351w Water Pump
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351w Water Pump
Hi all I have a 1997 Ford F250 HD. It has a 351w. I have been using a little coolant here and there and believe the cause to be the water pump as I see seeping around the top of the seal. I plan on tackling the job myself to learn how to do it. I have seen bits and pieces of instructions out there but is there anyone that can point me in the direction of detailed instructions on this for my peace of mind.
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First put a pressure tester on it & make sure its the water pump , the water pump is fairly easy if you don't have a problem with the bolts coming out , i would pick up a shop manuale , there good to have & will help alot ....Lew
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Water Pump
Where is a good place to get a shop manual, I looked at the Haynes and was not impressed. I will also try the pressure test. I cleaned the coolant from where it was collecting at drove it to work less than 2 miles and it was back. I notice it on the back of the left of the water pump onto of the motor below the coolant hose going to the motor. I am going to try and take a decent picture of it today and maybe that will help me get more info. I still intend on replacing the water pump as the truck has 190,000+ miles on it.
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Thanks for all the help. I found a small leak under the thermostat housing. I pulled it put a new thermostat in and replaced the gasket. No More leak. Now If can figure out why my heat is only blowing out of the defroster and not switching to the other vents ill be golden.
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Ok well I checked the vacum lines all appear to be good. Afterwards and I dont know what its called but under the dash I manually moved the cyclinder that swithed the blower to the vent but the controls will still not work. This is something I am completely clueless about. Odd that this happened after putting a new thermostat in.
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From: Des Moines
You sure you didn't accidentally knock something loose or maybe missed something when you were putting things back together after the thermostat? I'd advise tracing the vacuum supply line for the controls - it should be a single line entering the firewall near the blower motor housing - backwards. Start from the firewall, then trace it back until you've checked the entire system. If there's any rubber lines make sure they're not cracked. I know you said you already checked the lines, but it never hurts to double check.
It has to be a vacuum leak somewhere- that's what controls the actuator that controls the flap. Unless the actuator itself has gone bad.
It has to be a vacuum leak somewhere- that's what controls the actuator that controls the flap. Unless the actuator itself has gone bad.
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