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Pulling my 4k 24ft ecnlosed trailer tonight i got the blinking tranny light. I was doing 60mph with o/d off. Truck was running fine, occasionally unlocking the torque converter and locking it back up on small hills and jumping to 2nd on some bigger hills. Nothing really all that harsh.
Funny thing is i just changed the tranny fluid the day prior and it was perfect. Bright red and no metal or any collection on the magnet to speak of. Kinda funny i got this light after putting 5 fresh quarts of tranny fluid in.
Truck still shifts fine. I assumed that was what it was so i slowed down and it eventually went away.
Heck though i have towed this trailer at 70mph for 150miles with out over heating the tranny.
What gives? I have heard the temp sensor can go bad, but im doubting it in my case.
Let me know what you think. Possibly a larger tranny cooler?
Today it started flashing at me after i went out and did some holeshots and being hard on it without the trailer. Im just trying to figure out what is going on. It starts to shudder a bit in reverse and forward when the o/d light is flashing. Still getting P 1783
Funny thing is i just changed the tranny fluid the day prior and it was perfect. Bright red and no metal or any collection on the magnet to speak of. Kinda funny i got this light after putting 5 fresh quarts of tranny fluid in.
Let me know what you think. Possibly a larger tranny cooler?
Since this happened immediately after you serviced the transmission, a couple of issues come to mind.
1. Did you use the correct transmission fluid?
2. Did you underfill or overfill the transmission?
I swear i had it at the right level hot idling in park when i did it. But now it seems to be a bit high. So i pulled one of the tranny cooler lines to drain it and barley get any out when the truck is running. It starts out as a small stream and goes to almost nothign but a drop every .5 seconds or so.
I have noticed that it still shifts fine now but it still gets hot if i drive it hard. Also it doesnt like to lock the torque converter up at 55mph. At 60 mph and above it locks up perfectly.
Im leaning torwards the torque converter being the problem. Right after i changed it the torque converter didnt want to unlock when you would come to a stop sign. It would just drag the motor down and kill it after you went slow enough. After doing that for about 20 miles of testing it, it finally stopped and acted normal until all this started.
Now it shift fine and acts fine other than it gets hot easily and doesnt want to lock the converter up below 60mph.
How much flow should come out the lines of the tranny cooler. I was remember there should be quite alot of flow there.
sounds to me either like your torque converter as you said, or... some crud broke loose and something somewhere is clogged up going too or from your cooler.
Ehh it was all me all the time. I didnt get enough fluid in it. I was reading the residue in the dipstick tube thinking it was the actual fluid. Filled her up the rest of the way and problems went away.
I have done this several times before, cant believe i couldnt tell the difference between just a film from the tube and the actual level. Of course i was more than a quart low.
Just for reference. it take 5.5 qt to change your tranny fluid in a 4r70w. not 4.75 like arnolds motor co says.
Well the problem has not been resolved. The transmission is not pumping anything out to the tranny cooler. The tranny cooler lines are clear so i know there not plugged. It still shifts and drives just fine and unless its hooked to the trailer, it doesnt get hot.
Anybody know why my tranny isnt pumping anything out to the cooler? Why is it over heating?
I believe there is a thermostatic bypass valve in on the cooler lines.
I read about it somewhere on one of the forums, I just don't remember which one.
The bypass helps get the trans fluid up to operating temp quicker by bypassing the cooler until a set temp is reached.
If a bearing chewed up behind the front pump/converter, peices could have blocked up the 'radiator' cooler/line/port and reduced the fluid flow volume.
Any trans work from hear on needs a hot reverse flush of everything, volume and presure testing or risk another failure of a new trans..
The fluid flow needs to be adiquit as well as cooled because it flows/cools and lubes other parts before dropping into the pan.
Everything in the tranny looks perfect. I did find some debris on the rotor valve deal that is on the pressure side of the cooler system in the valve body. Its a drum that has slots in it. Looks like it supposed to rotate and let fluid by. Anyways there was a small amount of crud there.
Might have been the issue. But i find it hard to believe that the little amount could stop that high flow/volume.
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