Yeah, the DP is on my PMS list too...and dual 5" stacks...and the 650 pod...and a bunch of other useless crap to make me have a big a$$ grin...

 

yea well now that i think about it i dont see over 22 psi on 120R lol, my turbo has a fresh rebuild kit WW and 1.0 housing but think the center bearing housing is shot so my turbo still sucks

 

wait a couple weeks ago you were saying your not gonna chip your truck... musta changed your mind

 

you gotta get that fixed man, I see 34psi on mystock turbo.
After about 30 seconds, and ludacris speeds, I only get to about 1200-1250 degrees. Ill be doing water injection soon to compensate for the heat, but still....it takes a lot of time before my temps get unreasonable.

 

daang 34... and are you running stock tires? i got 35's so mine climb a little quicker, and how do you hold the petal for 30 seconds lol what are you runnin like 120 mph?

 

Running unloaded up a very steep hill. A test that we do to check performance gains. Rolling start at 55mph then at the "slower traffic keep right" sign you gun it. I don't know what grade it is for a hill but stock it went 70mph to the top and 90mph on 80e. I have not done it in 120r yet.
I have held it on the turnpike from 20mph til egt got too high for safety, and it was well over 100. I don't know what the speed limiter is set at but I didn't get to it.
I have stock tires right now and hope to upgrade later to either 285/75/16 or 255/85/16. I like the 255s I have on my obs 460 truck.
Anyway.
You gotta get the egt to stay a little lower. Even for a quick trip past 1200 I get uneasy. I'll be getting water injection soon. I'll two stage it for now. Run a small nozzel in the ic pipe before the Y from 18psi+ and then I'll probly run twin nozzels at each head after 25psi (shutting off the first one) and then if I still have egt issues, I'll design a controller to monitor boost and egt and have it control the nozzels and flow.

 

I did toy with mine and it was set to 24lb just before where my truck de fueled..I read some where over on the other site the PCM will read the map #'s to 24 lb of boost keeping things steady and efficient till it will de fuel..i guess even though its only 2lb diff the map #'s are big..after that the MAP numbers don't change much... its just a matter of not de fueling....maybe its the cold weather up here or parts are wearing in..could even be cause the BB turbo spools faster making the boost jump over the 24lb mark before it could re act to it but it worked good for 3 years...after the injector and turbo install it would de fuel..I called Dennis and he said to reset it...I cut it back to 23lb and it has been fine ever since......

 

I used my Scan Gauge to set mine. Took it out on the highway and nailed it. Tweaked the OBA until the CEL stopped coming on (around 21psi) and left it there. Then I changed tunes and the CEL came on again. Apparently, there is a difference in my tunes where the MAP is showing different boost numbers. No difference in the boost gauge. So I found the one that read the highest and re-set the OBA. Been all good since.

 

Put my "OCR" on today. Very easy, I like the bracket. Looks cleaner than having a regulator flopping around or zip tied. Not that I didn't believe everything stated earlier in the thread, but I tried it out myself with different pressures and it held steady no matter what. Very nice.
Clay, the only feedback I have for you if you are interested, is rotate the OCR clockwise about 10-15 degrees so the outlet port isn't pointed right at the hard A/C line. It's not a huge deal and I'm just going to sleeve the line with some wire loom, but it would be better if I didn't have to do that. Other than that, great job!

 

I put split loom over the lines on both sides of the OCR.

 

i thought i would do a little test today, i unplugged my waste gate, now i can hit 29psi and my SES light comes on, but i have the no codes tunes so i dont understand. i cant realy feel it defueling though.....

 

We talked about this earlier in the thread. Even with the no codes tunes you will still throw the overboost code (without an OCR), but it won't defuel.

 

oh your right i didnt even see clays post number 37, question answered thank you.

 

Thought I would revive this thread, got Clay's OCR in the mail yesterday. Clay hooked me up again, I paid for UPS ground and he sent it Priority mail, thanks again Clay. About the OCR boost regulator, works great, looks nice and no SES light. I layed into it and hit between 27-30 pegged and no light and it kept pulling, very nice, its worth every penny. Very nice and well thought out. I know, worthless without pics but their coming.

 

Man I have a 2001 7.3 and have a 4 inch exhaust that I made with a 4 inch down pipe and a afe stage 2 intake an ats ported housing that I would not recommend to anyone it's too noisy will really **** u off if u drive a lot and on top of that a have a aftermarket wheel in the turbo (that I thought I had to have when I liked the whistle) I make 26 pounds of boost but I have the same truck in a dually with about 300,000 more miles and it makes 18 pounds of boost with all the same **** I think it's the waste gate and possibly just worn out parts it should be all stock tuning on the map censer but they say if ur waste gate is closed and if your truck is not de fueling it should make every bit of 30 pounds of boost on a good tune I would recommend an aftermarket FPR (fuel pressure regulator) ur stock pressure is either 40 or 50 pounds u can get it up around 70-80 safely I think. it's in that fitting on the return line on the fuel bowl and also the guzzle in tank mixing chamber mod very big difference in power but if I get over 25 pounds it will de fuel because the map sensor if it didn't I could blow a 6.0's doors off instead of just hanging with him