paint bubbles
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 274
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From: British Columbia
paint bubbles
I had my 91 f-250 repainted 5 years ago (one of the years that all the paint fell off) I notice even though the paint looks good it is stating to bubble and rust under the bubbles. Is this the fault of the paint or paint job or something I should expect. I am going to have it repainted and am wondering if I should take it to the same shop
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Where are the bubbles forming? If its in locations like the top of the wheel arches, rocker panel on extended cabs, cab corners, lower lip of hood, bottom of doors and tailgate, its a rusting problem that can be typical with the truck. If not in those locations, it could be from previous body work, water is getting to it and causing the filler and paint to bubble due to rust. If no body work was done and its not one of those areas listed, then there could have been a crack or small chip in the paint and it let water get behind the paint causing the rust. Could also be from the shop not prepping right and letting some minor rust on before painting and it is now showing thru.
Try and post a pic of the problem area and maybe I or someone can give a more clear answer to your problem.
Try and post a pic of the problem area and maybe I or someone can give a more clear answer to your problem.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 274
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From: British Columbia
No it is not in the usual ford pickup places it is here and there pretty much on all panels
There was no body work done, it was sanded to bare metal primed and painted. Some of the spots may be from chipped paint like the front of the hood. I am not ready to have it repainted yet so don't want rust spots to get worse.
There was no body work done, it was sanded to bare metal primed and painted. Some of the spots may be from chipped paint like the front of the hood. I am not ready to have it repainted yet so don't want rust spots to get worse.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Saskatoon
Chaos has it dead on.
To stop rust right now, get some Phospohoric Acid rust solution (Rust Mort, Metal Ready, Naval Jelly...) and treat any areas that haven't got paint on them. If they do, scrape off the paint first. Follow directions to keep wet for 30-60 mins, then wipe off with wet rags, then dry it well, then use pre-paint solvent to clean, dry it again, then touch-up until you can have it painted properly.
Incedentally, this EXACT routine is what any shop should do with ANY rust repair, anytime.
To stop rust right now, get some Phospohoric Acid rust solution (Rust Mort, Metal Ready, Naval Jelly...) and treat any areas that haven't got paint on them. If they do, scrape off the paint first. Follow directions to keep wet for 30-60 mins, then wipe off with wet rags, then dry it well, then use pre-paint solvent to clean, dry it again, then touch-up until you can have it painted properly.
Incedentally, this EXACT routine is what any shop should do with ANY rust repair, anytime.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Pottstown, PA
Often times those types of bubbles can be from improper prep of the metal before priming/sealing (Or even within the actual priming/sealing itself). Any pics of the area in question to help determine the cause?
As others mentioned, treating it now with some sort of rust product is best to keep it from getting worse. Our rust converter is great for this type of situation, just brush off any loose rust and spray on, then top coat if so desired.
Eastwood Rust Converter - Convert Rust in One Step
As others mentioned, treating it now with some sort of rust product is best to keep it from getting worse. Our rust converter is great for this type of situation, just brush off any loose rust and spray on, then top coat if so desired.
Eastwood Rust Converter - Convert Rust in One Step
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,157
Likes: 3
Often times those types of bubbles can be from improper prep of the metal before priming/sealing (Or even within the actual priming/sealing itself). Any pics of the area in question to help determine the cause?
As others mentioned, treating it now with some sort of rust product is best to keep it from getting worse. Our rust converter is great for this type of situation, just brush off any loose rust and spray on, then top coat if so desired.
Eastwood Rust Converter - Convert Rust in One Step
As others mentioned, treating it now with some sort of rust product is best to keep it from getting worse. Our rust converter is great for this type of situation, just brush off any loose rust and spray on, then top coat if so desired.
Eastwood Rust Converter - Convert Rust in One Step
Posting Guru
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Here is my .02 on rust. Rust converters are nice to use on frames, suspension, drivetrain but when it come to the body, rust is like cancer. Unless you remove it, it will come back. Might be back in a year, maybe 5 maybe 10 (depends on many factors). I have done many rust repairs and the shop I was at would never guarantee rust repairs. Not because we didnt know what we were doing, but because its like cancer, you can never guarantee it wont be back. For surface rust a good media blasting or sanding followed by self etching primer then acrylic primer and paint is what I do. For other rust, I try to remove all the rusted metal and replace with new.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
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Here is my .02 on rust. Rust converters are nice to use on frames, suspension, drivetrain but when it come to the body, rust is like cancer. Unless you remove it, it will come back. Might be back in a year, maybe 5 maybe 10 (depends on many factors). I have done many rust repairs and the shop I was at would never guarantee rust repairs. Not because we didnt know what we were doing, but because its like cancer, you can never guarantee it wont be back. For surface rust a good media blasting or sanding followed by self etching primer then acrylic primer and paint is what I do. For other rust, I try to remove all the rusted metal and replace with new.
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Posting Guru
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I always take it down to bare metal in the areas where the rust is. If there are spots of paint and primer inbetween rust areas, I remove the existing paint and primer to bare metal. I have found surface rust under paint and primer in situations like that. Your gonna have to reprime the area anyway and it doesnt take much to sand to bare metal. In the case of the rust, I would start at a 150 grit, then change to 180 grit. Then prime over that.
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