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The clutch on my AC compressor is totally, completely, undeniably fragged. It even smells bad.
The Compressor itself is still in very good condition. Can the clutch portion be removed and replaced with the System still charged? Or am I going to end up with a face full of R-12 for my troubles?
Any tips, hints, warnings, etc appreciated. Thanks.
Oh yeah, you probably need to know that it's a 1992 F-150 with 300/M5od. I THINK it's a nippendoso compressor, but that's real vague.
Last edited by heathdaily; Jan 24, 2003 at 07:56 PM.
More likely an FS6, but yes, you can pull the clutch with no chance of releasing the refrigerant. The hard parts will be:
1) catching the shaft key & all the thin washer shims when you pull the actual clutch off the shaft;
2) removing the snap rings that hold the pulley & magnet on;
3) reinstalling the clutch & shimming it for the proper gap.
I haven't looked, but you can probably find instructions & diagrams here.
I'm probably reading your post wrong, but it sounds like you're talking about disassembly of the clutch mechanism. What I had in mind was removing the entire clutch unit from the compressor and replacing it as a unit.
It can't be removed as a unit. It has to be disassembled and the new one (even if bought whole) has to be installed piece by piece. Did you look it up on that link?
I've done several with no problems, but didn't know about setting the gap Steve mentioned. Just used old shims with new clutch. If you know enough to differentiate between the clutch and the compressor I'd say you can handle it. Yes the keystock is tricky and easy to lose. If you're lucky it'll just stay in the shaft. I guess we should both learn more about setting the proper gap, though.
It's very easy & intuitive. Pull the belt, then the center nut, take the clutch off & watch for the key & the shims, then look at it & how it came off and put it back on. Then take it off and do the same with the pulley, then with the magnet. That way, you'll be familiar with it when you put the new one on.
That only leaves me with one question. What is proper gap and how should it be checked? I'm assuming you adjust it by adding or removing shims. Does Ford offer a shim pack for this? Or should the new unit come with extra shims? This may all be obvious when it comes apart, but I have a feeling mine is bad enough that it isn't going to go back together if I need to go parts hunting. I've been driving it this way for a while out of sheer necessity. Matter of fact I'll be driving it this way for another week till the paycheck shows up.
The new clutch should come with shims, and the size of the gap isn't all that important - just set it as close as you can without any dragging when the clutch is turned off.