finding #
finding #
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
On a manual trans, the ID tag is bolted to the rear of the case. On the rear end, if a Ford 9" (F100), the ID tag is at 5 o'clock under one of the bolts that holds the carrier to the housing.
If a Dana 44, Dana 60 or Dana 70, the ID tag is located under one of the bolts that holds the inspection cover on, but...
Today, do not be surprised if some/all of these tags are missing.
The Warranty Plate, located on the left door face below the latch, has the TRANS and AXLE codes on it. The engine code is the 4th digit of the VIN.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Ppl went to wrecking yards, removed the 4V intake manifold from 1965/71 390 passenger cars and installed it on their 360.
Ford didn't offer a 4V with the 390 (only) in F100/350's until 1974, and it was an option...so most trucks do not have it.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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i went out and did some looking heads say c6aer , intake- 's' c6ae ,rear end-4 10 dota-ar 603495-1 i also checked the stroke and i got 3.875 but obviously it slipped . should be a 390 though couldn't see any # on tranny but the pan is square with a little missing off one corner . do you know if those heads have the hardened seats. oh and the door tag had 131 k f254 g 4 g 24 170 4100 74 dose this make any since i for got to write what # mint what i will stop and look on my way home from work . thanks agin for your help i do appreciate all that you have done. any recommendation on what to do for towing and midrange power rebuild? not good with computers!!!!
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
i went out and did some looking heads say C6AE-R, intake- C6AE-S.
rear end-4 10 dota-ar 603495-1.
Ford ID number: DOTA-AR / Dana ID number: 603495-1. See 24 below.
i also checked the stroke and i got 3.875 but obviously it slipped, should be a 390 though.
390 stroke: 3.78" / 410/428 stroke: 3.98."
Couldn't see any # on tranny but the pan is square with a little missing off one corner.
It's a C6.
do you know if those [C6AE-R] heads have the hardened seats?
Nope, because the first year for hardened valve seats was 1972. The cyl head casting number would be: D2TE-AA.
the door tag had: 131 / K / F254 / G 4 / G / 24 / 6900 / 170 4100 / 74
any recommendation on what to do for towing and midrange power rebuild?
Nope, engine building is not my forte.
rear end-4 10 dota-ar 603495-1.
Ford ID number: DOTA-AR / Dana ID number: 603495-1. See 24 below.
i also checked the stroke and i got 3.875 but obviously it slipped, should be a 390 though.
390 stroke: 3.78" / 410/428 stroke: 3.98."
Couldn't see any # on tranny but the pan is square with a little missing off one corner.
It's a C6.
do you know if those [C6AE-R] heads have the hardened seats?
Nope, because the first year for hardened valve seats was 1972. The cyl head casting number would be: D2TE-AA.
the door tag had: 131 / K / F254 / G 4 / G / 24 / 6900 / 170 4100 / 74
any recommendation on what to do for towing and midrange power rebuild?
Nope, engine building is not my forte.
The same heads and intake manifold were also used on 1966/67 Mercury Parklane 410 & 1966/67 Galaxie/LTD/Thunderbird/Mercury Monterey/Montclair 428. Stroke: 3.98."
131" Wheelbase.
K = Empire Green.
F254 = F250 2WD / 6900 lbs. GVWR
G 4: G = Medium Green Vinyl & Medium Green Body Cloth-Your truck has the optional Explorer Package // 4 = Styleside Pickup, Bench Seat.
G = C6 Cruise-O-Matic.
24 = Dana 60 Rear Axle / 4.09-1 / non Limited Slip / 5200 lb. Rear Axle Capacity.
6900 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.
170 net HP @ 4,100 RPM (this relates to the original 360 2V).
74 = Seattle WA Ford District Sales Office, where the original selling dealer ordered the truck from.
I suggest you measure the stroke again.
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thanks for the info, it dose help a lot the seat is green and cloth that makes me want to keep it the way it came, stock colors any ways . it dose say explorer on the jokey box. i will measure the stroke vary carefully. wont get to that tell this weekend. could you tell me if these parts are any good besides the heads needing hardened seats.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Hey Sam71,
I like your truck.
- If you don't think the motor has been gone through, then NumberDummy has excellent info. If you want to know for sure if it is a 360 or 390 then you need to inspect the crank. If you plan to have the oil pan off for any reason (it's not a fun task) - look at the 3rd counterweight from the nose of the crank. It will have a casting mark on the flat. If it's a 2T it is a 360, if it's a 3U then it's a 390.
- I have built a couple FE motors and I really like the Competition Cam with 494 lift, 268 duration. It performs well and creates good power. Caution: It may not pass emission testing (if you have that in your state) without some custom carb jetting/tuning. An addition of the Pertronix ignition system (does away with the distributor points system) will help with the power.
Good luck - Have fun with your Ford!
I like your truck.
- If you don't think the motor has been gone through, then NumberDummy has excellent info. If you want to know for sure if it is a 360 or 390 then you need to inspect the crank. If you plan to have the oil pan off for any reason (it's not a fun task) - look at the 3rd counterweight from the nose of the crank. It will have a casting mark on the flat. If it's a 2T it is a 360, if it's a 3U then it's a 390.
- I have built a couple FE motors and I really like the Competition Cam with 494 lift, 268 duration. It performs well and creates good power. Caution: It may not pass emission testing (if you have that in your state) without some custom carb jetting/tuning. An addition of the Pertronix ignition system (does away with the distributor points system) will help with the power.
Good luck - Have fun with your Ford!
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2003
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Good point NumberDummy. It appears it's a daily driver and the oil pan is a crappy job to say the least...
- a wood dowel in the plug hole and a sharpie will do. TDC make a mark on the dowel, bottom of the stroke make a mark, measure - you're golden...
- a wood dowel in the plug hole and a sharpie will do. TDC make a mark on the dowel, bottom of the stroke make a mark, measure - you're golden...
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so i went out to my dads house and measured the stroke, #1 tdc and #4 bdc i did this 3 times and got 4 in every time. now that was with just a tape measurer and im just a pipe fitter. i do plane on a complete rebuild far as i know it dosent run i just got it for a 100$. he said it just died and dident do any thing with it. that was 1.5 years ago, and it dident have good oil psi it was like 10-20psi. on the intake i seen some other #'s 425-G is that just the date code? oh and can any one show me what the stock rims looked like with hub cap?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
so i went out to my dads house and measured the stroke, #1 tdc and #4 bdc i did this 3 times and got 4 in every time. now that was with just a tape measurer and im just a pipe fitter. i do plane on a complete rebuild far as i know it dosent run i just got it for a 100$. he said it just died and dident do any thing with it. that was 1.5 years ago, and it dident have good oil psi it was like 10-20psi.
on the intake i seen some other #'s 425-G is that just the date code?
Doesn't mean diddly-squat.
on the intake i seen some other #'s 425-G is that just the date code?
Doesn't mean diddly-squat.
Stroke 410/428: 3.98"
