Hello everyone, I need some help with a problem I'm having with my 65 352 2v 2100 autolite carb . It is running fine, but floods after I drive it to normal operating temp and shut it off for a while(20 -30 min) and try to restart it. I've done kits twice now with no fix. Any ideas welcomed...jim

 

Have you changed your fuel filter? What knida stuff is coming out of the fuel line? You just might need to clean your whole fuel system.

 

I had a problem that may have been similar. Try to follow me on this and see if yours is doing the same thing.

Mine would run fine from a cold start. Drive it as much or little as you like but it would be warm. Stop to get gas or what-have-you and shut it off. Restart ten minutes later (starts fine) but you'd get a quarter mile down the road and it would lose power and sometimes shut off. Usually would start right up again and after nursing it a bit down the road it would then run ok.

Mine acted like it was running out of fuel but it would also belch some black smoke like it was rich. Everyone, including me, thought it was vapor locking and we tried all the usual fixes for that. Nothing worked.

Eventually, I played with the mixture settings. When I had rebuilt the carb when I got the truck I just reset the needles where they had been. Turns out the truck was leaned way out (screws in too far) by the PO who was obsessed with fuel mileage (truck came with an extensive log of it's MPG capabilities). A crank or two out and the problem went away. It may be worth checking where yours are since you've had it apart twice.

 

Try running it to temp and do a shut off in your drive. Disconnect the fuel line at carb and push an empty ketchup container like found in a diner into the carb's fuel inlet, and squeeze it. If gas burbles out of the top of slosh tubes, needle isnt seating.

If it is seating, while engine is still warm, remove top of carb and check float level. Sounds like it may be sitting too high and needs adjustment. Check the rebuild kit instructions or manual for spec.

 

I would look at a couple of things when dealing with any old carb with slight flooding. Did you measure and or inspect your float height? This would seem the most likely if the carb was rebuilt recently. Check to make sure the float floats. The brass ones can get pin holes. The foam type can get saturated. You might take a look at the needle and seat and check the sides of the needle and the sides of the seat too for varnish, galling, or debris hanging up the float. Make sure the tank and or cap is properly vented. Some carbs will leak at the base gasket usually evident by gas on the manifold when shut off. Is gas up at the top of the vent tube or dripping off a booster when running? Oh, almost forgot the obvious, make sure the choke is off or not sticking. Just some suggestions, good luck.

 

Thanks for all the ideas guys.gangstakr, There's no sediment in the fuel float chamber so I'm thinking no fuel line problems. ddavidv,I will try riching the idle mix.46yblock, theejohnnnyb, I will check the float level,but have had two different floats and needle& seats in it with no change. I have noticed air bubbles coming up from the main metering jets with the float removed on a warm engine,and on a cold engine have noticed low fuel level in float chamber.My guess is fuel seeping through jets or power valve into throttle. more info means more ideas.sorry guys. duh

 

Might look for one of those thick carb base gaskets. Sounds like a heat soak problem to me.

 

I agree. The 2100s are really basic. To get a flooding problem after shutoff, gas can only be coming from a still pressurized fuel line through a leaky needle, from the float bowl which has a gas heat soak and thus gasoline volume expansion inside the bowl, or from a faulty power valve/gasket.
It wont be from leaking jets, they are meant to leak at metered amounts. Even if one jet was passing gas between threads it wouldnt produce flooding at shut down, just very rich running conditions.

 

46y,
I really liked your ketchup bottle tech. I will remember that one. I would strongly recommend trying this, as although new, the float height may be set incorrectly from the box. (you can blow into a section of rubber hose attached to the carb too if you don't want to empty your ketchup bottle yet). From the description so far it sounds like the float is just a hair from completely closing the needle.

 

Are you by chance using any fuel supply components such as running an electric pump?
I didn't see that you mentioned anything, so we are working on the assumption that you have a stock system.

 

As far as power valves , I have just about wore it out replacing them. This last kit I got off of ebay ( motorcraft CT-499-D D4AZ-9A586-A) hoping since it is genuine ford it would fix it. I wonder if it could be the gas itself being a alcohol mix? In the past after it warmed up, it would start so fast, you couldn't get your hand off the switch fast enough .Also I have pulled the top off and checked the fuel level in the float bowl when cold and it's down. She's stock, Banjo

 

A retired mechanic friend uses ketchup bottle tech after putting in a kit, with carb on bench, float bowl full, and gas in bottle. I started doing it too. Thought maybe using it empty on a hot engine would be safer.

 

The fuel pump will not make any pressure once the engine is off. Remember that the diaphram only moves if the arm is.

I would lean toward the heat soak idea. If you don't have the 1/2 inch intake spacer under the carb it can affect it. If you do have the spacer installed, pull it off and clean it out. The sludge/carbon that clogs it up will hold heat. Over time the oil vapors from the engine pulled out with the PCV accumilates. Also remember that the flow of "air" through the spacer helps cool it and preheat the intake charge. Does your have the coolant passage are well?

My personal favorite carb/oil cleaner is easy off or dallor store oven cleaner. Easy off is stronger thought. It cuts through everything and takes off bad paint as well. Remember to rinse it well otherwise the easy off will stat to corrode the spacer faster since it is aluminum. And please where rubber gloves and safety glasses, it is a carbon cleaner and as such will remove skin if left on long enough...

 

OK, I think I'm getting the jist of it. I'm going to re check my float level, then see about an aluminum plate to go between my intake and bakelite? PCV plate. Question.. Will a Holley 2 bl be the same mount? I'm thinking they will. If so Advance,NAPA and so on will have one. Maybe I'm getting ahead of myself. I will check and clean the PCV spacer then install aluminum plate. It's gotta be fixed!! It's embarrassing to try starting it when I'm at town!!

 

My 66 has a 352 with Carter 4 barrel on it. It has just started showing some of the same symptoms. On flat ground it goes well. When you start to pull grade it slowly dies. Pull off to the side of the road pull the choke and it will start right up. Need to nurse it to the top and then it runs fine. What should I be looking at? TIA