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HELP…Strange oil pressure behavior

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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 12:13 AM
  #16  
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Did you consider removing the oil pan abd cleaning it out? Even if you have to lift the engine to do it it might solve the problem. The 5.4 that I removed from my Navigator was just as nasty as yours and I bought it with a broke engine believing it was a leaking injector because the engine supposedly just wouldn't start and there was a lot of fuel in the oil and past experience had shown me that this could happen. I got it home and finally found a broken intake cam chain and an engine that looked like the oil hadn't been changed for over 100,000 miles, just like yours. I opted for a used engine and it is in and running fine. In your case I would recommend cleaning the pan first and if the screen is clogged you may have no further problem for a long while. If the screen is the problem and you decide to clean it out, i suggest that you get a couple of gallons of diesel fuel and clean the top end also before reassembly followed up with frequent oil changes for 6 months to a year, which would provide continuous cleaning of the oil passages. Another option while you are in the crankcase would be to replace the rod and main bearings as well as the related bolts that are a 1 use item.
Good luck with it and keep us posted on your results.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 09:48 PM
  #17  
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There could be life in the old girl after all. Under the circumstances I didn’t have much to loose so I add a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil, the same stuff that started this mess. Anyway, things are improving! I can run down the freeway with the O/D off running about 3k rpm and it’s now holding oil pressure of 55 psi. If I increase the rpm to 3.5-4k I can see the oil pressure begin to drop. This is much improved from where I started about a week ago. I stopped by a dealership and talked directly with a mechanic that normally handles V10 repair. Gave him the whole story and he thinks it’s a partially clogged oil pump screen. He said, when running the truck hard the flow demand increases and the oil will begin to heat up and act more viscous causing the pump to starve itself at high rpm operation. Also, with the condition getting better the more I drive…he thinks I should pull the pan and clean the pickup screen. What do you guys think? Has anyone pulled the pan in the truck?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 10:31 PM
  #18  
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
Originally Posted by Mr-Pipeline
There could be life in the old girl after all. Under the circumstances I didn’t have much to loose so I add a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil, the same stuff that started this mess. Anyway, things are improving! I can run down the freeway with the O/D off running about 3k rpm and it’s now holding oil pressure of 55 psi. If I increase the rpm to 3.5-4k I can see the oil pressure begin to drop. This is much improved from where I started about a week ago. I stopped by a dealership and talked directly with a mechanic that normally handles V10 repair. Gave him the whole story and he thinks it’s a partially clogged oil pump screen. He said, when running the truck hard the flow demand increases and the oil will begin to heat up and act more viscous causing the pump to starve itself at high rpm operation. Also, with the condition getting better the more I drive…he thinks I should pull the pan and clean the pickup screen. What do you guys think? Has anyone pulled the pan in the truck?


That's what I said in the post just before this one.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 06:27 PM
  #19  
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Based on everything I've heard, I'd say the plugged oil screen is definitely worth checking out! Or... just give it a bit more time. The info indicates the blockage may be decreasing? Maybe it was just tar like sludge that the various cleaners/detergents are breaking down?

If you choose to check inside, I'm thinking you can pull the pan without major surgery on the 4x4....

FYI: I was re-sealing (misc. weeping gaskets) a late 80's BMW with over 500K miles and one of the cam chain guides had broken up and there were literally hundreds of pieces of plastic in the pickup, all nicely rounded off from years of churning around in there! Replaced the chain guide, oil pump, and all gaskets and she's running like a champ. Good for another 500K!

Keep us updated! I'm hoping to hear this come out well. She's gotta be loving all the personal care and attention!

I do have to point out the mechanic was dead wrong about "oil getting more viscous" as it heats up. It does not, it will actually get thinner or less viscous. However, he is correct in that the pump speed is directly related to crank speed, so it will be trying to pump more as rpm go up. A partially blocked screen will not let it get as much as it wants.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 06:43 PM
  #20  
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I’ve lost count on the number of oil changes, I think it’s 6 so far. The oil is so clean I can’t read it on the dipstick, I lay a piece of paper across the dipstick to find the oil level. The last time I returned from the parts store with more oil and filters, my wife said I should just buy a barrel…it would be cheaper. I lowered my head and just kept walking!
 
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 07:20 PM
  #21  
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
Originally Posted by Mr-Pipeline
I’ve lost count on the number of oil changes, I think it’s 6 so far. The oil is so clean I can’t read it on the dipstick, I lay a piece of paper across the dipstick to find the oil level. The last time I returned from the parts store with more oil and filters, my wife said I should just buy a barrel…it would be cheaper. I lowered my head and just kept walking!
I thought by your screen nane that you aleady owned one.

In all reality, even though it seems to be cleaning up , you should get that pan off for an inspection, either lift the engine enough to get to it or remove whatever is needed to do it from underneath. Either way it's a pain in the a$$. These things have a nasty habit of failing when you need it most. It's a law, you've heard of Murphy haven't you? In any case I hope it all works out for you, you may never have another problem.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 11:52 AM
  #22  
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Yes just the wrong flavor of oil!


