Well last year i managed to lose the little E clip that holds my kickdown rod in place. An i believe that it had messed up my tranny since then. From reading, its doing exactly as describbed as what a tranny would do if it didnt have a kickdown rod.

So today im in search of another E clip. Than i want to hopefully get it adjusted right onto the transmission. But im not sure how to properlly adjust it and where it all needs to go?

Any and all help welcomed! Thanks.

 

If you have the c6 in your signature, having the kickdown rod disconnected should not affect the normal operation of the tranny. If it's pulled into "kickdown mode" it might, but just sitting there disconnected you will only lose the kickdown feature. I have run several of these trannies for years with it disconnected, just because I didn't have the special linkage to fit the different carb I had installed, and they all worked fine.

Now if you have a overdrive tranny, that's a different story.

 

Give details about the issue you are having. You may actually have 2 problems, disconnected kickdown resulting in not downshifting under hard accel, and bad modulator valve resulting in delayed upshifts when accelerating....... Also the latter can be from no/poor vacuum signal to the modulator valve in trans.

 

Okay, well according to the transmission pan this is indeed a c6 tranny.

Frank, no this doesnt affect my normal driving around ability. It only affects me when i step on it which is what has me thinking that it really is the kickdown rod.


The overall problem is only when i step on it hard. I normally will be moving already, then when i punch it its as if my tranny wont go into the next gear. Its like its almost in neutral and im revving it. BUT if im doing this and it starts doing that i can let go of the accelerater and go right back down and its like it will manually shift it this way.

 

i'm with frank on this. my 85 4x4 w/c-6 didnt have the kick down and it had no problems, i think theres a vacuum problem, cause even without the kick down, if i mashed it, it would downshift and haul @$$

 

" Also the latter can be from no/poor vacuum signal to the modulator valve in trans."

What do you mean by this, and how do i know if this would be the problem?

Thanks.

 

well if i remember right, havent had a c-6 in a while, you can start by checking the vacuum line that runs to the modulator on the tranny. i think it's on drivers side after the pan ends

 

Yes, it's on the backside of the trans, above the pan, but I believe it's on the pass side.
Should be the only vacuum line going to the trans, and it should have full manifold vacuum to it with the engine running.
First thing, unhook the hose with the engine off. If trans fluid drips out, the modulator is bad. If no fluid drips out, start the engine, and see if it has a strong vacuum.

 

Yesterday before i saw your post i checked the line. The line that was on there was fairly old but seemed of no holes or anything.

Anways i removed old hose and went to auto store and got a peice of fuel hosing and replaced it. I then, with the truck running i checked the the vaccum and it seemed to be fairly strong. It would suck onto finger easily...

Almost when i removed the hose the truck wasn't running and i didnt notice any fluid.

When removing the hose while running it caused the truck to run different, somewhat louder really. Is that just because it has a vaccum leak since its off? Also is the use for this vaccum line.

 

Definately sounds like it's got a good vacuum source to the mod valve.
No fluid dripping does not rule out a possible bad mod valve completely. The valve can still be bad, without the fluid leak.
The symptoms you describe sound like the mod valve could be the issue, or it could be from the kickdown rod being off, and wedged into the "WOT" position so the trans "thinks" you have the pedal matted all the time.
The kickdown rod hooks on the carb, as you already noted, with the "E" clip, but other methods can also secure it. It hooks to the trans by the selector rod. There's not much adjustment needed.

 

Okay, well is there anyway to tell if the mod valve is bad since there isnt any fluid?

What does "WOT" mean??

How am i able to tell if the rod is wedged into the WOT position?

I now have a proper e clip holding the kickrod on, and it runs completely to the trans. But what actually moves this rod so that it will actually work? The whole thing will move when i push on it, but im going to use some carb cleaner and clean the connecters where its on the tranny so it will move alittle more free.

 

WOT = Wide Open Throttle.
Sounds like it's back hooked up right. It's setup to where the throttle linkage operates the bar when the throttle is pushed far enough.

There's a way to test the mod valve, but I'm not sure what the best way is.

 

Well id like to test this valve if possible. If worst is worst, does this sound like my tranny is going bad??

I took some pictures if they would help yall see if theres something wrong. Also i have a quick question.



This is a picture of where the kickdown rod is being connected. Also on this area are i believe two wires?? Is that how the kickdown runs? Or what are they there for?



Sorry for crappy phone pictures... It was weird lighting also so...

Now i have two questions on these areas..



Okay so i believe this is for accelerating, but why is this dissconnected? Also i can't really find where it would hook up?

Also in the picture you can see i don't have a dashpot? Is this screwing anything up? Do i need to get one?



Okay so this is right behind my carb/intake if you can't tell. But what im wondering is about the tube/hosing that is running in the middle of the picture with several other tubes coming off it.

Is this like a main air line? Is this hot air or just fresh air coming through it? Am i able to hook other lines into it?

THANK YOU SO MUCH YALL! Also sorry for the picture happy post, but im just wanting/needing to know what these things are so i can properlly work on my truck! Thanks.

 

Okay real quick also, where is this modulator? What would a new one cost? How hard are they to replace??

 

the modulator valve is just above the pan on the pass side,just did mine on the last oil change it was $13,takes longer getting on ur back than change it ,also i would change the vaccum line it might be colapsing on u.