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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 07:54 AM
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Tire pressures

Trying to find the right tire pressures to use. Im running the Pro Comp X all terains (35x12.5xR20E) the door sticker recomendation is for the factory stock tire, not aftermarket. The tire side wall states 65psi max at load. So my question is, is there anyone here using the same or sim tires, and what are you running for PSI? I was running them at 60 psi, there now set at 55psi as they seem to ride better.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 08:58 AM
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rule of thumb in my book is max pressure for max loads, then a visual and look at the wear patterns based upon where you establish your psi.

Over inflated will wear the center, under inflated will wear the edges.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 09:05 AM
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I use pretty much the same idea. I start at 10% under max and tune for comfort and wear. But then there is the chalk line method. Fill the tires up and draw a chalk line across them, ride them for a little ways and read the line. If it doesn't wear the chalk off evenly, then you need to adjust the pressure.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 09:49 AM
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There is nothing wrong with riding on max tire pressure and it will even save the fuel this way.
With the cost of comfort obviously, but comfort in the truck is not too great no matter the tire pressure.
I heard from "green forum" that one of Honda car owners put 45 psi in his wheels for fuel savings. The tires are 30 max rated.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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One of the problems (and where the fuel savings comes in) with over filling is you're reducing the contact patch of the tire. With less contact, you will have less traction for braking and accelerating. When you alter the contact patch, it effects the tires ability to handle acceleration in both forward and side forces, so you will not have as much grip while cornering. I've only read half of Herb Adam's book, but this does make since when you consider vectors and traction.

With bigger tires that have a higher traction rating, running on less patch may not effect performance over stock tires.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 10:41 AM
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I do run mine at max, but then again I am aways hauling something around.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 11:02 AM
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I run mine at max (80lbs) and even then the tires wear a touch more on the outside, which would indicate low pressure.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 11:09 AM
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Running at max while not carrying the max load will result in tire wear in the center of the tire.

An old trick is to paint (I used white interior house paint) a stripe about 1" wide across the tires. Drive the truck straight (works best on a Sunday moring is a parking lot) braking and acclerating (an 1/8 mile usually works). At the end of the run get out and check out where the paint has been scrubbed off. In the center, too much air, on the sides, not enough air.

Usually however, never run less then 50% of the max air pressure or excess heat may result.

On my '03 F250 6.0 CC, LB 4x4 with 265/75R16 I'm running 55 psi front and 40 psi rear. Have been doing so for 30K since the tires were new and they look great, nice even tread wear. I also rotate them every 10K. I'm expecting 70K out of them with no problem. (Michelin XTL's M/S - 90% of my running is highway) Just my $0.02.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 09:42 PM
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Just took the same tire off my truck, only in a 17 inch rim. I ran them at 50 psi. empty. 65 psi was max on the side wall at max wieight, 50 seems good on my BFGs also, when empty any thing more than that makes for a rough ride, but like others have said watch your tire wear and adjust accordingly.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 10:57 PM
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I now set mine at the pressure recommended on the door sticker, because of this TSB:

TSB
06-22-14 STEERING WHEEL OSCILLATION

Publication Date: October 25, 2006

FORD: 2005-2007 F-Super Duty



This article supersedes TSB 06-15-1 to update the service labor operations.

ISSUE:
Some 2005-2007 F-Super Duty vehicles may exhibit steering wheel oscillation (back and forth motion), immediately following front or rear wheel impacts (i.e. pavement joints, frost heaves, rough roads, etc.). Steering wheel motion is typically in the range of ± 5 degrees, and typically dampens out in fewer than five oscillations. This condition occurs mostly on 4X4 vehicles, and is more evident on trucks equipped with a gas engine.

ACTION:
Refer to the following Service Procedure to minimize the steering wheel oscillations on impacts, however, there may be some remaining minor oscillation which would be considered normal.

SERVICE PROCEDURE SUMMARY

Set tire pressure and road test vehicle to evaluate vehicle before proceeding with further repairs. If issue is resolved, do not proceed with the rest of this TSB
If concern still exists, check steering damper for leaks; torque steering and suspension fasteners per Workshop Manual
If concern still exists, check front alignment and reduce front caster
Replacement of redundant control steering wheel (if equipped and vehicle built prior to 10/8/2004)
VEHICLE INSPECTION - TIRE PRESSURE

Set tire pressures as indicated on the vehicle label (located on driver's door label).
NOTE: SETTING TIRE PRESSURE TO DOOR SPECIFICATION IS ONE OF THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT MEASURES IN RESOLVING THIS ISSUE. LOWERING TIRE PRESSURE WILL MAKE THIS ISSUE WORSE.



