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I have 3.55s now and have a hard time pulling my 12,000lb trailer. If I get her up to 55-60 it will hold on flat ground if there is no wind. The problem is it shifts from second to third at 50 so I'm turning very low RPMs at 55-60. We will not even talk about the hills; ok just say first gear and 25 mph. That's the small hills; forget about a pass or traveling very far with the trailer.
I'm looking at going to 4.10s to improve the pulling. Will this make that much difference in the pulling? I only put on 3 or 4 thousand miles a year so I do not care about the mileage, I want to pull the trailer.
The local shop wants $1,000 to put in a used rear-end, truck is a 2X4. I don't really have that much money to put into the truck right now. I can do $500 or so but not the $1,000. What do you guys think? Is it worth it or is there a better to get the trailer down the road?
The 4:10's would help. Why dont you just get the gears changed instead of the whole axle. Around hear a gear swap with a rebuild kit only runs about $600.
i cant help ya on the gear ratio, but i know with my 4sp man, anything on a bumper pull trailer is a B----- But i have pulled 13-14K 5th wheel trailer and it never slowed down on the hills. jmlo
My trailer is a bumper pull. It does not help it has a high flat nose on it. It seems to have the shift points in all the wrong places. I look at a hill and it shifts to second and falls fast to 35mph then if the hill is a longer hill I will see first gear. I worry about getting rear-ended by a jogger. I have to move over to let the bicyclist pass.
4.10 will keep your rpm,s up at 55 60 mph to where flat ground it shouldn,t be struggling.
Where are you located, a used rear is usually not that high and installing it is pretty easy. What are you running for exhaust.
They said something about heavy gears and wanted $1,500 to do it.
Thats ridiculous, I had both axles regeared and rebuilt on my 85 F-250 for only $1200. I'd find another shop. You could always hit CL and do it yourself. Rear axles from these trucks are usually $300 or less. If your truck was 2 years older, I could have sold you a 4:10 geared sterling axle for cheap.
What about a rearend from a 99 Ford F-350 SRW pickup @WD 530 gear ratio for sale for $450.00 obo. Would this work our would I have to do a lot of mods? What is a WD 530 gear ratio?
The 2 problems I see with that axle are the wheel bolt pattern will be different, and the VSS. Your truck gets the speedometer info from a sensor(VSS) in the rear axle. I'm not sure if the newer trucks do it the same way.
What about a rearend from a 99 Ford F-350 SRW pickup @WD 530 gear ratio for sale for $450.00 obo. Would this work our would I have to do a lot of mods? What is a WD 530 gear ratio?
What about a Rear Axle out of a 96 F250, 4.10,PZ with 132,229 miles for $400. They also have one out of a 97 F250, 4.10, PZ with 183,530 miles for $350.
What about a Rear Axle out of a 96 F250, 4.10,PZ with 132,229 miles for $400. They also have one out of a 97 F250, 4.10, PZ with 183,530 miles for $350.
yes it will help hauling considerably.
since you don't drive but about 1 oil's change worth a year,you may as well just say the economy is the same.
yes,either of those axles will bolt right in.VSS and bolt pattern are the same.
you can do this yourself,it's quite easy (it's work,and will take ya some time,but it's simple to see and understand how to do it.)
also a good rule of thumb is every 100k = new injectors and IP.
remember,besides air filter/fuel filter/glow plugs/oil changes,this is basically our only other tune up items.every 100k is cheap enough.keeping your power/economy is worth it.
repack the wheel bearings/seals and you will also need new U-bolts.
every 100k you need to flush the gear oil.so plan on this expense as well.
What about a Rear Axle out of a 96 F250, 4.10,PZ with 132,229 miles for $400. They also have one out of a 97 F250, 4.10, PZ with 183,530 miles for $350.
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