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Return Line installation

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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 11:04 PM
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Return Line installation

What do I need to do after installing the return lines to get my truck to start? Do I simply turn it over while depressing the Shraeder valve on the fuel filter or do I have to "loosen" and "bleed" each injector? If so, is there a certain order to it?

I can handle the mechanical install, but I don't know where to go from there.....I expecting that it won't start since there would be air in the lines.

Any special tricks I should know before starting this? I bought the kit from Pensacola Diesel and the Viton o-rings from McMaster Carr as suggested.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 11:35 PM
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Bleed the schrader valve then crack 2 or 3 injector lines until it is getting fuel.
Sometimes you get lucky and they crank easy without bleeding the injectors.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 01:31 AM
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Festus Hagen
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All you need to do is bleed the air at the schrader valve, it should start within a few seconds after doing so.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
All you need to do is bleed the air at the schrader valve, it should start within a few seconds after doing so.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

So....do I hold the Schraeder valve in while someone else cranks the engine, or do I crank the engine and then go and push the valve in after I stop cranking?

Thanks guys.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 08:17 AM
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Best to hold it in while someone is cranking. Remember the 20 second rule on the starter.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 09:55 AM
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Return lines

I just stumbled through changing my return lines for the first time. It was no problem but I was used to a hard starting engine. On my truck the pattern was crank for a 5 count sit for 10 and the third try it would fire up. After that I replaced the injectors with remans and it has been cranking on the first set of 5 seconds. I think I have been lucky that way.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 11:33 AM
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Personally, I have no one to help me (kicked the kids out a long time ago), so I jump the starter solenoid while holding the schrader open. (I have a remote starter button I hook up)

Make sure it's out of gear, emergency brake is set, and it's chocked... We want no members running themselves over...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 11:55 PM
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Or use a clamp on air chuck.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 02:56 AM
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In a pinch, crank for 5 seconds and bleed at the schrader. Repeat until it fires.

Jason
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 03:57 PM
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Guys, thanks for all the input so far. I received the return line installation kit from Pensacola Diesel yesterday, and I know where all the parts go except for one.....The kit came with small copper or brass washers. I removed one return line and saw where the o-rings go, but I did not see any washers.

Can anyone tell me where the washers go? I'd like to get started this weekend, but don't want to start without making sure I'm getting it all done right.

Thanks...
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BUT
I just stumbled through changing my return lines for the first time. It was no problem but I was used to a hard starting engine. On my truck the pattern was crank for a 5 count sit for 10 and the third try it would fire up. After that I replaced the injectors with remans and it has been cranking on the first set of 5 seconds. I think I have been lucky that way.
Did your kit come with copper or brass washers? If so, where do they go? I didn't see any washers when I popped one return line loose....?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 04:09 PM
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They are Injector seals, If you do not pull the Injectors you do not need them ...

Remember you bought an Injector Installation Kit ...

I'm curious as to what the hose in that Pensacola Diesel kit looks like???

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 04:11 PM
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I can answer this one, as I just redid my lines and caps yesterday. The kit is actually a R&R kit for injectors, the copper washers go under the injectors when reinstalling them.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 04:14 PM
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Festus, I ordered from Pensacola Diesel, and the hose was cloth covered rubber lines. I didn't care for it, as it was impossible to get the clamps over the cloth after cutting the pieces to length.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 04:46 PM
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Does your kit look like this:


My number one started leaking again in three weeks. I had no issues getting the clamps over the cloth covered lines.
 
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