ROAD TEST

Ask customer what type of road surface and speed generates the steering wheel oscillation.
Road test vehicle on similar road surface and speed, to gain a feel for the customer's issue.
If no issues are identified during the road test, do not proceed with the rest of this TSB.
STEERING DAMPER INSPECTION AND STEERING/SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE CHECK

Wipe down and inspect the steering damper. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times to cycle the steering damper and inspect for leaks.
If leaks are present, install a new steering damper.
Check torques on the following steering and suspension fasteners and adjust to specification as required (see following Table).

Torque Specification
Description Lb-ft Nm
Damper nuts (4X2) 59 80
Damper-to-bracket (F-250, F-350 4X4) 26 35
Damper-to-drag link 67 91
Drag link-to-pitman arm nut 148 201
Inner tie-rod end nuts 85 115
Outer tie-rod end nuts 85 115
Track bar bracket-to-frame nuts and bolts 129 175
Track bar-to-track bar bracket bolt 406 550
Track bar-to-axle nut 185 250
Radius arm to axle bolts 222 300
Radius arm to bracket nut 222 300


NOTE: ADJUSTING TORQUE ON STEERING AND SUSPENSION FASTENERS IS VERY IMPORTANT IN RESOLVING THIS ISSUE. FASTENERS THAT ARE IMPROPERLY TORQUED WILL MAKE THIS ISSUE WORSE.



FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT AND REDUCE FRONT CASTER

NOTE: OSCILLATION ISSUES RESOLVED BY WHEEL ALIGNMENT ARE WARRANTED FOR 12/12 ONLY, REGARDLESS OF OTHER STEPS PERFORMED.



Measure wheel alignment. Verify that Front Caster, Camber, and Total Toe are within specification. Adjust as required. Refer to the Workshop Manual, Section 204-00 for complete alignment specifications.

REDUCE FRONT CASTER

Note the current front caster
Use alignment adjustment bushings to reduce front caster by 0.5 to 0.75 degrees. The caster setting may be at the lower end of the specification as long as the vehicle drives smoothly. Do not put caster setting below the lower specification limit. Use alignment adjustment bushings
F-250/350 4X4:

5C3Z-3B440-CCC (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-DDD (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-EEE (1.0 degree bushing)
F-450/550 4X4 and 4X2:

5C3Z-3B440-HHH (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-JJJ (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-KKK (1.0 degree bushing)
F-250/350 4X2:

5C3Z-3B440-C (0.5 degree busing)
5C3Z-3B440-D (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-E (1.0 degree bushing)
For All 4X4 and for F-450/550 4X2:

Rotate the alignment adjustment bushing so that the bushing hole is in the 45 degree forward and inboard position (See Figure 1)



Figure 1 - Article 06-22-14


This should lower the caster, while keeping the camber within the specification range. If the camber is not in the specification range than rotate the alignment adjustment bushing as needed
The final caster and camber settings must be within the specification limits
Maintain the current front camber, cross-camber and cross-caster settings as close as you possibly can
Adding weight behind the rear axle lowers the rear of the vehicle, which decreases the frame angle, which in effect increases caster
For All F-250/350 4X2:

Observe the camber position of the alignment bushing that is currently in the truck and attempt to maintain that position while moving the caster position forward in the truck
The final caster and camber settings must be within the specification limits
NOTE: CASTER SETTING IS VERY IMPORTANT IN RESOLVING THIS ISSUE. INCREASING THE CASTER SETTING WILL MAKE THIS ISSUE WORSE.



REPLACEMENT OF REDUNDANT CONTROL STEERING WHEEL - Vehicles Built Prior To 10/8/2004 Only

NOTE: THE REPLACEMENT STEERING WHEEL WILL CONTAIN THE REDUNDANT CONTROLS.



Remove driver air bag assembly. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 211-04 for complete instructions.
Remove the steering wheel.
Install new steering wheel.
Reinstall driver air bag assembly.
Re-set clear vision as required.
NOTE: FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, PLEASE REFER TO SECTION 211-04 OF THE WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR COMPLETE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION PROCEDURES FOR THE STEERING COLUMN.






