When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
need advice on how to get the bolt off the lower ball joint. 96 f150 twin i beam w/dana 44. i removed the top bolt but cannot remove bottom. i am using 1-1/8" wrench and i can get it on the nut but have no room to turn.
I've done that job a few times, and don't have any memory of having a lack of room to turn the wrench. I've broken breaker bars (two), on that lower nut so be sure to use some heat. When I've done this job, I take everything off the knuckle: tie rod, brakes, spindle (rent the puller from Auto Zone for free if you want to reuse the spindle, probably destroy it without the puller), axle stub with the U-joint on it, and the brake shield thing. Then the knuckle if loose on the end of the axle with lots of room/enough room.
Yes, the axle shafts in that front end and not clipped in as in most differentials. They just slide in and out of the diff freely, but are "held" in position by a bearing in the inner bore of the spindle. Oh that spindle puller threads onto the large threads of the spindle and requires a slide hammer that threads into the puller, which Auto Zone should also have. I sound like an Auto Zone salesman or something...yikes.
To pull the spindle, just remove the 6? nuts that are on the studs in the knuckle, then use the puller, and as a warning the spindles can be pretty stubborn.
The axle is clipped in on the passenger's side but it will slide right out on the driver's side. Also do NOT use heat on the knuckle because you will cause it to lose its temper and weaken it.
i could swear that spindle is connected to the knuckle because no matter whati did it would not budge, but i guess i will try the puller. also it looks like the wheel joint part of the driver side axle is too big to fit through the knuckle even if the spindle was removed but i guess i won't know until its removed
i could swear that spindle is connected to the knuckle because no matter whati did it would not budge, but i guess i will try the puller. also it looks like the wheel joint part of the driver side axle is too big to fit through the knuckle even if the spindle was removed but i guess i won't know until its removed
You do know, here and over on your other thread, the people here are telling how to do it and yes it will fit, that is how to go about it to get it apart.
It is not all one piece, knock the spindle off and slide the axle out. You don't have a one of a kind axle.
Yup, guess you don't need that manual after all huh? (insert "eye roll" here.....)
I just huse a rubber mallet and beat the spindle till it comes out, never broke 1 yet, and have done plenty of rusty ones, when you are done with the joints make sure to put the grease fittins in the top ball joints. You might have to grind the grese fittings if they come close to the u-joint. Just keep takin some off till the u-joint spins without hitting. You might also want to change the axle shaft u-joints while your there. Also put antiseize on everything so it comes back apart easy if you ever have to in the future.
when you are done with the joints make sure to put the grease fittins in the top ball joints. You might have to grind the grese fittings if they come close to the u-joint. Just keep takin some off till the u-joint spins without hitting. You might also want to change the axle shaft u-joints while your there. Also put antiseize on everything so it comes back apart easy if you ever have to in the future.
X2 on that one. Although I don't think you'll have to grind down the fittings on a half ton, maybe, I just know I had lots of clearance for them. I would absolutely change the axle shaft U-joint if there is any question of its condition. Or do the float test on it; if it floats leave it in, if it sinks put a new one in. haha
Originally Posted by danR1
Yup, guess you don't need that manual after all huh? (insert "eye roll" here.....)
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.