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It never fails, I'm just going to change out the inside door latch release mechanism (whatever it's really called) with a new one because the original one on my '56 is rusted and the lever spins around without opening or locking the door and now I can't even move the d$%n thing to get the door open or locked.
I think it's because when I had the door latch out to remove the whatever it's really called part I shot Triflow on the moving parts to make sure it worked real good. Apparently I traumatized the old parts with the new-fangled oil and teflon.
I'll be going home early from work tonight to see if I can make it all better. All this so I can drive to the GoodGuys show this weekend in Pleasanton and park it in the car corral for sale.
Bummer, you finally get most of the kinks worked out, and now you're going to sell it?
FWIW, Ihad that happen on an old Chevy PU I had, no way to get to it, so I used a big holesaw and cut a piece out in order to pull the rod to unluck it...then welded the piece back in.
Yeah I know Mike, it seems a little dumb to be trying to sell, especially these days, but I have this little British car sitting in the garage next to the truck and it's crying out for a BMW K1100 twin cam head conversion. I need the money and space to do it.
Wish me luck folks! I'm heading back out to the garage to battle the evil door latch mechanism from H. E. double hockey sticks. I'll let you know how it goes.
OK, so for those of you that might be buying internal door parts from any of the suppliers out there be sure to check the operation of anything you buy. When I took the "Remote Door Latch Register" (aka "whatever it's really called") out I found that the bar attached to the lever that in turn attaches to the door latch was siezed on the rivet used to attach it. So, it was not loose like the original and would not rotate easily.
I've drilled the rivet out and will use another with a spacer between the parts to prevent it from binding up again. Poor installation of the rivet messed up the whole thing.