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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 11:20 PM
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Porting help

Hey guys--

I'm going to be polishing the runners, bowls, and unshrouding the valves on my '81 head. I've been reading about the process for quite a while, and watching instructional videos to educate myself about the process.

If anyone has a tip for me, or knows where/what porting kit is best, I would welcome your reply.

I will also have the head milled .010 more to compensate for the drop in compression ratio due to the unshrouding.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 06:32 AM
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buy the porting kit from eastwood. it is designed for v/ 8's, so you will have extra cutters. remove the valves. be very careful around the valve seats, you don't want to score them. when done, lap the valves with medium valve grinding compound, then fine.wash everything with dawn dishwashing detergent when done. TAKE YOUR TIME.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 07:00 AM
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Porting+

Hey bud, don't forget the pics, please. Have you seen the pics of "lazy jw's" port & polish? I believe they were posted on "ford six perf.", really good. OBCB
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 07:25 PM
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Since I will be removing the ridge in the c. chamber which partially encircles both the in. and exh. valves, I was wondering if I should have the head surface shaved a bit more to compensate and retain my c. ratio?

<a href="http://s659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/?action=view&current=P1010114.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/P1010114.jpg" border="0" alt="chebby valves in a FORD??"></a>
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 07:35 PM
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if you remove it yes. look at it carefully, there is a "swerl" designed in to make the gasses "active". you could be designing over, what ford designed. just my .02
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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With the larger valves there might not be a whole lot of room left for deshrouding...might check with your machinist on that.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 01:28 AM
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I don't see any room for deshrouding there- What does that look like with the HG layed over it?
My favorite trick was to carve a groove in the roof and floor of the intake, opposite directions to impart a spin on the incoming charge. Get rid of the emissions bump in the exhaust port, and gasket match. I've never been able to take the time to cut apart a head and figure out just how much meat there is around the ports, so while I did hog the crap out of my old 300-6, use caution. A good full bowl port and general smoothing goes a long ways.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Ford_Six
I don't see any room for deshrouding there- What does that look like with the HG layed over it?
My favorite trick was to carve a groove in the roof and floor of the intake, opposite directions to impart a spin on the incoming charge. Get rid of the emissions bump in the exhaust port, and gasket match. I've never been able to take the time to cut apart a head and figure out just how much meat there is around the ports, so while I did hog the crap out of my old 300-6, use caution. A good full bowl port and general smoothing goes a long ways.

Should the ridge from the plug hole out be removed, flattened out to improve flow?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 04:18 PM
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I say no, if you look, it is shorter by the intake valve, taller at the exhaust. this will cause the gasses to turn as the piston pushes it out, makeing a swerl. just clean it so it is smooth. that's what I did, plus a gasket match, and polish.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 05:54 PM
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All I usually do in the combustion chamber is smooth it, use a sander drum in a Dremel and get it to where you can see your reflection. You don't want to lose any strength right there, and it's really not hurting anything.
Also, just break that edge around the chamber so that hot spots can't form as easily.
 
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