I want to upgrade my wiring harness. I am looking at this wiring harness kit: Highway 15 Street Rod Wiring Kit

I've got virtually no experience installing something like this, but I'm pretty handy and usually pretty good at figuring things out if I study it enough to get an understanding of how it works. I'd like to ask a favor of some of the more electrically inclined forumites...would you please take a look at this harness and give me your assessment as to it's applicability to my 1960 F100 and also your opinion about how difficult it would be to install. My truck is pretty much no frills. I will be going to electric wipers, may at some point add an electric fan, possibly a modern stereo, but nothing major. I have the original 223 6cyl w/3-spd manual trans. Just really want to bring the electrical system up to date for reliability and safety's sake.

I'll no doubt be needing help so I guess I'm asking for a little reassurance that I can get GIT-R-DUN with some input from you guys (and gals--hint to Julie).

Oh, they also sell an "enhancement kit" for running modern headlights. I currently use my high-beams all the time and no one ever flashes me back--really want to upgrade that.

Thanks...

...just read the "Electrical Wizard" thread--good info--I'd like to add that I have a 1965 F100 alternator and voltage regulator in my truck.

 

Well, so much for Subtlety - tee hee.

Ok lets start at the begining and get you thinking down a good path.

People think electricity is difficult simply because they don't understand it. If you can do your brakes, then you are handy enough to rewire your truck.

Remember this - first and foremost: All you are doing with wiring is connecting something that needs power to a power source with a wire that has connectors on each end - that's all - connecting the dots.

Whether you choose to use a (and let me get AXs names right here) Stock wiring harness, a rewiring kit, or wire from scratch using rolls of wire, it's all very simple. There are three very strong recommendation I have that will make the task a breeze:

1) Planning is essential. Know what you would like to put on your truck, and where you want to put it. Then plan for it. Draw yourself out a schematic drawing (and again it's just connecting the dots) that shows your "signal flow." I have some in my #4 gallery that you can look at and if you like those I will send you the MS Power Point file and you can use them as a baseline for making your own drawing. Chances are you would just be changing line colors. The drawings will work great for your truck as is.

In your planning include items you may want to add later and make provisions for them - both electrically (make sure you have a powerful enough Alternator), and physically - enough fuse places.

As you wire, if you make any changes, update the drawing. When you are done it will be the custom electrical road map for your truck. It will be easy to add things later if you plan them in now and have a "home" ready for them in your system when you are ready to install them.

2) You need a reliable and simple power supply and distridution system. I highly recommend you spend the $150 for a GM or newly manufactured "One wire" alternator (NO generators) to provide you with the margin of power supply you will need. The GM conversions are well documented here and I have those links saved if you need them. I bought a "Tough Stuff" one wire alternator that is fantastic. I have their site link as well.

You will need to distribute power out to each item you have - lets call those appliances. Each appliance should have it's own fuse. So, you will need fuse blocks or busses. You will need a dual function block or two fuse holders. One is to hold fuses for items that have power supplied all the time - they do not turn off with the ignition switch. They're called "HOT" items and include: Running lights, parking lights, brake lights, horn, cigarette lighter, interior light, hazard lights (if installed), and glove box light. The second fuse holder (or other side of the dual function fuse block) will handle the "SWITCHED" items. These are called this because they are switched on when you turn on the key. They include: radio, gauges, signal lights, wipers, and heater.

3) Lastly, do not be intimidated. When you get your harness, kit or wires, follow your plan, label each wire if not done already, and connect one item at a time-appliance to power source (fuse place), appliance to power source and so on. When you have it all done and everything works, then you can bundle and tuck. Do not use electrical tape to bundle - use nylon ties. They do not get gummy, and you can trace your wires if you need to trouble shoot or add wires to the bundle later.

Take your time and do a little each day. Be patient. It's easier than you think. But remember - no shortcuts or cheezy work. That one hasty fix will make life hell for you forever. Electrical work done right will be one of th ebest thing you will do to make your truck run right and dependable - you will never have to play with wires ever again.

There are lots of threads about rewiring kits like the one you mentioned. I'm not sure about it as I rewired from spool wire. But, I'm sure you will get lots of input on good kits.

Good luck! Take a look at the drawings I mentioned, and if you need ANYTHING, feel free to send me a PM or ask the group for help!

 

It sounds like your looking at the wiring kit from American Autowire. We used the Highway 15 on our '55 with a modern V8 and it worked quite well. Was very complete and easy to use. It does come with a column connector for a GM steering column which may give you a little trouble. I also found that it had limited fuse block connections for switched ignition power. To have the most options possible I would bump up to the Highway 21.

T900

 

Thanks for the input. first stupid question--what is 'switched ignition power'? I didn't catch the GM column hookup on the Autowire kit. I found this kit though: Wiring Harness Hot Rod Wires street rod wiring harness classic car truck harnesses 12 Circuit ...any comments?

They also make an 18 and 24 circuit kit. They list what the extra circuits are for, such as power windows and door locks, but I'm assuming they could be used for anything, is that right?

 

Your right, the circuits can be used for anything you want.

Switched ignition power refers to terminals on the fuse block that are powered only when the ignition switch is in the ON position. There are other terminals that are powered when the ignition switch is in the ACC or ON position and a third group of terminals that are hot regardless of ignition switch position. These are typicaly labeled BATT.

The part that I liked about the American Autowire kit is that the fuse block is not pre-wired. With the kit you are looking at the fuse block is pre-wired so that means you have to wire from the fuse block out, rather from the loads in. For my application I wanted the option of wiring from either direction. I could also wire the truck as systems were added and not have coils of unused wire hanging off the fuse block. However pre-wired fuse blocks are cheaper to make so they typically cost less.

Good luck
T900

 

Sorry I read right past your first question. There are a number of terminals on the fuse block that are battery power which means they are powered regardless of ignition switch being ON, Off, or ACC. Switched ignition power is where the terminals on the fuse block are on only when the ignition is in the ON position (vehicle running) and others are on when the switch is in either ON or ACC.

Hope this helps
T900

 

Note that wiring kits that have the fuse block prewired are no more difficult to work with than the unwired ones, you can remove unused connectors and wires from the fuse block by releasing the locking clip holding it in place with a thin screwdriver or a straightened paper clip.
A very popular kit used by a number of us here (myself included) is the EZ Wire 21 mini fuse. It too (as do most kits) have a column connector that matches the connector and wiring in a GM or aftermarket column such as Ididit or Flaming River. But mine also included a connector adapter and short harness to connect to that connector and instructions on how to hard wire it into a Ford or Mopar column. I didn't use the adapter as I also installed an Ididit tilting column.
Do a search on my user name here and wiring, for the post where I compare wiring to pumbing for electrons, if you can run a water line you have the basic understanding and can wire your truck. I have also explained several times how to start off preparing, dividing and simplifying the wiring kit for use so you don't get overwelmed.
As Kat on LA Ink is so fond of saying: It's not rocket surgery!"

 

"It's not Rocket Surgery!"

I like that!