IPR ?
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Freshman User
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IPR ?
so i got the new ipr in the truck on tuseday drove it to work wed did some running around to day did an oil change
and it dies again what could this be
coud it be a bad pcm ? , shorted out wire maybe
i can tell when it is about to happen its always when im on the highway doin around 65mph
when its about to go it feels week and starts to make a lite ticking nosie then it gets worse and dies right out
im gunna check the wiring to the pcm tomorrow
and it dies again what could this be
coud it be a bad pcm ? , shorted out wire maybe
i can tell when it is about to happen its always when im on the highway doin around 65mph
when its about to go it feels week and starts to make a lite ticking nosie then it gets worse and dies right out
im gunna check the wiring to the pcm tomorrow
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,773
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From: Texas Coast
Check your tach for movement when cranking. No movement replace the CPS. Some movement may still be CPS.
Check to ensure that there are no connection issues at the cps. Check HPOP level and ensure that its a 1/2 or so from the top.
Check to ensure that there are no connection issues at the cps. Check HPOP level and ensure that its a 1/2 or so from the top.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
WAG the IDM is toast ...
Although the mod sounds good the components in the IDM are rated at 160 volts (capacitors). As our trucks age so do the tolerances on compoents.
Hope it is something simple though.
Although the mod sounds good the components in the IDM are rated at 160 volts (capacitors). As our trucks age so do the tolerances on compoents.
Hope it is something simple though.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: West Texas
What you describe is ecactly what mine feels like when a tank went dry. Have you tried switching tanks when it does it yet?
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Ashland City, TN
Well, with what Rick and Dan have said, I would open up the fuel bowl and check that, and clean the FPR system.
If the bowl is empty when you open the cover, you'll def know your problem then.
I know CPS does weird things, the ticking part is the part that I don't about.
Could be an algea problem, *shrugs*
If the bowl is empty when you open the cover, you'll def know your problem then.
I know CPS does weird things, the ticking part is the part that I don't about.
Could be an algea problem, *shrugs*
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it dose move
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its not the first time its done this tho and when i change the ipr it runs fine for a few months then it dies
i have another idm and tryed it aswell and still didnt run
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its never gone dry before and no its the same with either tank
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Well, with what Rick and Dan have said, I would open up the fuel bowl and check that, and clean the FPR system.
If the bowl is empty when you open the cover, you'll def know your problem then.
I know CPS does weird things, the ticking part is the part that I don't about.
Could be an algea problem, *shrugs*
If the bowl is empty when you open the cover, you'll def know your problem then.
I know CPS does weird things, the ticking part is the part that I don't about.
Could be an algea problem, *shrugs*
ill check the bowl
im leaning twards the ICP
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,773
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From: Texas Coast
Next time it dies, stop and pull the HPOP plug and see if the level has dropped in it. It should be about a 1/2 from the top.
Next time its running and you have it hot locate the map sensor electrical connector above the ac unit at the firewall where the hose routes from the turbo boost pressure and un plug the connector. If the truck runs beter then the map snsor is either bad or the small hole at the hose to turbo connection is fouled out or the sensor is fouled out.
One thing to ask does it fire right back up and run like nothing happened afterwards?
I am leaning towards a gap clearance when hot at the CPS. Also do you know your frp pressure at idle?
I would check for codes, mine had codes with no flashing WTS
Next time its running and you have it hot locate the map sensor electrical connector above the ac unit at the firewall where the hose routes from the turbo boost pressure and un plug the connector. If the truck runs beter then the map snsor is either bad or the small hole at the hose to turbo connection is fouled out or the sensor is fouled out.
One thing to ask does it fire right back up and run like nothing happened afterwards?
I am leaning towards a gap clearance when hot at the CPS. Also do you know your frp pressure at idle?
I would check for codes, mine had codes with no flashing WTS