89 302 emissions question after header install
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From: Oxford, ME
89 302 emissions question after header install
Just installed Hooker Competition long tube headers on my '89 Bronco w/ the 302 and in the process removed the tube that was mounted along the manifold on the passengers' side. There was a metal tube and some kind of diaphragm looking part attached by rubber hoses that i also removed. This was attached to a canister on the inner fender and also went to what i assume is the air pump run off the serp belt. There was also a hose that went toward the back of the intake manifold which i left unhooked and unplugged. I dont know if this is fine to leave unhooked or if something needs to be blocked off? I just dont want to do any damage to my truck. We dont have emissions here in maine so that is not an issue. I also changed spark plugs when i did the headers and noticed they were white?! That kind of scared me... Any info will be great as i'm going home this weekend from school and can work on it. Thanks in advance!
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You should be fine as long as you dont have any vaccum leaks. Any open ports on the intake manifold should be plugged. Though im curious about "the hose coming from the back of the intake manifold." Thats not the hose going to the pcv valve is it?
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From: Oxford, ME
im not really sure. it was attached to a metal tube that had brackets that the manifold bolts passed through. there was another metal pipe that came off the Y pipe too that went to something behind the intake too. This was smaller than the tube that ran from behind the motor to the canister/air pump. i think these are 2 seperate things unhooked. i had true duals made up from the headers back and didnt retain that exhaust thing coming off the y pipe. Is that for the EGR?
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
No that's not fine at all, you have to remove the air tube across the back of the motor between the cylinder heads and plug the holes with 5/8x1" coarse bolts. Leaving this tube open is causing the motor to run excessively lean and damage will result if you don't do something about it.
Also make sure the vacuum lines from the TAB and TAD solenoids going to the diverter valves on this system are plugged.
Also make sure the vacuum lines from the TAB and TAD solenoids going to the diverter valves on this system are plugged.
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Freshman User
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From: Oxford, ME
ok great to know thank you! how many holes are there to plug? should i use some thread tape or something on the bolts when i put them in? vacuum lines are plugged i did take care of that when i removed that diaphragm looking thing. Thanks so much for the quick replies! I'll let you know how it goes saturday when i get a chance to work on it
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From: Topsfield, MA
Do you still have cats?
If you do, you need to retain the air injection system.
If you don't, you can delete the air injection system. You can install an idler pulley in place of the air pump and delete the associated parts.
The air tube that bolts to the back of the cylinder heads attaches to ports. Those ports need to be blocked like he said.
I assume you're also going to loose EGR with your headers, in which case you need to block all that off too. I would remove all the rest of the emissions BS in the process.
Your check engine light will be on unless you tune around it or you use resistors in the harness to fool the computer.
If you do, you need to retain the air injection system.
If you don't, you can delete the air injection system. You can install an idler pulley in place of the air pump and delete the associated parts.
The air tube that bolts to the back of the cylinder heads attaches to ports. Those ports need to be blocked like he said.
I assume you're also going to loose EGR with your headers, in which case you need to block all that off too. I would remove all the rest of the emissions BS in the process.
Your check engine light will be on unless you tune around it or you use resistors in the harness to fool the computer.
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From: Oxford, ME
Truck has no cats just thrush welded mufflers. Is EGR and the air injection the only things i need to remove/block off? I read i can just unhook everything from the air pump and leave the pump there to serve as an idler?
When you mention the check engine light do you mean it will be on after the things are disabled? It is not on now...
So basically my to do list is as follows:
1) remove air tube behind intake and plug holes with 5/8x1" coarse bolts
2) read up on EGR delete/carry out as specified (I know I've seen posts on the subject)
3) remove any other air injection related parts (hoses from pump, etc)
Seem about right? Thanks again!
When you mention the check engine light do you mean it will be on after the things are disabled? It is not on now...
So basically my to do list is as follows:
1) remove air tube behind intake and plug holes with 5/8x1" coarse bolts
2) read up on EGR delete/carry out as specified (I know I've seen posts on the subject)
3) remove any other air injection related parts (hoses from pump, etc)
Seem about right? Thanks again!
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From: Oxford, ME
So what I have gathered is in order to delete the EGR all i have to do is either unplug the green vacuum line going to it or make a blockoff plate between the valve and the intake manifold? Which is the best way to go about this?
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No that's not fine at all, you have to remove the air tube across the back of the motor between the cylinder heads and plug the holes with 5/8x1" coarse bolts. Leaving this tube open is causing the motor to run excessively lean and damage will result if you don't do something about it.
Also make sure the vacuum lines from the TAB and TAD solenoids going to the diverter valves on this system are plugged.
Also make sure the vacuum lines from the TAB and TAD solenoids going to the diverter valves on this system are plugged.
FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Use a copper washer to seal the bolt, thread sealant won't last as these ports are exposed to hot exhaust gases.
The first pic is the smog line in question...
351smoglines on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
The next pic is a motor with the line removed and the holes plugged as suggested.
IMG_0567 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
It's not worth the trouble to delete or disable the EGR on this motor IMO, It doesn't interfere with the exhaust system and actually helps improve milage when functional.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Topsfield, MA
You can go to the hardware store and pick up a plug rather than a bolt. It will be a cleaner more appropriate item to use.
That pipe is not at the back of the intake, it is the back of the cylinder heads.
You can reach them without too much trouble.
You could leave the air pump there...but why? It's messy and unnecessary. And what if it fails/locks up? It will if water gets in it. The idler pulley air pump delete for a 5.0 mustang will fit and its about $50.
Yes, remove all of the EGR/AIR system parts. The tubes behind the heads, the TAB/TAD and EGR solenoid by the coil...all the vacuum lines and actuators, all that crap.
You don't want to just unplug the EGR and leave it. Remove it and make a sheet metal block off plate and paint it with high temp paint. Bolt it on with a gasket and you're all set.
That pipe is not at the back of the intake, it is the back of the cylinder heads.
You can reach them without too much trouble.
You could leave the air pump there...but why? It's messy and unnecessary. And what if it fails/locks up? It will if water gets in it. The idler pulley air pump delete for a 5.0 mustang will fit and its about $50.
Yes, remove all of the EGR/AIR system parts. The tubes behind the heads, the TAB/TAD and EGR solenoid by the coil...all the vacuum lines and actuators, all that crap.
You don't want to just unplug the EGR and leave it. Remove it and make a sheet metal block off plate and paint it with high temp paint. Bolt it on with a gasket and you're all set.
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From: Oxford, ME
Thanks conanski for the great pictures, so much easier to know what im going after now that I can visualize it! not hte easiest to look in between the motor and hte firewall. mustanggt221, will removing all the egr valve and leaving the wires unhooked cause me to have a check engine light/put the computer in limp mode? seems like some say leave it in place and hooked up with a blockoff plate between it and the manifold and others say remove it all together? if i can get away without purchasing a kit to remove it that'd be great, i know its been done. Sorry for the basic kind of questions i have done some reading on this but i want to make sure i do this right the first time! Thanks again for all the help!
FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Yes it will, like I said you're better off leaving this system alone unless the EGR tube is leaking, and if that's the case then put a blockoff plate between the valve and intake but leave everything else conneced normally.
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