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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

My first F150

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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #1  
texaskid22's Avatar
texaskid22
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My first F150

Well it is a work in progress..... I've done the ball joints and I'm hoping to do the radius arm bushings (at least thats what I think they are called) to keep my wheel from moving front to back/making noise. My truck is in horrible mechanical condition, I'm not going to win any mechanic of the year awards either when it comes to Ford, I'm in the dark. I've been trying to read all I can while not at work about how to get my horrible running rich problem solved...


1985 F150 302 AOD 2Bbl feedback carb (or so I believe it is)

I've tried turning the two mixture screws in with no success (Choke is working correctly). I replaced the accelerator pump with a new diaphragm and noticed the orange plug aka check valve was missing. (the pump was leaking). The distributor has a vacuum port on it but when I try to connect it to the carb it will not start or run no matter how much I turn the distributor but it could be due to me connecting it to a improper vacuum source.

I bought a holley 1850 4Bbl carb and a performer intake manifold, but I've been reading about the AOD TV cable and the troubles with it. I'm tempted to risk downing my truck (currently the primary vehicle) for me to disassemble this carb for a day or two and rebuilding it.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 04:42 PM
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From: North Houston... Tomball
i have the same carb on my 84 f150 i keep the electric choke off caused me 2 many problems, nothing a pump of the gas wont fix. i put an inch riser on mine because the air to it isint great.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 02:08 AM
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still not sure what to do... I really need to figure out a plan, the duraspark with the non feedback 2100/2150 sounds like the ticket but I'm not sure where to find the parts..
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 12:28 PM
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LARIAT 85
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Welcome, Texaskid22. I also have a 1985 F150 302 AOD and I HAD the 2Bbl feedback carburetor, so you sound like where I was a few years ago when I first started mine.

First, it was wise to go ahead and fix the ball joints and radius arm bushings. I would strongly suggest checking your rag joint and tie rods while you are at it. I had to replace ALL of this on my truck and it now rides like NEW.

Because you have an '85 model, the fuel delivery is a bit more complicated. As you know, the 1984 and early 1985 302 came stock with the Motorcraft 2150 feedback carburetor and TFI igntion/EEC-IV computer. Being as your truck is 25 years old though, anything could have been changed, so it would be helpful to know exactly what you have first...

The distributor has a vacuum port on it but when I try to connect it to the carb it will not start or run no matter how much I turn the distributor but it could be due to me connecting it to a improper vacuum source.
This is what I mean right here. Your distributor should NOT have a vacuum port, unless someone has changed it out. The air/fuel mixture and timing is suppossed to be handled by the EEC-IV computer, so you should have no vacuum advance. This is probably why your truck is running rich.

Are you running a stock Ford or aftermarket distributor? Check to see if you have an ignition module with a bunch or wires leading to it bolted to the side of your distributor. If you don't have one, see if you have a silver, square box mounted to the driver's side inner fender.

You have to understand that, originally, your truck worked as an entire system. The EEC-IV computer operates the emissions system, the ignition system, and the air/fuel mixture your truck has, so changing ANY of these components will affect everything else. You cannot just bolt on a different carburetor without wrecking havoc on the EEC-IV computer system that controls your truck. The computer will not be able to "read" the air/fuel mixture, which means it will lock the timing, and that will affect drivability, economy, and performance.

Does your state require emissions testing, and are all of your emissions components in place? If so, your only option will be to rebuild the original "feedback" carburetor and get your truck running as it should. But unless you have the correct distributor and ignition components, you are wasting your time rebuilding it.

I bought a holley 1850 4Bbl carb and a performer intake manifold, but I've been reading about the AOD TV cable and the troubles with it. I'm tempted to risk downing my truck (currently the primary vehicle) for me to disassemble this carb for a day or two and rebuilding it.
YES, the AOD TV cable (your truck should have a TV rod) has to be hooked up and properly adjusted, or you will destroy it - fast. I would highly recommend getting a transmission shop to do that for you. If you decide to use the Holley, you will need an AOD linkage corrector plate, or else the AOD will not shift right. But if you go with the Holley, you are going to have to change out your entire ignition system, unless it has already been changed out.

But before you go that route, you need to figure out what components your truck has or doesn't have before we can make a proper diagnosis.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 12:40 PM
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look up on how to check your tv rod trans pressure, when i installed a new carb on my truck the tv rod was way outta adjustment. if i remember right there is a port on the passenger side of the trans, you can plug a gauge into it and i forgot the pressure you need.

its actually pretty easy to figure out
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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From: patricia ab canada
I've tried turning the two mixture screws in with no success (Choke is working correctly). I replaced the accelerator pump with a new diaphragm and noticed the orange plug aka check valve was missing. (the pump was leaking). The distributor has a vacuum port on it but when I try to connect it to the carb it will not start or run no matter how much I turn the distributor but it could be due to me connecting it to a improper vacuum source.


if you have mixture screws then it's not a feed back carb.the feed back carb used solenoids to do this not screws.it sounds like some one already did the dsII conversion.take some pics of the carb so we know what your dealing with.i feed back carb will lots of wires going to it.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 01:03 PM
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From: Florence, SC
Originally Posted by 86bigred
if you have mixture screws then it's not a feed back carb.the feed back carb used solenoids to do this not screws.it sounds like some one already did the dsII conversion.take some pics of the carb so we know what your dealing with.i feed back carb will lots of wires going to it.
My original Motorcraft 2150 "feedback" carburetor had two mixtures screws in the front, right at the base plate. Every time I adjusted these screws, I had to take the truck out for a test drive because the computer had to "re-learn" the settings. There was a feedback solenoid right at the throttle arm.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 02:15 PM
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Excellent information, Lariat 85! I tried to "rep" you, but was unable to due to having done so before. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 02:30 PM
  #9  
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From: patricia ab canada
well you learn something new every day.cool.thanks Lariat 85.i "rep" ya
 
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 09:19 AM
  #10  
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lariat85= answer to my prayers! LOL.


On my way out with my phones so/so digital camera. Pictures in a few minutes.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 10:06 AM
  #11  
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Getting a little side tracked but I had to... Not to mention I live in a Ford household.























**** Just noticed the distributor wiring has been modified...
 
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 10:23 AM
  #12  
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From: Lost
Looks like it has already had the feedback system removed, and a DS2 ignition swap done. Assuming it was the feedback system originally....
 
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 10:23 PM
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one for you 85.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 12:47 AM
  #14  
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Nice truck, never actually seen the Victorian paint scheme on a truck, looks sweet.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 06:01 PM
  #15  
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It was a nice Sunday here in Houston,Tx. A little windy but very pleasant. I messed around with my truck, I tried a old trick taught in highschool auto tech... rev the engine cover the carb with a wrag and throttle it up to "Vacuum contaminants" from the jets/passage ways. It started idling better and everything was great when slowly driving but there was now a significant loss of power during moderate acceleration (as if the accelerator pump was not working). I pulled it off and before I knew it I pulled the top of the carb off.. then decided what the heck and pulled the whole thing. Now I have it in some carb dip dismantled with a new carb rebuild kit ready... a few pictures. I really don't think this carb is the original 85 electronic feedback. I don't know my way around carbs so forgive me but this thing was amazingly simple, I can't name half of the components but I know I can put it back together.





















A few pictures for now. Previous owner had a lot of insta gasket on the carb plates? I tried to show the hacked wiring to the distributor and my vacuum advanced distributor that has not been connected yet.
 
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