Need some expert advice!
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, Ab. Canada
Need some expert advice!
ok I'm trying to get a 81 302 Running and need some help.
recently the timing chanin has been replaced and i'm not sure if the guy did it right. would I have 135psi in each clyinder if the valve timing was off?
I checked for spark and seem to have enough.
I changed the carb (the other one sat for 5 years with fuel in it)
and the gas tank was drained and re-filled with fresh gas.
I can't get it to fire on ether even!
it seems like my firing order is screwed. I tried both SBF firing orders and verified the rotation of the distrib.
I've retarded my timing a full turn of the distrib. and tried many points between there and fully advanced.
I'm going to check the ign. system with a Ohm \ Volt meter tomorrow and see if maybe my coil is craped or maybe my ballast?
Sorry for the novel.. and help would be great. thanks!
recently the timing chanin has been replaced and i'm not sure if the guy did it right. would I have 135psi in each clyinder if the valve timing was off?
I checked for spark and seem to have enough.
I changed the carb (the other one sat for 5 years with fuel in it)
and the gas tank was drained and re-filled with fresh gas.
I can't get it to fire on ether even!
it seems like my firing order is screwed. I tried both SBF firing orders and verified the rotation of the distrib.
I've retarded my timing a full turn of the distrib. and tried many points between there and fully advanced.
I'm going to check the ign. system with a Ohm \ Volt meter tomorrow and see if maybe my coil is craped or maybe my ballast?
Sorry for the novel.. and help would be great. thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
Need some expert advice!
If you have good pressure in each cylinder then chances are the cam is already correctly installed. The only way to tell for certain is to remove the valve covers, roll the engine by hand and watch that each intake and exhaust valve open and shut in the correct sequence with the firing order. Once that checks out, the next thing would be to make sure the distributor is correcetly installed. The number one problem for a gasoline engine engine failing to start is due to ignition problems. Just the number 1 cylinder up on top dead center on the compression stroke (both valves closed) and install the distributor so that the rotor lines up with any lead on the dist. cap. That lead is now the number one cylinder's plug wire. Install the rest of the wires using the correct firing order.
Last edited by fastf150; Jan 26, 2003 at 11:34 AM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 1
From: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
Need some expert advice!
Another thing I've run into is that sometimes the magnetic pickups in the distributor will crap out on you, I figured out a way to test them, since this happened to me a few weeks ago:
-turn the key to the run, but not start position,
-hold (any one, preferably #1) spark plug wire about 1/2" away from a ground source, but don't hold on it to it (for safety)
-turn the engine over slowly by hand for about 2 entire revolutions
-watch and listen for the spark, and the "buzz" when it actually spits out a spark
if it does spark, then your ignition system is firing. The good thing abuot this test is that it tells if the entire system is working. If there's any one component that isn't, then it won't spit out a spark, and you'll have to go back to testing individual components, which I can walk you though if need be, I've done them all. If it does spit out a spark, then there's no more guesswork, you're all set. It's actually best to do this test in the dark, it makes it much easier to see the spark, if you do get one. Pay close attention when the timing marks on the balancer approach your initial timing (if you're using the #1 plug wire), because this is when the distributor should be triggered, and should connect with the coil and box, and spit out a spark. TK
-turn the key to the run, but not start position,
-hold (any one, preferably #1) spark plug wire about 1/2" away from a ground source, but don't hold on it to it (for safety)
-turn the engine over slowly by hand for about 2 entire revolutions
-watch and listen for the spark, and the "buzz" when it actually spits out a spark
if it does spark, then your ignition system is firing. The good thing abuot this test is that it tells if the entire system is working. If there's any one component that isn't, then it won't spit out a spark, and you'll have to go back to testing individual components, which I can walk you though if need be, I've done them all. If it does spit out a spark, then there's no more guesswork, you're all set. It's actually best to do this test in the dark, it makes it much easier to see the spark, if you do get one. Pay close attention when the timing marks on the balancer approach your initial timing (if you're using the #1 plug wire), because this is when the distributor should be triggered, and should connect with the coil and box, and spit out a spark. TK
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
drusher
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
15
Jul 24, 2014 04:38 PM
roudabush
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
1
Feb 10, 2011 08:21 AM
Fr0gger
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
8
Apr 23, 2010 02:45 PM
superskip
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
4
Jun 28, 2005 01:20 AM
