I recently a repair to a 2003 F 350 changed filters basic maintanance stuff
after finishing work put about 30 miles on vehicle for a test drive, all was well

next day fired rig up warmed up and drove after a short distance vehicle died and wouldnt restart!
towed vehicle back to the shop and began investigating as to why?

turned out that primary fuel filter was the cause, reinstalled original fuel filter and vehicle started and ran flawlessly

Read up on filters found out the factory filter has a air bleed hole ,

called the aftermarket filter guys and asked why and what could be going on, he informed me that #1 why would you put a hole in the filter??
after reading motorcraft info that states wihtout this bleed hole only half of the filter is used

The after market rep indicated that this is BS and actually their filter is better and uses more than the factory filter!!

who am i to believe? regardless the used factory filter is in the rig (primary) and its working just fine

whats going on? did I have air trapped in the system that didnt cause problems until the vehicle sat over night and restared the next day and driven for a short distance?

 

Was this a 6.0 or a 7.3? I will assume 6.0.

What brand was the new filter? Around here we swear that you must use only OEM filters, which means Racor (the OEM), Motorcraft, or International. If you used any "will fit" filter, that is probably the problem.

Getting air in the system is a problem when changing filters, but if you drove 30 miles I think we can eliminate that. But regardless, when you install new filters, turn your "key on-no start-key off" for 30 seconds. Repeat 3 to 6 times, then start the truck. This purges the air before it can enter the fuel rails.

 

Personally I wouldn't be trusting the aftermarket filter guy. Like Bill said stick with the OEM filters for fuel as well as oil & air. Follow the link below for the proper fuel filter change procedure:

http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/D...ence-Guide.pdf

 

Little tricky trick...

When you change fuel filters in the 6.0, you got to purge the air out of it.... that requires turning the ignition key on and off repeatedly until the thing "primes".

There is some residual air still.. but a bit of spirited driving (max throttle) solves that problem.

If you changed your own filter and didn't do this... it is on your dime.

 

^^^^ X2! That is how I do it. BTW, on all my Mustangs and my SD, I use nothing but Motorcraft filters, cannot go wrong with them!

 

I think you already answered your own question.

Which filter worked?

 

I will say use Motorcraft, I know my local Ford Dealer has an display on what an aftermaket filter looks like compared to and OEM. Its pretty interesting to look at. For instance OEM oil filter is 5 in, aftermarket 4.75. I see an issue in that lol

 

The brand of filter was Napa Gold made by wix, and they think that they are gold 80$ for two cartridge filters,

the eng is a 6.0l

I just find this situation to be odd, what the aftermarket rep pointed out is that in plain terms the factory filter has a hole drilled into it so the fancy wrap and . however good the filter is, the fuel has unfiltered passage thru it ??

I know that the rigs works with the factory filter, but if the reason is that its because of a design flaw, (the hole) thats no good either!!

 

$60 filters vs. $10K motor. Motorcraft= the only filter to run.

 

so you have a special wrap and filter down to whatever micron and then what?? a .010 hole ???
come on this doesnt add up?? Yep only motorcrap for me

I could really see why the after market wants a intact filter, but it didnt seem to work in this rig

wise up Ford fans your being hosed!!!