Heater core help
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From: Sterling, Va
Heater core help
Ok i've had this problem for awhile. The heater cores keep blowing. in the past 3 years i've gone through 4 out of 6 since new. i've had both copper and alum ones i've changed the coolant, keep an eye on the acidity and keep it down but they always blow sometimes i can get 2 years out of one or a winter. there aint no rhyme or reason to it, and what really irritates me is i just finally got my cooling system totally fixed so it holds coolant. (leaky radiator) and the core blows on me haha. I mean my a/c don't work and i can deal with that but i do like my heat when i need it. Have any of yall had this problem? And any ideas what causes it and how to fix or am i just destine to keep changing them when they break.
Thanks
Thanks
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From: Sterling, Va
Sorry they get leaks. well one did seem to blow it's quark cause driving down the road coolant just started pouring out of the dash. but all of em get leaks. i've bought them from different places from chain to the store i go to when i really want quality. I'll check for voltage when i get a chance.
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From: Sterling, Va
Ok i'm gonna revive this old thing so i aint gotta start a new one. I blew another one the other day. just like before just developed a leak. I still have no idea what's causing this the only thing that i can even kinda justify is maybe my rad cap is bad and not opening up to release pressure and coolant into the over flow. i'm going to replace the core and cap and see what happen. i just don't understand it cause i don't use my heat except in the winter and maybe some times at the track. If yall got any idea's every nuts ones im open to it.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Central, Florida
Or a shutoff valve.....shut it off in the off season and turn it on when it gets chilly.....I've seen a few trucks that had that done...
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From: Sterling, Va
I do have a shut off valve there so when it does blow I ain't got coolant leaking everywhere I can't really test it to see if having it off in the summer works cause it's starting to ge cold here now. As for a restriction I have no idea where it could be rad is new when I did that I replaced all the coolant hoses te overflows always clean so I dunno it ait ier heating so I know it aint the thermastat
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From: Willow Grove, PA
Rad pressure cap tested? What pressure cap are you running? I'd put a NEW 6psi cap on but have it tested first. Your other cooling system problems could have been causing this as well. If your rad was leaking you could get air in the core and air compresses under pressure from the expanding/heating coolant. The excessive pressure from the air can cause too much pressure on the joints/solder and cause your leak in the core.
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From: Fayetteville, NC
sounds like you have a galvanic corrosion issue to me.....a very small amount of voltage will turn less noble metals into swiss cheese fast !
im a blue water boater at heart so stray current is an interest of mine......
make sure when you install the new one, that you isolate it from all sources of stray current....use teflon shims and nylon screws/bolts to mount it, if you have, or put in a ball valve, try to make sure its made from marlon, NOT brass, and find a suitable location to tap in for an anode(like the zincs on a boat) most importantly, find the source of the stray current !
on the plus side(if there is one) it sounds like your core is sacrificing itself to the "help" of other components.....
other things to do......
build a common ground location for all electronics that runs strait to the battery negative post....
check all engine/tranny/battery grounds and make sure they are clean and in good condition....
im curious to see how this one plays out, it really sounds like corrosion due to stray currents to me
im a blue water boater at heart so stray current is an interest of mine......
make sure when you install the new one, that you isolate it from all sources of stray current....use teflon shims and nylon screws/bolts to mount it, if you have, or put in a ball valve, try to make sure its made from marlon, NOT brass, and find a suitable location to tap in for an anode(like the zincs on a boat) most importantly, find the source of the stray current !
on the plus side(if there is one) it sounds like your core is sacrificing itself to the "help" of other components.....
other things to do......
build a common ground location for all electronics that runs strait to the battery negative post....
check all engine/tranny/battery grounds and make sure they are clean and in good condition....
im curious to see how this one plays out, it really sounds like corrosion due to stray currents to me
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Old radiators don't like the 13psi cap much, 6psi is safer with respect to potential leak at one of the tanks (usually the seam goes). I run 6psi in my truck, I'd like the added cooling ability the 13psi would provide but I cannot afford a brand new radiator now, and with my fan locked to the water pump and moving stupid amounts of air all the time I don't have any cooling issues at all even when loaded and pulling up a grade...
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From: Sterling, Va
i wouldn't think so cause i replaced the rad, water pump, and the lines all within this past year so i don't think it's that. i'll check again for any kind of current going through the system.
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From: Fayetteville, NC
just remember......there may be no stray current until you turn a particular device on, doesnt have to be aftermarket, could be a combination of things......
any stereo work done in past?.....cb's, check that antenna is isolated from the fender properly, thats for the radio antenna.....
check for any shorts with the glove box light, floor lighting, anything that has been added to the truck needs to have the grounds ran directly to the negative battery post.....
how do the battery posts themselves look ?....any corrosion present that may indicate a trickle current??
try driving a long metal rod down into damp earth, and connecting a meter between that and a shiny clean spot on the frame, turn every possible thing on and check meter for current......if you show current, go one by one and turn things off and keep your eye on the meter and see if you can locate a drain......try this from the body as well(cab)
you could try dropping an anode down into the radiator, they use to make them that hung from the bottom of the radiator cap, i havent seen or noticed them in awhile so im not sure if still available, but if so drop one in and see what it looks like after a week or so, any pitting at all on it and you have current issues.....
any stereo work done in past?.....cb's, check that antenna is isolated from the fender properly, thats for the radio antenna.....
check for any shorts with the glove box light, floor lighting, anything that has been added to the truck needs to have the grounds ran directly to the negative battery post.....
how do the battery posts themselves look ?....any corrosion present that may indicate a trickle current??
try driving a long metal rod down into damp earth, and connecting a meter between that and a shiny clean spot on the frame, turn every possible thing on and check meter for current......if you show current, go one by one and turn things off and keep your eye on the meter and see if you can locate a drain......try this from the body as well(cab)
you could try dropping an anode down into the radiator, they use to make them that hung from the bottom of the radiator cap, i havent seen or noticed them in awhile so im not sure if still available, but if so drop one in and see what it looks like after a week or so, any pitting at all on it and you have current issues.....