Broke Plug need advice
Question? What's the best next step at this point? Should I take it into dealership and have them put it on computer to see what's the story or since the plug broke off below the threads should I try and punch it down into the engine and hope I can fish it out by dropping the oil pan. I was planning on replacing the other three COP's on the driver side today just in case one of them was causing the original problem.
Thanks
D
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...nightmare.html
There is a tool listed in the link that can be used for removing the plugs. In my case, I took it to the dealer, and they had to pull the body off the chasis to remove the plugs, breaking 7 of 8 plugs, and the truck only had about 70,000 miles on it. It cost me over $1500 for the change. In addition, either the penetrating oil, or driving for a brief period with a broken plug destroyed my catalytic converter which was another $700 for the converter and two O2 sensors.
This issue is pretty well known, as it happens on the F150's with the 5.4L 3 valve also. Any good mechanic should be able to handle it and can save you money compared to the dealer. Just make sure they use a high temp antiseize on the shield and threads to prevent the issue from happening again.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8219650
. Surprisingly they were able to get it out with a tool they made and only charged me $90 since it was drivers side front and said that if it was in the back that it would have been $250.Here's some cool info I got while I was at the dealership:
1) They use a product by BG that they use to clean the injectors, throttle body and use it as a fogger through the intake that attacks the carbon buildup on the sparkplug electrode housing below the threads where standard penetrating fluid may or may not get to. I got the impression they have mastered this procedure and pull the plugs immediately after the fogging while the plugs are still wet.
2) The mechanic also stated that he gets the best results when the motor is warm not cold like others have mentioned.
3) He pointed out to me that the COP's that I acquired recently on ebay were for a older model 2 valve 5.4 instead of the 04-05 3 valve that I have and the length was a little longer on the ebay ones which could cause excessive bending. I'm guessing they are probably the same just a little longer boot and spring.
4) Mechanic uses a cordless impact drill to get the plugs out, he says it provides just enough but not too much torque to get them moving.
I didn't have the heart to pay $140 for the cleaning and $190 for the plug job plus parts so I'll be tackling the rest of my plugs tomorrow.







