Painting SS trim
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 114
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From: Saraland, AL
Painting SS trim
I broke down and had the stainless steel hood trim on my '52 F-1 professionally sanded, buffed, and polished. Looks great. I actually tried it myself with wet sand paper and my buffing wheels and glad I gave up!
I am now trying to paint in the FORD letters and the "bullseye" on the F-1 circular medallion. I tried to put a light coat of bc/cc on the letters and bullseye but the adherance did not seem to be very good.
Anyone have luck with painting this on thier SS hood trim? What type of primer/paint worked on the SS trim? Did you spray it on or try and use a brush?
Looking for some tips on how to make this look good and last...
Thanks, Fred
I am now trying to paint in the FORD letters and the "bullseye" on the F-1 circular medallion. I tried to put a light coat of bc/cc on the letters and bullseye but the adherance did not seem to be very good.
Anyone have luck with painting this on thier SS hood trim? What type of primer/paint worked on the SS trim? Did you spray it on or try and use a brush?
Looking for some tips on how to make this look good and last...
Thanks, Fred
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
The likelyhood is the buffer put some sort of wax or grease (buffing compounds are dispersed in a grease base to form a bar and stick to the buff) on the trim when he refinished it which is resisting the paint. Give the pieces a good soak in acetone or a wax and grease remover followed by a scrub with a soft toothbrush and Dawn dish detergent in the area where you want the paint to stick. Rinse under hot water and watch the water reaction when you remove the piece from the water. If the water sheets off the piece the paint should stick, if it beads up then there is still something on it. As long as it has something on it no paint is going to flow out or stick for long.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 541
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From: Ardmore, TN / AL
We use Bulldog adhevise promoter that you can get at OReilly's. Clean thoroughly with thinner or equal and shoot the Bulldog and use enamel. We use that on aluminum, chrome, and stainless. Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 114
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From: Saraland, AL
I wanted to complete this post by mentioning what finally worked for me. I never could get the bc/cc to work. I cleaned the metal thoroughly, but the problem was the polished stainless. I just could not get good adhesion. If I had taken the time to paint in an epoxy primer, I am confident I could have gotten the bc/cc to work.
I did locate the one shot enamel at an artist supply shop. Unfortunately they did not have a full color selection. They were very helpful and stated that any acrylic enamel should work. They also suggested that to keep the brush marks to a minimum to use a very soft, high quality brush and to reduce the enamel.
<O
So back to my PPG paint shop where they mixed me 4 ounces of an acrylic enamel in the vermilion red (total cost was about $10). With new soft brushes, enamel w/reducer, some cotton swabs and lacquer thinner to clean up my mistakes, I began to paint in the letters and bulls eye. The results were not too bad and the adhesion seems to be good for now. There are still some brush marks if you look real close.
<OThanks for all the input and help.
<OFred
<O</O
I did locate the one shot enamel at an artist supply shop. Unfortunately they did not have a full color selection. They were very helpful and stated that any acrylic enamel should work. They also suggested that to keep the brush marks to a minimum to use a very soft, high quality brush and to reduce the enamel.
<O
So back to my PPG paint shop where they mixed me 4 ounces of an acrylic enamel in the vermilion red (total cost was about $10). With new soft brushes, enamel w/reducer, some cotton swabs and lacquer thinner to clean up my mistakes, I began to paint in the letters and bulls eye. The results were not too bad and the adhesion seems to be good for now. There are still some brush marks if you look real close. <O
Thanks for all the input and help.<O
Fred<O</O
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Gunbarrel, Co.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,669
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From: San Jose, CA
Looks perfect!
I've got a few 51 and 52 hood trims, plus hubcaps, that you could do for me if you want to continue practicing.
I've got a few 51 and 52 hood trims, plus hubcaps, that you could do for me if you want to continue practicing.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
Model car paints: Testors, Tamyia, are high quality paints available in a large # of colors, flat, gloss, opaque, transparent in small bottles at most hobby and craft stores. Trick to avoiding brush strokes is to thin the top coat and flow it off the brush rather than brushing it out. A lettering brush (long bristled round brush) works well for small areas, a flat lettering brush for larger areas. High quality brushes can be found at large craft stores and art supply stores. Choose natural bristles for solvent thinned paints and synthetic bristles for water thinned paints. NEVER use natural bristle brushes for water (latex) based paints unless you want to make a permanent scrub brush out of them.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Hand painted trim
I did mine a couple weeks back; wiped down with de-greaser and hand painted these pieces.
They look good from 10 feet; and will likely start peeling at some time, but then I'll have the "patina" I'm looking for. When restoring furniture or auto's, patina is short for defective workmanship (LOL)
They look good from 10 feet; and will likely start peeling at some time, but then I'll have the "patina" I'm looking for. When restoring furniture or auto's, patina is short for defective workmanship (LOL)