PART NUMBER PART NAME
5C7Z-3600-ABA Redundant Control Steering Wheel Assy (King Ranch Tan/Peb)
5c7z-3600-CBA Redundant Control Steering Wheel Assy (Charcoal Black)
5C3Z-3E651-D Steering Damper
5C3Z-3B440-C F-250/350 4X2 (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-D F-250/350 4X2 (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-E F-250/350 4X2 (1.0 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-CCC F-250/350 4X4 (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-DDD F-250/350 4X4 (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-EEE F-250/350 4X4 (1.0 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-HHH F-450/550 4X4 and 4X2 (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-JJJ F-450/550 4X4 and 4X2 (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-KKK F-450/550 4x4 and 4x2 (1.0 degree bushing)

NOTE: LABOR OPERATIONS IN THIS TSB CAN BE CLAIMED TOGETHER.



NOTE: OSCILLATION ISSUES RESOLVED BY WHEEL ALIGNMENT ARE WARRANTED FOR 12/12 ONLY, REGARDLESS OF OTHER STEPS PERFORMED.




WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
062214A 2005-2007 F-Super Duty: Check Tire Pressure, Road Test To Verify Repair, Concern Resolved, Return To Customer (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 0.4 Hr.
062214B 2005-2007 F-Super Duty: Check Tire Pressure, Road Test To Verify Repair, Concern Not Resolved, Check Steering Damper Replace If Necessary, Verify Proper Torque On Steering Components, Road Test If Concern Is Resolved Return To Customer (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 1.4 Hrs.
062214C 2005-2007 F-Super Duty 250/350 4X2 SINGLE REAR WHEEL: Check And Adjust Front Wheel Alignment, This Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With Operation B Only (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 1.5 Hrs.
062214C 2005-2007 F-Super Duty 250/350 4X4 SINGLE REAR WHEEL: Check And Adjust Front Wheel Alignment, This Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With Operation B Only (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 1.8 Hrs.
062214D 2005-2007 F-Super Duty 250/350 4X2 DUAL REAR WHEEL: Check And Adjust Front Wheel Alignment, This Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With Operation B Only (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 1.9 Hrs.
062214D 2005-2007 F-Super Duty 250/350 4X4 DUAL REAR WHEEL: Check And Adjust Front Wheel Alignment, This Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With Operation B Only (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 2.1 Hrs.
062214D 2005-2007 F-Super Duty F450/550 4X2/4X4 DUAL REAR WHEEL: Check And Adjust Front Wheel Alignment, This Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With Operation B Only (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 2.3 Hrs.
062214E 2005-2007 F-Super Duty With Redundant Steering Control Built Prior To 10-8-2004: Replace Steering Wheel, Includes Time To Depower And Repower The Supplemental Restraints System Can Be Claimed With Operation A Or B (Do Not Use With 1007D, 3001A, 3001A1, 3001A6, 3600A) 0.7 Hr.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
(Operation A) NPF 82
(Operation B) 3E651 42
(Operation C) FRONT W6
(Operation D) Front W6
(Operation E) 3600 42

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

Copyright © 2006 Ford Motor Company
 
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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 06:57 AM
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Thanks everyone for the imput. I will look into the chalk or paint method, that looks to be a good base line to start with.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 06:59 AM
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Remember that the door sticker is developed using a specific tire. Once you deviate from the stock tire (whether you change size, load range, construction type, etc) this door sticker is almost completely useless.

For example, the door sticker on my wife's SUV states it should be run at 35 psi. But I noticed the sides were wearing faster, so I bumped 'em up to 40. It rides a tiny bit rougher but the tires are wearing properly. My truck is having an alignment issue, so I'm not counting it yet.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Sand_Man
I run mine at max (80lbs) and even then the tires wear a touch more on the outside, which would indicate low pressure.
Or hard cornering. On our sedans I always put about 10% more pressure than max recommended, yet still sides wear lower than center.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 04:01 PM
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I jsut bought a 2010 250 super crew. The low tire pressure light came on and I checked the tires and all were a 60 psi. The sticker inside the door said to run 75 psi which seems a little high if you are not loaded. I inflated the tires to 65 psi and the low tire light went off. I guess 65 psi will be the lowest pressure I can use and not have the low pressure light on. I figure this light will dictate how low we can go with tire pressure.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 99powerstrokedF250
Remember that the door sticker is developed using a specific tire. Once you deviate from the stock tire (whether you change size, load range, construction type, etc) this door sticker is almost completely useless.

For example, the door sticker on my wife's SUV states it should be run at 35 psi. But I noticed the sides were wearing faster, so I bumped 'em up to 40. It rides a tiny bit rougher but the tires are wearing properly. My truck is having an alignment issue, so I'm not counting it yet.

I know, I dont ever look a the door sticker, I just run the tire pressure that gives me the performance I want, better MPG,towing,M+S, etc.
 
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