Valve Spring Install Question
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Valve Spring Install Question
I will be installing new valve springs shortly. There are 2 ways to keep the valves from dropping.
1) Hand crank the engine until the cyclinder is at TDC.
2) Apply air pressure through the GP hole.
If I decide to use air pressure how much PSI is needed to keep the valves from dropping?
1) Hand crank the engine until the cyclinder is at TDC.
2) Apply air pressure through the GP hole.
If I decide to use air pressure how much PSI is needed to keep the valves from dropping?
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
I will probaly try both ways to see which is faster.
I gutted an old GP and will try tapping it for a fitting.
Also if I try the cylinder at TDC method and go by firing order I will only have to turn the crank 45 degrees to get the next cylinder to TDC.
Is there a mark on the damper pulley that I can line up with the CPS for TDC on #1?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 274
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Thanks Roland.
I will probaly try both ways to see which is faster.
I gutted an old GP and will try tapping it for a fitting.
Also if I try the cylinder at TDC method and go by firing order I will only have to turn the crank 45 degrees to get the next cylinder to TDC.
Is there a mark on the damper pulley that I can line up with the CPS for TDC on #1?
I will probaly try both ways to see which is faster.
I gutted an old GP and will try tapping it for a fitting.
Also if I try the cylinder at TDC method and go by firing order I will only have to turn the crank 45 degrees to get the next cylinder to TDC.
Is there a mark on the damper pulley that I can line up with the CPS for TDC on #1?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Thanks Roland.
I will probaly try both ways to see which is faster.
I gutted an old GP and will try tapping it for a fitting.
Also if I try the cylinder at TDC method and go by firing order I will only have to turn the crank 45 degrees to get the next cylinder to TDC.
Is there a mark on the damper pulley that I can line up with the CPS for TDC on #1?
I will probaly try both ways to see which is faster.
I gutted an old GP and will try tapping it for a fitting.
Also if I try the cylinder at TDC method and go by firing order I will only have to turn the crank 45 degrees to get the next cylinder to TDC.
Is there a mark on the damper pulley that I can line up with the CPS for TDC on #1?
Also you don't have to worry about whether the engine is at top dead center because as soon as you apply air pressure to that cylinder, that piston goes straight to bottom dead center. Rather quickly I might add.
Also, you will find that the retainers sometimes stick to the keepers and when you compress the spring, it just opens the valve.
Take a soft hammer (plastic or brass) and rap the shoulder of the retainer to dislodge the "set" between the retainer and the keepers, then compress the spring.
The 150 psi will hold the valve up just fine. Just don't unplug that air hose until you have it all back together or the valve will drop into the cylinder!
I have a brand new set of rocker arms and push rods if you are interested, send me a PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
I don't want this to happen. 
Thanks for the advice and offer Dan. 
PM on the way.
Same here, it's a very good method.
If you already have a fitting for that glow plug hole, then using shop air is very easy.
Also you don't have to worry about whether the engine is at top dead center because as soon as you apply air pressure to that cylinder, that piston goes straight to bottom dead center. Rather quickly I might add.
Also, you will find that the retainers sometimes stick to the keepers and when you compress the spring, it just opens the valve.
Take a soft hammer (plastic or brass) and rap the shoulder of the retainer to dislodge the "set" between the retainer and the keepers, then compress the spring.
The 150 psi will hold the valve up just fine. Just don't unplug that air hose until you have it all back together or the valve will drop into the cylinder!
I have a brand new set of rocker arms and push rods if you are interested, send me a PM.
If you already have a fitting for that glow plug hole, then using shop air is very easy.
Also you don't have to worry about whether the engine is at top dead center because as soon as you apply air pressure to that cylinder, that piston goes straight to bottom dead center. Rather quickly I might add.
Also, you will find that the retainers sometimes stick to the keepers and when you compress the spring, it just opens the valve.
Take a soft hammer (plastic or brass) and rap the shoulder of the retainer to dislodge the "set" between the retainer and the keepers, then compress the spring.
The 150 psi will hold the valve up just fine. Just don't unplug that air hose until you have it all back together or the valve will drop into the cylinder!
I have a brand new set of rocker arms and push rods if you are interested, send me a PM.
PM on the way.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Timing mark on the damper pulley highlighted with chalk (reflection in mirror)
and aligned with the timing indicator on the CPS. Is #1 cylinder now at TDC?
and aligned with the timing indicator on the CPS. Is #1 cylinder now at TDC?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 2
From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
looks close..to be sure..stick a coat hanger down the GP hole hitting the top of the piston.. then role the motor back and forth till the hanger reaches the top and doesnt role back down..
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
I thought this would indicate #1 TDC, but wasn't sure. Haven't started work on this project yet. I'm going to use a plastic drinking straw as an indicator. Hopefully when I get to this point I'll have a spotter.
I don't think it will roll with the serpetine belt in place.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Thanks Ron.
I thought this would indicate #1 TDC, but wasn't sure. Haven't started work on this project yet. I'm going to use a plastic drinking straw as an indicator. Hopefully when I get to this point I'll have a spotter.
I don't think it will roll with the serpetine belt in place.
I thought this would indicate #1 TDC, but wasn't sure. Haven't started work on this project yet. I'm going to use a plastic drinking straw as an indicator. Hopefully when I get to this point I'll have a spotter.
I don't think it will roll with the serpetine belt in place.
Really nothing to worry about. Let it roll and let the air hold the valves up.
I've done it that way on VW engines, replacing valve stem seals for 20+ years now.
Pressureize through the spark plug hole and the engine jumps pretty good as the 150 psi rams the piston down.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
If you pressureize a cylinder with the rockers removed and the crankshaft is 1/2 degree off of TDC, it WILL roll.
Really nothing to worry about. Let it roll and let the air hold the valves up.
I've done it that way on VW engines, replacing valve stem seals for 20+ years now.
Pressureize through the spark plug hole and the engine jumps pretty good as the 150 psi rams the piston down.
Really nothing to worry about. Let it roll and let the air hold the valves up.
I've done it that way on VW engines, replacing valve stem seals for 20+ years now.
Pressureize through the spark plug hole and the engine jumps pretty good as the 150 psi rams the piston down.
I couldn't resist.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
I'll feel more comfortable knowing the piston is at TDC vs under pressure and possibly BDC.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 2
From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
smart azz............ Happy Easter Robin...