I was teetering back and forth if I should pull the pan or take a risk. Not worth the risk, I’m going to pull the pan and have a look. I sure wish I could find a thread that someone has tackled this endeavor before and had all the tips and tricks. I’m great at following directions but not so good at plowing new ground with my limited tool collection and limited space (driveway) I might talk with a few local mechanics or try the dealership to handle this job. I hate to spend big bucks just to inspect and clean the oil pan and pick-up screen, but not sure I’ve got the space or tools.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 01:44 PM
  #23  
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
Originally Posted by Mr-Pipeline
Yes just the wrong flavor of oil!


I was teetering back and forth if I should pull the pan or take a risk. Not worth the risk, I’m going to pull the pan and have a look. I sure wish I could find a thread that someone has tackled this endeavor before and had all the tips and tricks. I’m great at following directions but not so good at plowing new ground with my limited tool collection and limited space (driveway) I might talk with a few local mechanics or try the dealership to handle this job. I hate to spend big bucks just to inspect and clean the oil pan and pick-up screen, but not sure I’ve got the space or tools.
I believe you are doing the right thing. I have just looked at my service manual and I think a good shop or the dealer is your best option as Ford shows the use of several special service tools needed to do the job. If you post your email or PM it to me I'll email the service details to you from my service manual so you'll know what you are facing if you do it yourself
 
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 02:08 PM
  #24  
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Thanks,
PM on the way. I'll update the thread either direction I go. Thanks everyone.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 07:51 PM
  #25  
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What kind of special tools? Something to remove suspension or steering parts?

I had to swap the pans between my two engines and it was simple - nothing unusual comes to mind. Just a bunch of bolts requiring 10mm socket and torque wrench. Of course, both engines were out and on engine stands... So I can only assume there is something preventing the pan from coming down?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 10:37 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mwsF250
What kind of special tools? Something to remove suspension or steering parts?

I had to swap the pans between my two engines and it was simple - nothing unusual comes to mind. Just a bunch of bolts requiring 10mm socket and torque wrench. Of course, both engines were out and on engine stands... So I can only assume there is something preventing the pan from coming down?
The tools mentioned in the service manual include the engine lift adaptor, trans jack and adaptor, crane/cherry picker and a "J Hook" device for lifting the front of the engine. All the rest seems pretty basic and straight forward.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #27  
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UPDATE:

I haven’t fallen asleep just decided to go in a different direct. The original V10 is still running great I’m able to run around town and even took a 50 mile drive the other day without any oil pressure problems. However, when I <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><st1:PersonName>work</st1:PersonName> the engine (as before) and hold the RPM’s above 3,500 I begin to observe the oil pressure to slowly drop. I still believe the problem is a plugged oil pickup screen but decided to go all out and replace the motor. I found a great deal on a low mileage/newer motor for a great price. During the motor swap (you can follow in another tread) I’ll need to pull the pan. At that time I will update this tread on my findings and take a few pictures.
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 06:15 PM
  #28  
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Here's a comparision picture of what regular oil changes vs. random oil changes. I purchased a used motor to perform a motor swap. I'll make sure I post a comparision photo of the oil pickup screens. If your interested in the motor swap you can follow it in another tread. I'll update this one more time to close the book on this tread.



2000 V10 that didn't have enough TLC or oil changes.



2006 V10 with a loving family and regular oil changes.



Should have the original motor pulled next week. I'll post more pics of sludge. Just think...this was after 5 oil flushes with both MMO and SeaFoam.



----
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 09:31 PM
  #29  
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The engine in the top photo is in the frame so I assume that is your old engine that had all the oil changes and flushes. Correct?

The engine in the bottom photo is much cleaner and must be your new(er) engine. Correct?

If my assumptions are correct it looks like you will have a good engine there. I would get some solvent like Safety Kleen from Advance A.P and give as much of it as I could a good cleaning, both top and bottom, with a parts cleaning brush and then use a good synthetic oil like Mobil 1 or Castrol only and the engine should give you at least 250,000 miles of service and maybe more.
Good luck with it.
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 10:07 PM
  #30  
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And the winner is...plugged pick-up screen in the oil pan as many of you predicted. This is what remains after 5 oil flushes and a bottle scrub brush through the drain plug. The half clean portion on the oil pickup was done while in the truck. I purchased a small bottle brush attempting to clean the screen. As you can see it didn't work. If you read this thread you will see that I purchased a used replacement motor after I pulled the valve cover and discovered the sludge in this engine. I had to pull the old motor and wanted to put an end to this thread. The moral of the story is simple...change your oil on a regular basis and you won't need to play with oil flush products. If you don't you might find a mess like I did!


Oil pickup screen from my 2000 V10






Oil pan from my 2000 V10



Under the valve cover


Picture of the 2000 V10 before it was pulled from the truck


I guess that's it. If you would like to see the motor swap you can follow along in my other thread.
 
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