Cooling systems are simple right HELP
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
Cooling systems are simple right HELP
This thing is driving me crazy. I am not getting coolant flow, I just swapped the motor since the other one had a cracked head. I cannot see coolant swirling, we took the top radiator hose off and ran it for 10 seconds no coolant came out. I pulled the T-stat it operated fine in a pot of boiling water, and I drilled an 1/8 inch hole in it so it would bleed fine. I yanked the water pump, it appears to be fine. I got the motor from a J-yard coolant left in the motor was nice and clean and green, t-stat looks clean WP looks clean. Belt was put on according to the diagram on the truck, Impellers face the same way on the old pump. What did I do wrong? I have the four port Heater control valve and am pretty sure I got all that hooked up right.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,840
Likes: 1
From: On the prairie
coolant isnt goin to come out in the first ten seconds from the upper hose since the coolant isn't hot enough to open the t-stat. run the truck for a couple minutes to get it warm enough to open and then squeeze the hose and let it go, when you do you should feel the surge of coolant flowing.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,716
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From: Boston, MA
obviously you need to wait until the tstat opens beofre it will push coolant thru the top hose. if that happens and you still don't have coolant flow then I would think there is something wrong with the water pump are you sure the impellers were not lose from the shaft...you also can remove the tstat to see if there is flow
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2009
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Furthermore, if you had to drill a hole in the t-stat, you are obviously not using an OEM t-stat. I have been through enough aftermarket ones to know that none of them are worth the trouble. Buy a Motorcraft t-stat.
But I do agree, you will not see movement in the first 10 seconds. It can take a couple minutes for the t-stat to open.
But I do agree, you will not see movement in the first 10 seconds. It can take a couple minutes for the t-stat to open.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
I removed the T-stat and can see flow through the radiator fill hole no problem. I think my whole issue all along has been a guage issue. Normally It registers 1/3 the way up at normal temps. It is now at 1/2 and the heater air is luke warm with no tstat. It hit 3/4 and the t-stat still wasn't opening when it was installed. Did they use diffrent sending units it some of the years? I used the wiring harness on the replacement motor and it was missing an A/C plug (so i reused the original a/c alternator harness) And there are two coolant sensors on the 5/8ths hose and only one plug on the replacement harness. I am currently connected to the sensor closest to the t-stat housing.
The temp guage in the car registers off the sensor in the block correct? not the ones in the heater hose?
The original motor, got overheated and died, 2nd motor from the J-yard had some issue so it consumed water and eventually overheated and cracked the head. So this is the third motor we are a little paranoid watching that guage.
The temp guage in the car registers off the sensor in the block correct? not the ones in the heater hose?
The original motor, got overheated and died, 2nd motor from the J-yard had some issue so it consumed water and eventually overheated and cracked the head. So this is the third motor we are a little paranoid watching that guage.
Last edited by Gary E; Apr 8, 2010 at 12:44 PM. Reason: clarification
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
its a 97 with AC, 2.3 liter.
I am not sure what the J-yard motor came from, those were the only diffrences I saw was one less connector to the two sensors in the heater hose, and the lack of an AC plug other than that it all went together fine.
I am not sure what the J-yard motor came from, those were the only diffrences I saw was one less connector to the two sensors in the heater hose, and the lack of an AC plug other than that it all went together fine.
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
Well I swapped the temperature sending unit, it looked the same as the junk yard engine one like this. 
The one on my old engine had a plastic "bell" but it was broken off so i could not try it.
The temp goes up 3/4 of the way and sits rock steady. Engine does not feel super hot, T-stat housing with the IR gun is 180 degrees. Radiator cap was 95 degrees and the system did not puke when the cap was removed hot idleing.
The one on my old engine had a plastic "bell" but it was broken off so i could not try it.
The temp goes up 3/4 of the way and sits rock steady. Engine does not feel super hot, T-stat housing with the IR gun is 180 degrees. Radiator cap was 95 degrees and the system did not puke when the cap was removed hot idleing.
Last edited by Gary E; Apr 13, 2010 at 10:16 AM. Reason: clarification
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,263
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From: BC Canada
The IR temps tell the true story, your gauge is not registering correctly. I would be happy running at those temps.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
Sure would be nice to have the guage work properly though I called the salvage yard and the motor came out of a 95 ranger. did they change the temp sending unit in 97-98 or anything like that?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
ok finally got it to warm up, we had the a/c on hot idling got the system to pressurize upper hose nice and hot, t-stat housing at 200 degrees guage sitting rock steady at 3/4 way up, should I be concerned? I imagine its the stock t-stat at 192 degrees Should I switch to a 180 t-stat?