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i had a thought come to me last night, was your rig awd or 4x4 there's a big performance difference the awd has more slip differential would allow higher speed cornering(basically it would compensate a little of the problems of a light back end)
We do not have corners either. it is basically a straight line drag race through the mud (if were lucky, only really got dirty once this year.) The big trucks with nitrous can stay on top running cut boggers or paddle tires but most of the trucks will cut down to the bottom. Thats why we run skinny tires. Most of the classes except open have to run DOT tires.
I wash my truck after every mud bog to keep it from rusting out. Part of the reason not to run a box is so I could wash it easier. Washing makes it easier on parts and easier to find problems. I also check all fluids, ujoints, and grease before every mud bog.
this truck is a 75 1/2 ton so it is coils in front. last year i ran my 79 1ton so it had leaves. the 79 was still street legal and either truck would be capable of street driving. Both are basically stock trucks other than the engine and tires, as in reliability would not be an issue. The motor was built to be drivable.
we don't run nitris, or supercharger. we have a 351small block punched to 400ci with a 750 four barrel carb with an automatic trans i don't see why people give small blocks no credit we have a 302 in our 2wd and that is a beast too
i try to take it easy when i drive the 78 leaves black from 0-60 but doesn't stop that fast we never upgraded the breaks i am actually surprised there are breaks on it our family our ones to leave them off
Id be all about a big smallblock in a 2wd also. Not a nitrous or blower fan, mostly because i cant afford it. a smallblock might also work in a light 4wd, but for what we do, we generally want the torque of a big block.
Find your rules for the classes you want to run and build for that. The farther back on the frame you can mount stuff like the fuel cell and batteries the better as it gives a cantilever effect that helps transfer weight off the front end. Traction needs weight centered over the rear though, so you need to find a good compromise. Notice where my fuel cell and battery is located:
Theoretically, what would be the ideal weight distribution between axles for mud bogging? Im building a 75 f-150 with a 460 and no box. The motor and axles are in the stock location. I have removed basically all of the accessories from the truck. No grill shell, lights, anything. I am adding weight over the rear axle in place of the bed, just wondering how much i need. I know on a stock truck they are heavier in the front, but would a 50/50 split be better? Heavier in the back to keep the nose up? any ideas?
Close to 50/50 is perfect but really Id go with a little more in the rear ifyou could. Not just for weight distribution but because the rear axles are non steering non hub so can normally take the extra weight better.
Close to 50/50 is perfect but really Id go with a little more in the rear ifyou could. Not just for weight distribution but because the rear axles are non steering non hub so can normally take the extra weight better.
This is a falsehood. You can NOT make blanket numbers like 50/50 is perfect. I have helped setup one of th elocals trucks and he is about 60/40 and can't keep the front tires on the ground. I was pretty close to that and the fronts were barely skimming. Another guy locally is at 50/50 and couldn't lift a front to save his life.
Fact is, wheelies are cool to watch but don't mean your doing good. A wheelie is wasting energy to lift the front end that should be being used to push the truck forward. Too much front lift and almost everyone ends up lifting the skinning peddle and losing forward momentum too. Idea is enough weight transfer to get the front suspension to totally unload WITHOUT lifting the tires off the ground.
Paying to much attention to a number is a waste of time. pay attention to the action of the truck. NEVER add weight to achieve some mythical perfect balance you will lose. Instead as others have stated move what weight you have to carry as far back as possible (this includes the motor if possible) and work on reducing as much weight as you can forward of centerline.
This is a falsehood. You can NOT make blanket numbers like 50/50 is perfect. I have helped setup one of th elocals trucks and he is about 60/40 and can't keep the front tires on the ground. I was pretty close to that and the fronts were barely skimming. Another guy locally is at 50/50 and couldn't lift a front to save his life.
Fact is, wheelies are cool to watch but don't mean your doing good. A wheelie is wasting energy to lift the front end that should be being used to push the truck forward. Too much front lift and almost everyone ends up lifting the skinning peddle and losing forward momentum too. Idea is enough weight transfer to get the front suspension to totally unload WITHOUT lifting the tires off the ground.
Paying to much attention to a number is a waste of time. pay attention to the action of the truck. NEVER add weight to achieve some mythical perfect balance you will lose. Instead as others have stated move what weight you have to carry as far back as possible (this includes the motor if possible) and work on reducing as much weight as you can forward of centerline.
This means lose some weight if you're a fatty (I'm looking at you Karl.. :flipoff2................ (though my doctor just put me on some medicine for my back pain that is known to cause pretty severe weight gain ... so I should probably stfu about that )
This means lose some weight if you're a fatty (I'm looking at you Karl.. :flipoff2................ (though my doctor just put me on some medicine for my back pain that is known to cause pretty severe weight gain ... so I should probably stfu about that )
I'm good weight wise. When you are like me, I keep a large frame to keep my pecker in porportion with the rest of me. If I was a skinny runt like you it would look like I walk around with a telephone pole in my pocket.
Besides, my weight distribution is just about right. It likes the 35's alot, I just need to get the re-gearing and t-case change finished and it will like the 39's better