Removing Fuel Tank...?
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,231
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From: Thomasville, GA
Removing Fuel Tank...?
I will be upgrading to a larger rear fuel tank in the near future. My questions are:
Should I disconnect the fuel lines and such before pulling out the sender?
What size fuel disconnect tool do I need for it?
How does the sender and internal stuff come out? Do I just twist the ring along the outside of it?
Pics would be great...
Should I disconnect the fuel lines and such before pulling out the sender?
What size fuel disconnect tool do I need for it?
How does the sender and internal stuff come out? Do I just twist the ring along the outside of it?
Pics would be great...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,808
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From: Meigs County Ohio
When I was redoing the rear suspension in my 150, I also neededto dropt he tank and get it unrusted and cleaned up, and I found, it was way easier to drop it if you take the bed off (Also I took the bed off so I could replace all the shackles and hangers, and new shocks. So you may try that route if you want. My 52 year old mom and me lifted the bed off the truck and moved it (Thought it is a short box) so if you can get few buddy you guys can move it easily.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,027
Likes: 9
From: Manchester, CT USA
I did this with my half-ton I'm guessing it's the same with the diesel. Check out these threads of swapping the rear tank for a Bronco 33 gal tank: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-tank-mod.html and https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...tank-leak.html
Hope that helps
Hope that helps
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 432
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From: Willow Grove, PA
From all I've seen on this mod/upgrade you should go w/ a F26E replacement 38 gallon tank. Rock Auto carries them by Spectra (less than $200), they were a factory option in the 80's on our trucks. I would pull the bed, everyone who has done it seems to wish they had due to the lack of access to the top of the tank. That's how the factory built them orginally bed on last. While bed is off you could lift out old tank & drop in new one instead of trying to lowering & jacking up. I know some have done the Bronco tanks they are "different" shaped and require a bit of fab work to the frame to mount them, the F26E tank only requires longer bolts. Power Stroke Nation has a write up on this version (I think). My $.02 worth. This is what I'm doing once I clear up the water in the front tank & order the new tank. Anyone know of a larger than 19 gal factory tank for the front???
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,027
Likes: 9
From: Manchester, CT USA
I've heard this before and while true writing it this way makes it sound difficult. If you look at the aforementioned links you'll see the "fab work" is adding a cross member consisting of a length of angle iron about 36" long and drilling a few holes. In the gas trucks the hole in the tank for the sending unit is larger (changed in '89) for emission reasons. I'm not sure that would be a issue being in a diesel truck.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: North East Ohio
You drop the rear of the tank down and this allows you to reach up in there to disconnect the fuel lines.
You need 3/8" and 5/16" uncoupler thingies.
Once the lines are off, drop the tank all the way down. Once on the ground take a hammer and screwdriver and tap the retaining ring to get it off. the new tank comes with a new ring, don't worry if/when you bend parts of it beating on it. With the ring off the sender just lifts out.
The worst part is getting in there to unhook the lines.
LOTS easier without the bed, but can be done from under.
You need 3/8" and 5/16" uncoupler thingies.
Once the lines are off, drop the tank all the way down. Once on the ground take a hammer and screwdriver and tap the retaining ring to get it off. the new tank comes with a new ring, don't worry if/when you bend parts of it beating on it. With the ring off the sender just lifts out.
The worst part is getting in there to unhook the lines.
LOTS easier without the bed, but can be done from under.
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Thread Starter
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 11,231
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From: Thomasville, GA
Thanks guys. All I needed was how to disconnect the tank. Got the 38 gallon tank parts and install all figured out...
Exactly what I needed Jim. With the 3" body lift in there I have pretty easy access to the lines, but I still may remove the bed. Luckily my rear tank is basically empty cause I ran it all the way down once it started to leak.
You drop the rear of the tank down and this allows you to reach up in there to disconnect the fuel lines.
You need 3/8" and 5/16" uncoupler thingies.
Once the lines are off, drop the tank all the way down. Once on the ground take a hammer and screwdriver and tap the retaining ring to get it off. the new tank comes with a new ring, don't worry if/when you bend parts of it beating on it. With the ring off the sender just lifts out.
The worst part is getting in there to unhook the lines.
LOTS easier without the bed, but can be done from under.
You need 3/8" and 5/16" uncoupler thingies.
Once the lines are off, drop the tank all the way down. Once on the ground take a hammer and screwdriver and tap the retaining ring to get it off. the new tank comes with a new ring, don't worry if/when you bend parts of it beating on it. With the ring off the sender just lifts out.
The worst part is getting in there to unhook the lines.
LOTS easier without the bed, but can be done from under.
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