Has anyone done this? I have seen some 53-56 models with a cross-flow and did see one 50 model in Daytona last year that had one installed with a 302. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of the installation and don't remember much about how it was installed. Since cross-flows basically have no mounting brackets, how do you secure them? I have a brand new one that I bought for another vehicle that recently died and would really like to use it in my old 48 F-3 to save some bucks on my cooling system. Does anyone have a picture or any advise on installation?

 

Vern,
I used a cross flow in my 56. The mounting system consisted of two lower brackets to hold the rubber mount pads and two removable upper brackets to hold the upper rubber pads. The radiator is "clamped" in place by the brackets and cushioned by the pads. See if you can snag the rubber pads from donor vehicle and fabricate the brackets to hold them.

Good Luck,

 

Kent,

Thanks. The vehicle's gone, but I'm pretty sure I kept the rubber pads you referred to. So, basically it's just a matter of fabricating brackets to hold the rubber pads...wouldn't happen to have a picture would you?

 

Vern,
My radiator came from a Camaro and the rubber pads are held in place with a single "rubber tit" that gets pulled through a small hole. I don't have any pics of the lower brackets, but they are made of a piece of 3/4" square tubing that I split down the center. This was just a little wider than the rubber cushion.
If you look in my gallery at the reverse tilt hood, you can see the upper bracket. It is a piece of aluminum with an angle to add strength that installs over the top of the entire radiator. There is a hole on either end to mount the rubber cushions and the entire piece is held in place by 3 bolts. It could be done with a smaller bracket on each end, but I used this piece to "cover and smooth" the crossmember.

Good Luck,

 

There are guys on here that can help you more than I on the details, but there is an early 70's pickup radiator that fits very well in these old trucks.

 

Franklin,

Yeah, I had heard that. I also think mid 60's Mustang radiators would work pretty easily, but since I had this new cross-flow, it just seems a shame to go out and buy another radiator.

Kent,

I don't know how to look at your gallery. Did you use the cross-flow horizontally like they were intended or stand it up?

 

Vern,
My radiator is mounted horizontally. I will try to post a link to my gallery below.

fatford's gallery

Hope this works,

 

Kent,

That worked fine. Nice old truck. I couldn't really tell much about how the radiator was mounted, but since I know it can be done I'll figure out something when the time comes. Thanks.

 

Ya, the trucks from the early to mid or later '70s trucks would fit, and they are the same as the ones from the econolines which is what I got mine from. Has the Ford configuration of water outlits and is huge, it goes from one side of the fenders to the other, from the bottom of the frame to the top of the hood. Keeps my engine running at 190 while idling in the hot summer. I have an electric fan, but the box said that it's an auxiliary fan for my engine.

Clayton

 

RBs has a Griffen aluminumradiator with dual spall fans cross flow for lots of money but that is the way I went . Took a lot of modifing to get it right but it is ready when the other part of the project are ready. Ed so. Calif

 

They mid- 70s radiators do fit well Franklin, but I think the hose outlets would be flipped for Vern's engine.

 

'fenders,

I don't know how you know what engine I'll be using because even I don't know what engine I'll be using. I know where a 351M and C6 is in a one ton van, but I don't know that I can afford it and I'd have to pull it. I've never pulled an engine out of van before, but it can't be too tough. The owner can't decide whether to junk the van and sell the drive train or sell the van whole. I'm waiting for a good deal.

 

'fenders,

"I don't know how you know what engine I'll be using because even I don't know what engine I'll be using. "

Vern

I got that from your the Mega engine/suspension thread you started last month and I so diligently recorded. I got you down for leaning towards a Chebby motor since you already own it! It doesn't really matter though, we'll let you out of your Chevy SB contract without penalty.

I wouldn't be too worried about your radiator though until you figure out what kind of mill you want to run. You can move the radiator outlets but I would sure avoid it if I had my druthers.

Not a big deal to pull a van engine if you aren't worried about scuffing the van. It's a little slower than a car or truck engine pull but nothing a man of your talents can't handle.

 

'Fenders,

Yes, leaning toward, but not decided fully. I appreciate your offer to let me out without penalty, however.

New question: Now the owner of the 351 says he's not sure it's a 351M. It may be a 351C or W. Is there an easy way to tell the difference between them? I've heard that the 351M is more of a grunt motor than performance. I really don't care, but it might be a factor in the value of the engine. Does the value of a 351 depend on whether it's a C,W, or M?

 

Vern

Hopefully someone will chime in here with an easy way to tell them apart. I can just tell by looking but that doesn't help you. What year is the van? 351W were very popular in vans and look almost identical to a 302. (They still look girly when stock but let's not go there) Parts are considerably cheaper for a Windsor than the Modified or Cleveland. I am going to go out on a limb and say it is very unlikely a 351C as they weren't used in vans too much to my knowledge. Anyone of the 351 motors is fine for your truck. Value depends on condition more than type unless it's a C. 351M and W are a dime a dozen in worn out condition. Post a thread in the 351M forum and you'll get instant answers.