it comes to that but the LH shock would probably be a good compromise. I had a 1983 F-100, that the PO had put on AAL's, airshocks, and the coil springs that clamp to the axle. When airshocks are inflated and the truck is empty, the can overextend on a good bump and bend in half, BTDT.
Wow, they went all the way.....
I have the coils that clamp on the axle. I found them under a F100 that was crashed, so I snagged them. Nice thing about them, they don't touch when empty, but when adding a load, it will only squat a bit before they take over.
I thought mine were fine to. When I disconnected them and pushed them in they never opened back up.
they won't open back up unless they are gas charged.shocks have nothing to do with ride height(unless they have springs or are air shocks) their purpose is to dampen the compression and rebound of the suspension.if they are bad the truck will bounce around when you hit a bump,and handle real bad.to many times i have seen people say they need new shocks because their rear end is sagging and after replacing the shocks are P.O.'d because it didn't do any thing.
personally i prefer the the add a leaf spring,they are adjustable,so if your not hauling any thing it will have the ride height you desire and and give a decent ride, if you load the bed you can tighten up the springs for the added weight.IMO
Well i went ahead and bought a lift block kit for 30 bucks. It includes the actual block and new long U bolts/nuts.
The brand is dynachrome.
This weekend im heading over to a friends house for him to help me put em on and use his shop. I'll get some before and after shots. They are 2 inch blocks if yall wanted to know.
Thanks for all the help and comments you guys! I'll have to refer back to this when i play on replacing my shocks!!
I was taking a fake ASE style test in Auto class today,and I came to a question asking which of the following does not affect ride height.I instantly remembered this thread,and checked off D for Shocks.lol.
You have to support the frame on stands, and lower the jack until it is just supporting the axle. Have at least 2-3 inches of clearance under the tires, or remove them. Then unbolt the u-bolts, and let the jack down just enough to get the blocks in place. Install new u-bolts, and tighten. There's a bolt thru the center of the springs, and a matching hole for it sit in. The blocks should have a hole on one side, and a nipple on the other. I think you can easily figure out which way they have to go.
Just a word of caution. Factory 4wd uses a 2" block between the springs and axle. They also use a longer rear brake hose (chassis to axle) and longer shocks. Be sure to check for proper brake hose travel with the blocks in place. You certainly don't want that to break from being a bit short.
jack up truck,remove tires,put jack stands under frame,i use 2 floor jacks under the diff(one under each side) and just take the weight of the diff,unbolt the old u bolts,slowly lower the floor jacks enough to get the blocks in(be careful not to stretch the brake flex hose),put on new u bolts and torque to specs,put tires on.done. recheck the torque after a short drive,after everything settles it could become loose.
Sorry to bring up this old thread, but i have a question that im unsure of right now.
For anyone who has put block lifts on the rear of their truck please chime in!!
I put 2inch blocks on the rear awhile ago. After doing this it seems that my rearend is cockeyed and makes it appear im almost turning as i drive. But im not sure how it ended up this way or what we did wrong.
Now when we bolted the U bolt back onto the springs and axle did the axle just happen to move and we will just need to straighten it?
Or what my cousin tends to think is that because we have the blocks in and the bolt that goes through the springs isnt in the springs anymore that its causing the axle to move?
So hes saying that im going to have to take the blocks back out? If this is so how do i get around it, and how do any of yall put your blocks in than??
We at first thought that we just happened to move the axle when bolting it back up, but now that my cousin said this it has me thinkin but im unsure!!!
Well the bolt going through the spring basically holds the stack of leafs together the U-bolts should keep the springs straight, if the u-bolts are not tight to the leafs they will slide side to side. Also it helps if the nut for the bolt that holds the leafs together sticks into the center hole on the blocks so it is centered. The only other way I've seen the axle get off kilter was if the bushings were bad that hold the leafs in or if a bolt that goes through the bushing is starting to go. Hopefully this makes some sense.
Are you talking about the center pin in the springs? Those are needed to center the axle on the springs. If those are missing, it could have shifted. If they are still there, you might not have gotten the pin into the hole on the block, it takes a close eye to watch it as you are tightening the U bolts up.
Yes, im talking about the center pin that held the the leafs to the axle after we removed the old U bolts. We ended up having to weld the bottom of the bolt on since it just spins when we used the impact on it and you cant get to the bottom of it with a wrench or anything.
Now tell me if this process sounds correct.
We got the truck lifted and everything than unhooked leafs from axle so axle is sitting free on ground.Than we set in the 2inch blocks onto the axle over the pins. We then took the thick overload extra leaf and had to drill the hole slightly larger so the button on top of the lift block would fit into the overload leaf. We then lowered the frame some so we could start the U bolts. After getting U bolts started and tightened some we set the truck down and torqued the nuts to 80 lbs.
Does this process we did sound correct? Do the pins just sit inside the block and isnt suppost to go through the leafs anymore? Does it sound like we need to just undo the U bolts again and move the axle?
The pin is supposed to go through all the leafs. I have improvised before and used a grade 8 bolt and ground the head round. It has to have a nut on the other end too.