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So i'm about to put ball joints in my 07....and i finally found the moog part number for the joint without the arm .
Anyhow.....the workshop manual says to use the adhesive thats included with the ball joint to glue it into the arm.....anyhow....the moog ones don't come with anything......what am I supposed to use?
Also....anyone know if it can be done without removing the whole knuckle and instead pushing it toward the back????
Ryan, If it's the K80149 joint that I used you can press it out on the truck. I did it the old fashion way with a large socket on a jack and drove it out with a BFH. On one side it came out easy but the other side I had to carefully heat the arm around the joint , drive it a little (until it stopped moving) then let it cool naturally. I repeatted this step until it was removed. You can use Prematex Wick 'n Lock to hold the joint in place. The joint also comes with a snap ring to hold it. OTC makes a ball joint / Ujoint removal tool set that you may be able to rent locally.
I have a ball joint press.....so i'm not worried about getting it out or putting it back in. I just really didn't want to go through the whole ripping down the brakes....axle....ect.... doin it on the truck without pulling the knuckle off seems a whole lot simpler
Mine is a 2WD which is easier to access. You should be able to remove it in place with a good ball joint press though. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
I'm willing to bet there is not one ford tech (or non ford tech for that matter) who actually uses that when they replace the ball joints (probably why you are having a hard time finding something to use for loctite).
Are you doing upper and lower? Or just lower? I believe that I was able to do it without removing the knuckle when I did my lower one. However I was installing a wheel bearing at the same time so that may have made it easier.
Also from experience I have found that you may be better off just removing the knuckle and saving yourself the agony of having the thing in your way while you are doing this.
Well in talking to three different techs they all use it since it comes with the OEM joint, they just didn't know where or what to get when it didn't come along. Luckily the dealer had one in stock and opened it up to check what came with it, my problem is that I bought moog joints that don't come. With it and in talking to a few people the ball joint without it can spin in the aluminum arm and destroy the arm.
Well in talking to three different techs they all use it since it comes with the OEM joint, they just didn't know where or what to get when it didn't come along. Luckily the dealer had one in stock and opened it up to check what came with it, my problem is that I bought moog joints that don't come. With it and in talking to a few people the ball joint without it can spin in the aluminum arm and destroy the arm.
Never seen or heard of that. Interesting info.
The only time i've ever seen one spin was on a jeep that the ball joint was so worn out the stud started wearing through the main case of the joint.
On that note, be sure to torque the nut on the joint with a wrench. With aluminum arms they are really prone to splitting if they are overtightened.
I sent an email to moog to see what they say on the matter. You would think that it would be included with your joint if it was necessary.
Where the nut is tightened is in the forged steel knuckle assembly. The ball joint presses into the lower arm. The Permatex Bearing Mount should work to lock it in place. There are 2 that should work: #60910(10 ml. carded), 60950(50ml. bottle) which are good for up to .005 inch clearance, or #68050(50ml. bottle) that is go to .015 inch. These are under the Industrial products (Devcon) webb site.
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