If your going to go for a new pump do yourself a favor and go through the fuel bowl too. Kits available here complete with fuel pump or without. I suggest ordering part number F6TZ-9150-BA from parts guy Ed or wherever you choose. Thats the large mesh screen / filter in the FPR. Good luck!!!

 

could it be there is a section of rubber line collapsing under the suction, when you open filter canister you release suction allowing hose to open up restoring fuel flow

 

I just dealt with a pump that was not leaking, and it only produced 11 psi at idle. Motor ran, and ran well considering.

New pump, 51 psi, and no more lopy idle (only loped about 50 rpms). Misses in the 1500ish rpm range are gone.

Amazing what another 40 psi will do.

 

skip blowing all the fuel out of the lines. its just going to make getting it running after you install your new fuel pump (that you know you need ) more difficult. I took the filter housing out to make working in there a little easier. it was full of gunk up to the bottom of the fuel heater. so take yours out, invert it and hose it out with gumout carb n choke cleaner. if you suspect a problem with the fuel supply or return lines nows the time to check them but just do a visual inspection theyre mostly steel they run down the front of the engine and along the frame just make sure theres no holes in them that could suck air. (not very likely but hey you brought it up so check them if you want.) if theres a problem with the lines its going to be the short rubber connectors that connect the hard lines to the components of the fuel system. make sure theyre still flexable with no cracks.

 

I have a question on this subject. is copper compatible with diesel fuel? what about bio diesel? copper is by nature antimicrobial and would probably kill any bugs that grow in bio diesel and would make a good replacement for the steel fuel lines. any thoughts and ideas on this? granted it might be more expensive than steel but would it work?

 

Could very well be, but it should have a constant at least 10# all the way until it reaches the 2nd part of the pump.

 

I wasn't going to blow out all the fuel lines, just the canister is all, but then again it is full of air now anyways. I ended up removing the fuel filter canister and removed the fpr and took it apart as far as it could go and blew it out and the canister with no restriction at all (didn't think there would be) I really didn't find and real grime anywhere honestly. A tiny bit in the base of the canister, but that is fairly normal. I will put it back together tomorrow when my o ring kit and copper washers come in for the pump. It was super simple to take the pump out as it should be since it is only about 3 years old. I don't remember doing it before but I used the open end of the wrench to break the banjo nut loose then it came off with my fingers. Got lucky when I took out the bolts, must be the cam was in perfect position for removal as it came up as I loosened them. Surely will be perfect in re-installing too, then I will roll the motor once it's in where it belongs. The rubber lines were replaced the last time I changed the pump and look as good as new also. I traced the metal lines and they still look good as far as I can see. No leaks to speak of either....hopefully that wasn't it all along, surely a long shot but right now I hope it is the pump. Wouldn't the fuel be foamy if it was sucking air? I will keep everyone posted when I get the pump in and back together....hopefully tomorrow night as long as the parts are on time.

 

This saga is over!!!! Turns out the new pump did the trick!! Went back in quite easily actually. I knew it was good because it fired up pretty quick, where before it took forever to get the air out since it had such low pressure.

I have learned that the pump can be bad even though it isn't leaking and even though it is only 2-3 years old!!

Thanks for the tips, always appreciated!!

 

Glad to hear you get her going again!