Just finished installing my Cooling Mist water injection unit. My new mod stands for

Air Intake Heater Delete Water Injection Mod

I did this mod strictly for cleaning the combustion chamber on my Greasecar Truck, so I just needed 1 of the smallest injectors, and the 150 psi Shurflo pump. If you are looking to cool high EGTs, you can add a tee, one or two more injectors and a 250 psi pump.

I took a Cummins oil pan pug, and drilled and tapped it for 1/8" NPT. Then I screwed in the water injection mister in the bottom end of the plug, and the water supply hose barb on the other end of the tapped plug. The mister is on the left side of the drain plug in the pic below. It is a 6.2 GPH injector. On the right is the 1/8 NPT X 1/4 ID hose barb.



I put JBWeld around the mister and the hose barb.


The Water Injection plug is then installed in place of the Air intake Heater. Delete the Air Intake Heater. Remove the red wire from the solenoid. Leave the other wire ( it is said to be blue, but mine was black) on the solenoid. Remove the ground wire and then remove the heater (13/16 wrench). Replace heater with the AIHDWI plug. You may get the DTC P0541. Clear the code and it will not come back.



The water injection is controlled by a boost switch. I mounted the boost switch in the fuse panel wiring area. The boost switch is set to come on at 8 psi. I tee'd into the MAP sensor line. It is 1/4' vacuum hose. I used a brass 1/4" tee and a 1/4" compression fitting to control the boost switch. The water supply hose is .180" ID and 1/4" OD. I couldn't find a barb that fit the .180" ID poly hose, so I just used a piece of 1/4" ID rubber hose to "step down" until I can get to the hardware store tomorrow and get 1/4" ID poly hose. You can see that in the picture after the one below.




The water supply hose and the boost hose is running across the back of the engine, through the firewall into the cab in some wire loom. Those other hose? Those are my other "experiments" (see sig).



I put the water tank and pump in the backseat of the cab. It will partially wedge under the bench seat in my super cab. It is wedged tightly. Filled it with distilled water. The backseat location is temporary but it would keep it from freezing and/or allow it to thaw quicker. The 150 psi Shurflo pump is quiet. It has a check valve, and I installed a fuse. The CV is hard to see in the pic below but it has the orange piece on it. The tank I have is 1.5 gallon. I plan on putting a bigger tank in the bed one day. I have it in the backseat so I can keep an eye on it all for a while.



I put an master ON/OFF switch and a LED light that is wired to the pump in the dash ,so the LED comes on when the pump is spraying. I can see (and hear) when the pump is on, so I can calibrate the boost switch, since the switch has no calibrations. It just has a allen head (5/64") that you turn counter clockwise to have it come on at lower boost levels, and vice versa.

So there you have it. The Air Intake Heater Delete Water Injection Mod. If anyone would like a parts list, PM me. You definitely can piece this together yourself more cheaply than buying the kit, UNLESS you get the kit on a big sale, like I did. The kit, plus plug, switch, LED, wiring, and wire loom was $240.

 

dose this put water in to the intake of the motor, how dose this help. also good right up.

 

It will spray water in the intake tract and cool the intake charge.

Good write-up. I might get a coolingmist kit installed next weekend and do a write up.

 

I installed the water injection for the benefits of cleaning the combustion chamber on my waste vegetable oil conversion, but this morning I did see a 125 degree reduction in EGTs while accelerating up a hill. My system would be considered a stage 1 system. The water is injected when boost hits 9 psi and stops when it goes below 7 psi. I am sure that bigger nozzles and more of them would reduce EGTs even more.

 

I just drove it unloaded 80 highway miles at the 70 mph speed limit and used .75 gallons of water.

So that works out to about 100 miles per 1 gallon of distilled water, using a 6.2 gph nozzle, a 150 psi pump and nozzle activating at 9 psi and deactivating at 7 psi.

You can decide how big of a tank you need using those figures.

 

So this is ONLY for EGT reduction, correct? And is it better to inject after the IC?? I've never considered water injection until now -- my EGTs are way up there when I'm getting on it due to my turbo being a bit on the small side for my injectors (UNDERSTATEMENT )

 

And to clean some carbon deposits also. That's really my goal, because the only towing I do is the pontoon from storage to the lake in spring and back int he fall! I read that all diesels prior to the 70's had water injection installed.

 

Nice Write-up Kirk. Reps sent.

 

The reason I ask is that I really don't want to make any more power -- if this accompanies say, a 25 HP increase, I'll probably be in trouble. But I am interested in dropping my EGTs on the top end.

 

Nice work Kirk - Seems like a good idea for towing.

 

Don't know who wrote it but in all my years as a diesel mechanic I never saw it.But that was just engines dating from the '40s

 

better mpg with water injection kit?

 

Not that I can tell but I don't use it all the time. I just use water innection when I am towing and when I am running it hard. My interest was more to clean the combustion chamber and to lower EGTs.

 

Does the spray stop immediately when the pump does, or is there some bleed down time when the pump stops? I was wondering if there was any chance of water dripping in to the intake as the boost drops. Probably not a big deal with the 6.2GPH injector? Just curious.

I think a good tune will help me with EGTs once I drop the canned Edge tunes, but thought this might be a good option when the next mod bug bites (bigger injectors).

 

The dribble is not a concern when the engine is running, but I've seen others suggest mounting the nozzle in the CAC pipe where it will allow any water that could trickle in with engine OFF to run down into CAC instead of on top of a piston.

With good tuning and no boost/drive-pressure leaks, EGT's are not a problem with stock injectors.