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If you get a vehicle with less than 50K....and want to drive it as long as possible....immediately switch all fluids to synthetic.
If this is done early (less than 50K on an otherwise well-maintained vehicle).....it'll mean an extra 50+ K out of it (or...at least A LOT less trouble during the end of its life).
Changing an older vehicle to synthetic...hoping it will make some wear-related problem go away....really doesn't help.
Again, all IMO....but....I did the above with my last 2 Explorers (got both with less than 40K miles)....and the engines in both were running great with over 270 K + and neither motor ever needed any work. The only thing done was replacing the plugs.
Other general wear and tear items (trans, etc)...is what resulted in my letting them go.
i bought a 1989 F250 with a 351 motor. Drove it 250k miles. Pulled the crap out of it, pulled camper, used it as a tractor on the farm..14 years... Changed the oil at 5000 mile intervals with Havolin 10 w 30. Day i sold it, it would still pull Chicago around with a big enough chain!
My 2001 is allmost new at 197k miles, so i cant claim how it will run at 300k miles on dyno oil. LOL
i bought a 1989 F250 with a 351 motor. Drove it 250k miles. Pulled the crap out of it, pulled camper, used it as a tractor on the farm..14 years... Changed the oil at 5000 mile intervals with Havolin 10 w 30. Day i sold it, it would still pull Chicago around with a big enough chain!
My 2001 is allmost new at 197k miles, so i cant claim how it will run at 300k miles on dyno oil. LOL
The guy with the million mile van has used dino oil for all of his miles. He is over 1.1 million miles now....that is all the proof I need, really. But I am using full syn in my van and one of our other vehicles so I feel less guilty about extending change intervals.
You guys really have this down to a science. I've been buying the Motorcraft Synthetic blend for a $11 bucks for 5 quarts lately. It sure as hell beats Mobil 1 for $23 for 5 quarts. I was running mobil 1 for a long time but it got too expensive in my Mountaineer. What are all you guys recommending for oil filters? I've bought my fair share of K and N filters for my Mountaineer and also used the Motorcraft 820s too. Motorcraft are cheap(3.27), the K and N expensive(9.50). Is there really a difference between these?
You guys really have this down to a science. I've been buying the Motorcraft Synthetic blend for a $11 bucks for 5 quarts lately. It sure as hell beats Mobil 1 for $23 for 5 quarts. I was running mobil 1 for a long time but it got too expensive in my Mountaineer. What are all you guys recommending for oil filters? I've bought my fair share of K and N filters for my Mountaineer and also used the Motorcraft 820s too. Motorcraft are cheap(3.27), the K and N expensive(9.50). Is there really a difference between these?
According to the various sources that I have read the Motorcraft filters are very well made and provide excellent quality.
You guys really have this down to a science. I've been buying the Motorcraft Synthetic blend for a $11 bucks for 5 quarts lately. It sure as hell beats Mobil 1 for $23 for 5 quarts. I was running mobil 1 for a long time but it got too expensive in my Mountaineer. What are all you guys recommending for oil filters? I've bought my fair share of K and N filters for my Mountaineer and also used the Motorcraft 820s too. Motorcraft are cheap(3.27), the K and N expensive(9.50). Is there really a difference between these?
Motorcraft 820S filters are great (made by Purolator) and actually superior in some ways. K & N and Mobil 1's are excellent, basically the same as one another, made by Champion labs, and priced at double what they should be. I use Motorcrafts but have a couple Pure Ones that were almost free for my next couple changes. Read this: