Also found the injectors and COP's the same. I was thinking about using the newer COP's but my injectors...as they are cleaner then the 2006 injectors.

 

This is a picture of the 2000 motor. What is the wire running down the middle of the block valley with a plug on the other end? The 2006 block didn't have this wire but has a bolt hole in the same location. After I identify what it is I'm thinking it will bolt to the 2006 block without any problem.

 

One more question,

How do I remove the oil cooler? It looks like a large allen wrench inside of the cooler needs to be removed. If so, what size allen wrench do I need?

 

That would be the knock sensor.
Just move it from the old engine to the new one.
JL

 

Johnny correctly identified it as knock sensor. On my 2006 block, there were two sensors, one on either side of the valley. A bit further back as I recall.

Oil cooler: I recall 10 or 12 mm.... I grabbed an el cheapo allen wrench and cut off a 2" piece from the long end. Slipped it into a socket and voila.

Intakes: I had heard there were differences in the intake tract between E's and F's, but maybe just in the pre-TB plumbing? Those sure look the same to me, and it would be expensive to make two different versions unless they absolutely needed to. I'd use the cleaner one one you transfer over all the sensors.

 

Time to start putting parts on and bring the F350 V10 back to life...

Installing a new front tranny seal and my homemade seal driver



Making room for the EBay headers...



Timing chain cover back from the hot tank, installing new seal.




Here's the oil pan back from the hot tank...no more sludge!

 

Decided to purchase a new oil pick-up tube. The original tube did clean-up in the hot tank but already order a new one, just couldn't take a chance! Just for reference, the oil pick-up tube and oil pan do NOT cross over from the E-series to F-series motors. The F-series has a longer and taller tube and the pan to accomidate the tube.

New pick-up tube and new gasket...



And here comes the pan...



Timing cover going on...got the pictures backwards. The timing cover goes on first then the pan.



Transfer of all pulleys from the 2000 motor onto the 2006 motor. This is the second MUST have items. The 2006 pulleys are 6 rib and the 2000 pulleys are 8 rib. Also made a plate when we install the engine.




And the EBay headers all wrapped and ready to install before we stab the engine tomorrow. I wrapped the babies on the bench (trash can) I have no idea how grac-o did it while on the truck?!

 

EBay header gaskets didn't line-up well with the head. I'm thinking about using Ford gaskets. Any ideas or thoughts using stock gaskets?

 

Check this thread for some more ideas https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...r-gaskets.html
I feel like I wouldn't be afraid to swap the engine with all your info and help.
Thanks Mr-Pipeline.

 

Yes,use the stock OEM MLS gaskets. They're the best for the application,and will not burn out/blow out like the aftermarket junk does.
JL

 

Thanks ZBIG'

I have detailed engine removal instructions...I mostly followed the shop manual directions with a few exceptions. I got behind updating the thread so I figure once I finish the install I'll go back and document the removal. The process hasn't been too bad because the truck is a spare vehicle and no pressure to get it back on the road. I was also blessed with friends that had an engine stand and cherry picker I could borrow and a father-in-law that's a retired mechanic. I still purchased a second engine stand to complete the process but better then purchasing two engine stands and a cherry picker. The little things cause the biggest delays. The sludge was so bad, the pan and timing cover were in the hot tank for almost two days, not a few hours like I planned on. And the exhaust gasket surprise last night. So now I'm waiting for gaskets until tomorrow.

 

I agree with Zbigbig. Nice pics and rep sent.

 

Casualty of war…the valve covers required new valve cover gaskets after spending so many hours in the hot tank. Something I didn’t consider but part of the cost when you must remove all the sludge from the previous owner. Anyway, the new FEL-PRO valve cover gasket set arrived and expected to slap the new gaskets on there and bolt on the valve covers. Not with this gasket set. Don’t get me wrong these are high quality gaskets but I had to read the directions before I could install and that took about 30 minutes on each valve cover. Here’s a few pictures.






Remove and replace each bolt with the new rubber.

 

Exhaust gasket options
<O</O
Regardless of what exhaust gaskets you choose make sure you shop around. I called the dealership for a price on the exhaust gasket price. I then decided to shop around and found several local auto part stores offering FEL-PRO exhaust gaskets, that more then likely make them for Ford, for substantially less. The dealership was 7 x more then the local auto store. I also check Rock Auto on-line but not much different then local price.

 

Shopping around ? Believe me ,with dealer's prices we have no choice.
BTW I like your workbench.