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I have a 1950 f1 with the 239 v8 and would like to get a little more performance out of it. Without tearing down the engine what are some good modifications for bolt on type performance for this engine. It is still 6volt and has a dual exhaust with stock manifolds and stock 2bl carb. thanks, chris
Nothing that will give it more performance is a bolt-on, unless you consider a blower "bolt-on". You can make it more reliable, and less trouble, with an electronic distributor, and an alternator/12v conversion. In a 2,000 lb Model A roadster, a flatty is downright perky, in a 3,100 lb pickup as big as a barn, not so much. That doesn't mean they can't be plenty of fun as-is.
"Without tearing down the engine" really limits performance mods. They don't breathe well so anything you can do to improve that helps.
Best investment for gains would be a good intake and 4 bbl carb - not over 390 cfm. They can't ingest more than that without Ross' suggestion of a blower.
Cam would be next, but that involves tearing into the engine.
I suggest driving it as stock for a time and see how you like it. Read up on flathead performance tips and join all the flathead websites you can find.
XNWell here's a thought I actually pondered doing to my flathead. They say that if you get the 8.5 compression heads from edelbrock they are a bolt on with no modifications and that increase in compression gives like an extra 25or so HP, plus a 4 barrel intake and 390 Carb, plus headers seams like it would wake it up quite a bit. Only thing is the the 4 barrel intake runs about $400, the heads are about $550, and the headers vary from $150 up. All this for only 35 or so hp. Oh yeah and the 3 or $400 bucks for the 4 barrel 390cfm Carb.
I have headers on my 48 F1 and besides bragging rights, they offer little in hp gain on a stock engine. For the actual truth about the many myths of flathead engines and performance mods you should get a copy of John Lawson's book that he just had printed.
I don't gain anything from the sale - I just know if you want the straight facts separated from the BS get his book. He's run dyno tests on all the flathead variations and records it. It is not for casual reading and it gets a bit technical, but if you want to know what an add-on does you'll find it in there.
Here's my two cents, Red's headers, MSD Ready to Run Distributor, real spark plug wires, that's for starters. If your looking for more, new intake from Navarro with a single stromberg 97 or Duel intake with stromberg 97's (4 barrels look like crap on a FH). Then Merc heads, that should get you down the road in style.
Sorry, but I calls 'em as I sees 'em. The amount of money you have to put into a flathead to get any appreciable gain in power out of it is probably more than you would spend on installing a later engine. Actually, Julie's suggestion has some merit!
HEY! At least I suggested a 351W and not a SBC 350!
If you want performance out of flatheads talk to h&h flatheads forever. They race flatheads and they have flatheads that would make a 351 W look sick. O by the way the 351w was noty the best 351. The Cleveland was it was stronger and reliable. The only thing for a W is 302 parts swap over and it gets better MPG. I rebuilt both and the 351C is my pick. With that said you can't beat the flathead. I didnt go with headers I just put some 1949 merc exh. manifolds on they are bigger so they flow alot better than the ford ones. I also put true dual flowmasters on mine. I would also say convert it to 12volt, and a electronic distriberter. If you realy want better performance for the buck put some low gears in it.
If you want performance out of flatheads talk to h&h flatheads forever. They race flatheads and they have flatheads that would make a 351 W look sick. O by the way the 351w was noty the best 351. The Cleveland was it was stronger and reliable. The only thing for a W is 302 parts swap over and it gets better MPG. I rebuilt both and the 351C is my pick. With that said you can't beat the flathead. I didnt go with headers I just put some 1949 merc exh. manifolds on they are bigger so they flow alot better than the ford ones. I also put true dual flowmasters on mine. I would also say convert it to 12volt, and a electronic distriberter. If you realy want better performance for the buck put some low gears in it.
Didn't say the 351W was the best Ford engine. I suppose there are a number of engines you could sink a barrel of money in and make them outrun a stock 351W, but wasn't referring to that scenario either. Stock or dollar for dollar put into both engines and the 351W will give better performance over a flathead every time. Lower gears? They already have about the lowest gears in them you can get. Most want a higher gear so they can get some highway speed out of it.
Didn't say the 351W was the best Ford engine. I suppose there are a number of engines you could sink a barrel of money in and make them outrun a stock 351W, but wasn't referring to that scenario either. Stock or dollar for dollar put into both engines and the 351W will give better performance over a flathead every time. Lower gears? They already have about the lowest gears in them you can get. Most want a higher gear so they can get some highway speed out of it.
No I was sayen the cleveland was a better motor stock vs stock than the Windser. You are correct the 351w is stronger than the flathead. You are also talken 239 cubes to 351 cubes that is a big differance. Now for lower gear you are correct they have low gears in them anyways. What I'm saying for better performance bang for the buck even lower gears are the way to go. I know mine has like 411 gears in it with is to low. Just as in my Saleen Mustang I went from 355 to 410 gears for about 200 bucks, and that improved my performance alot. Now I don't like the idea for an classic truck, but lower gears will give one better performance. I'm building mine with higher gears not to get highway speed out of it, but for lower RPMs and MPG.