What Tachometer...
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What Tachometer...
Well i was thinking about putting a Tachometer on my truck, but i still up and down with it.
Does anyone think its worth for my truck (its a 4.9L 4X4 1994 F-150 XLT Stick Shift)??
If so how would it benefit me with it?
Also any kind of brand or anything that is a really good one for my truck.
Thanks
nighthawk283
Does anyone think its worth for my truck (its a 4.9L 4X4 1994 F-150 XLT Stick Shift)??
If so how would it benefit me with it?
Also any kind of brand or anything that is a really good one for my truck.
Thanks
nighthawk283
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Joined: Sep 2001
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I would get a factory tach, but if you want a nice little add on tach then get this one from Sunpro and mount it on the steering column just opposite of where the column shifter would be. The one I had before I got a factory tach was like this but all black. I guess the stopped making it. You can make it light up green like your dash with what I call a bulb condom. LOL... Its a little rubber cap for the bulb.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUN-CP7908/
I still vote for this setup. This is mine. Its actually a Lightning cluster. The stock cluster looks the same except for the 120 speedo, orange needls and the redline mark. Its a plug and play swap. Since your truck is a 94 get a cluster from a 94 or 95.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUN-CP7908/
I still vote for this setup. This is mine. Its actually a Lightning cluster. The stock cluster looks the same except for the 120 speedo, orange needls and the redline mark. Its a plug and play swap. Since your truck is a 94 get a cluster from a 94 or 95.
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From: Indio,California
wouldn't you have to get a dash cluster out of a straight 6??? iv'e been looking fo one for mine and there all V8's. was just thinking of getting an autometer tack and put it in a pillar pod
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Most aftermarket tachs do have the switch for 4,6,8 cylinders. The stock gas cluster should work with the I6. I know people on this site have done it and it worked out fine. Personally I think those big tachs look stupid in street cars/trucks. It looks like its pretending to be fast.
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The tach wiring is all built into the harness that connects to the back of the cluster. All you need to do is connect a cluster with a tachometer.
Gas engine types do not matter, 300, 302, 351, 460, all work the same. You just need to make sure you get a cluster for your particular dash revision, in your case, 94-95.
Scrapyards are the best bet, but they can also be found on eBay and other sources from time to time. I bought mine from another FTE member.
EDIT: It's also worth noting that you can swap your PSOM from your existing cluster to the new one, so your mileage will remain the same.
Gas engine types do not matter, 300, 302, 351, 460, all work the same. You just need to make sure you get a cluster for your particular dash revision, in your case, 94-95.
Scrapyards are the best bet, but they can also be found on eBay and other sources from time to time. I bought mine from another FTE member.
EDIT: It's also worth noting that you can swap your PSOM from your existing cluster to the new one, so your mileage will remain the same.
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Yep, just swap it out. Be carefull with the PRNDL shift indicator, don't kink or break the tube/wire. It can be swapped out in a few minutes. You may want to replace all the wedge bulbs in it with new ones so you don't have to pull it out again to replace burnt out ones.
First remove the headlight ****. This is a little tricky. There is a tab on the bottom that you use a small screwdriver or pick and pull out. Sometimes it can be a little hard. By the way when you put it back on later, don't push it in too far or your lights won't turn off.
Next, remove the 2 trim peices on the gauge bezel. They look like the strip that goes across the dash with the XL or XLT on it. These just pop off.
Then, remove the 2 screws and carefully pop off the bezel, there are tabs on the top. Then unplug the fuel tank selector switch.
Now remove the cluster. There are about 4-6 little screws, with hex heads. A nut driver works well here. Then unplug the 3 connectors on the back of the cluster. Don't damage the circuit board on the back.
First remove the headlight ****. This is a little tricky. There is a tab on the bottom that you use a small screwdriver or pick and pull out. Sometimes it can be a little hard. By the way when you put it back on later, don't push it in too far or your lights won't turn off.
Next, remove the 2 trim peices on the gauge bezel. They look like the strip that goes across the dash with the XL or XLT on it. These just pop off.
Then, remove the 2 screws and carefully pop off the bezel, there are tabs on the top. Then unplug the fuel tank selector switch.
Now remove the cluster. There are about 4-6 little screws, with hex heads. A nut driver works well here. Then unplug the 3 connectors on the back of the cluster. Don't damage the circuit board on the back.
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Oh alright i will, i see now, it looks like i am going to but a OEM so i be doing that soon, and i going to replace the bulbs with LED 194 to look like 9.ford.5 and then i be placing that in, its so exciting have a new look. and i like that i can just connect it and the RPM are already all hook up so i just plug and play. i like that a lot
