This is the first time I have done this. Just want your opinion on the quality of information on the report. Or should I try another company that provides more detail. BTW this one was one of the cheaper reports.

http://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0...ZjViNTEy&hl=en

 

How much?
I just did it with Blacktone for $29.
My change at 207,000 miles had more iron, but less other stuff. Your higher silicone might be due to poor air filtration.
To make it harder to compare they use different criteria.
Your has soot, while my flashpoint
Blackstone says I can drive for more than the 5000 miles on Motorcraft oil. I changed to Rotella and intend to do next test at 7k.

 

The main purpose was to see if this brand of oil was doing its job. I also installed a oilguard bypass filter for longer change intervals. Im going to stretch the current oil out to 7500 miles then get it tested. And it was $35 for the report.

 

Edited: 7500, I think you'll be good there, then test again. The silicon is a bit high but not crazy.

 

I can't believe none of the oil experts have chimed in. I can't offer any advice, but I can't see you having to send oil overseas to get it tested. I'll send a few PM's and see if we can't get some better answers.

 

What causes high silicone. Im running the AFE pod filter with Petes cover. I clean it regularly. Maybe not enough oil on the filter ???

 

Have no idea what you are talking about, but something is not right here.
I am using severe duty OEM Ford filter and my silicon is 1/4 of yours. Freeways in CA are pretty clean, but occasionally I drive on construction and dump sites with lot of dust.
My Mercedes diesel allows 13,000 miles between oil changes. After I test Rotella, my next fill will be with Mobil 1 ESP formula M.

 

[quote=Kajtek1;8763538]Have no idea what you are talking about, but something is not right here.

Well I must be missing something as well. It was mentioned that the high silicone may be due to dust. I explained what type of filter system Im using and that I maintain it. Oiling the filter is supposed to catch the dust. Have I got it right so far ???

 

That what I understood the first time.
To my knowledge good air filter have nothing to do with oil.

 

silicon is also involved with the anti-foam additive and gaskets. That being said, really, really fine dust that is below the air filter medias capability will still get through. It's still well below specs and would not worry about it. When it gets flagged by the analysis is when you start to worry, think of it this way, without the analysis would you know....

 

Well put m8. I will stick with these guys and see what comes up next time round.

 

OK... here goes.

In my mind, $35 is a little high. Blackstone is near that, but there are others who are much less in the US and still provide excellent analysis and interpretations.

In that regard, Brian, you might want to check out the link and address/phone below for information on two Australian local lab services which may be cheaper than sending samples across the water. I cannot speak for their cost or quality, but the description of the services for the first one indicates that they are at least covering the correct issues.

Option 1:
Amdel - Bureau Veritas Australia - Used Oil Services

Option 2:
LUBETECH OIL ANALYSIS

Australia UNIT 1, 64 MEADOW AVENUE
QLD 4108 COOPERS PLAINS, QUEENSLAND

Phone: +61(7) 3274 5297
GEO: -27.565279, 153.027168


Next...
I've attached a PDF document which discusses contaminants in oil (ABC's of Oil Analysis). In this report, silicon is noted as being potentially from several sources, as already mentioned... air-ingested dirt, anti-foaming additives in the oil, silicon gaskets, silicone-based gasket sealer, and should only be considered an issue in the context of beign able to rule out the non-dirt related sources. If you're willing to spend some additional funds, you can always get a raw oil analysis done on brand new oil from the bottle to identify whether or not ther eis silicon in the oil to start with (this also will tell you the starting point on other oil additives so you can track depletion, etc.)

VISCOSITY: I would take note of the viscosity results which indicate that your oil has already been sheared down to a 30 weight oil for the mileage you've alreayd run, and if you run it longer, it will continue to shear down and thereby reduce the amount of effective lubricating film strength available for good lubrication when you're engine is under load.

METALS: Looking pretty good. I would not worry about the PQ Index unless it becomes noticeably higher than the Fe readings, as it would then reflect the potential for larger ferrous particles in your oil which would not be detected by the ICP or Spectrometer used for the Fe readings. Here are a couple of links where the PQ Index are discussed.
PQ index and wear particle monitoring - Topic Powered by Social Strata
Particle Counting or Ferrous Density … or Both?

ADDITIVES: Not much info here.


Also, the report does not include some potentailly useful reference information for you:
- your oil brand and weight
- TBN
- TAN
- pH


Otherwise, looks like a well-done basic report with good results for your engine's performance and condition.


Curiousity makes me ask... which oil were you running?

 

Thanks heaps Pete, thats the response I was looking for. I will look into those links with interest.
The analysis was done here in AUS.
A raw sample is a top idea. I will do that before my next change.
The weight of the oil has me worried. re extending the oil change intervals. My oil had a cSt@100 of 13 and thats the same as the pdf for the oil. Am I miss understanding this.??


This is the oil
http://www.nulon.com.au/files/produc...PB-SYN5W40.pdf

 

Brian... thanks for the link to the oil's Typical Properties info. Let me qualify what I said earlier about the viscosity.

First, given that what you're using is a full synthetic, that explains the viscosity information (synthetics inherently have a lower viscosity, yet also have higher temperature tolerances). The fact that your oil has maintained its viscosity (according to the spec info) is a good thing, and indicates no reason to worry about that issue.

However, I suspect that the oil is heavily fortified with a viscosity modifier given that the 40 degree viscosity value is as low as it is. That's how they also ended up with a high Viscosity Index (ratio of change in viscosity over a range of temperatures). Normally, a high VI is good, but when it is partially due to having a lower cold temp viscosity, the VI by itself does not carry as clear of a value in assessing the oil's capabilities. Though the SAE viscosity grade chart is a useful tool, it also hasn't been updated in quite some time to reflect newer oil technologies, and I would mark that up for the reason for my original concern being no longer being an issue.

What I see in the oil's property table that does concern me a little, though, is the low TBN value, which indicates less potential for your oil to stand up to combustion byproduct-driven oxidation contaminants. When looking at the TBN for Schaeffer, Mobil 1, Shell Rotella, and Royal Purple you will find values in the 10-12 range (using the exact same ASTM test method). Some companies will report a much higher TBN in the range of something like 15, but those values are based on "TOTAL" TBN as compared to the ones I mentioned earlier which are "EFFECTIVE" TBN.

Regardless, your engine appears to be in great shape from a wear metal standpoint. I would suggest that you look for a little better oil with a higher TBN value, especially if you want to extend your oil drains.

 

Thank you very much for two informative posts Pete. Was gunna rep ya but apparently I have to share the luv bruva