My belts are not in the correct sequence, I think. The A/C clutch snapped under the previous owner with no way to run a belt to it, so he must have rearranged the belts. My current crankshaft setup is this:
Inside sheave: alternator, on the inside alternator sheave (outer sheave is not used)
Middle sheave: power steering
Outer sheave: vacuum pump
The belt for the vacuum pump is not in line, which leads me to believe the pulley may not have been re-installed to the correct depth when the pump was replaced (it is new looking).
What is the correct setup?
Thanks!

 

The correct setup is:
- rear groove on the crank and water pump pulleys goes to the rear grove of the alternator pulley
- middle groove of the crank and water pump pulleys goes to the power steering pulley
- front groove of the crank and water pump pulleys goes to the A/C compressor
- front groove of the alternator pulley goes straight down to the vacuum pump pulley, this one is a very short belt.

So it seems to me that you just need to remove the front belt that now runs the vacuum pump from the crank and water pump pulleys, and get yourself the proper short belt to drive the vacuum pump off the alternator.

Also, for what it's worth, your current setup works great for reducing belt squeal at high rpms, however belts will need to be aligned - you either move the vacuum pump 3/4" forward to align it with the front groove of the crank and water pump pulleys, or leave the vacuum pump in its factory location but move your PS pump 3/4" forward to align it with the front groove of the crank and water pump pulleys and then drive the vacuum pump off the middle grooves of the crank and water pump pulleys (where the bet for the PS pump used to be). Since I have removed my A/C compressor and I have a single-groove for the PS pump I did just that, now I don't get that annoying pissed-off-banshee scream from my belts every time I revv up past 3000 rpms.

 

Thanks! I think I'll leave it as it is for now, but one day I intend to install A/C, so I'll change over then. The vacuum pump belt isn't too badly out of line, so it should be fine for now.
Thanks again.

 

If all the other two belts (PS pump and alternator) are aligned properly then the one that drives the vacuum pump is way off, do yourself a favor and spend the $10 on the proper short belt as when (not if) that belt you got now flies apart it may damage other stuff like radiator hoses and transmission cooling lines.

 

Fix it, its easy. I blew the belt to the vacuum pump pulling my car trailer. Didn't realize it until I was trying to stop a few miles later, all of a sudden the brake pedal was rock hard. Had to really stand on it to stop. Luckily there was no traffic around otherwise it would have been bad. The belt shot across the engine bay when it broke, I ended up finding it like six months later when I was checking out the steering gear, luckily it didn't take out anything else flying across...

 

I second the fix it. When the vac belt goes, the brakes go with it. I had mine just go and it flipped the alternator belt at the same time which cost me more aggravation than anything else.

 

Yet another prime example of how useless the low-vacuum waring switch can be - when my vacuum pump died I also got no warning, the brakes simply lost assist within several brake applies. If I had a trailer behind me I'd actually feel safer about the situation as I could use the trailer brakes to stop me faster than the truck's own brakes stop with no booster.

 

Whats the low-vacuum warning light? I don't remember if a light came on or not... I know the ABS one is constantly on... though I covered it with tape so it wouldn't annoy me any more

 

You all's advice is very well taken, but I will probably leave it alone for right now, as it is only off a very little bit. It looks liek hte previous owner tried to match the sheaves up by resetting the pulley.
Once i get it all back together, I'll make a permanent fix.
Thanks again for your observations.

 

There's no dedicated low-vacuum warning light, instead the switch just triggers the red light that also comes on when you put the parking brake on or when you blow a brake line and your pedal sinks to the floor.

 

cause we need a red light to tell us we screwed when that happens right?