BIG BIG Development.

About 20 minutes ago, I took the battery back out to the truck and hooked it up (It was drained from excessive starting attempts). I had left the hood open for about 2 hours, so the sun could get any residual dampness out of there (The fog, mist, and dampness has cleared up as of this morning). I go to start it, and it starts, after I floor the gas pedal. I take my foot off the gas pedal and it dies. I leave it for 2 or 3 minutes and try again. This time, no gas pedal needed, and it idles fine. I let it sit there for about 5 minutes and warm up. Then I take it for a short drive; about 2 miles. It runs normal for the most part on the trip there; then I go to turn around, and as I'm keeping it still while I wait for a car to pass, the whole truck is vibrating. I go and have to give it some gas, and then big problems. It doesn't stop. I end up going 50+ MPH down a 30 MPH road avoiding cars and pedestrians, and have to turn the engine off to get it to stop. Putting it in neutral just made the engine run incredibly fast. I tried starting it again, and in park it does the same thing (I immediately shut it off again). I assume from this that I have some type of fuel regulation problem. Am I correct in this assumption? Thanks for all your help, both in past posts and in posts yet to come. THanks!

 

Sounds like the throttle plates (butter flys) are stuck at WOT.
Pull the big rubber hoses off the throttle body and look at them and move the throttle and see if the snap closed. Sometimes after setting for a while the throttle shaft will rust some and stick in the throttle body.

 

If the throttle plates are stuck all the way at WOT the engine will not start as this tells the computer that you are trying to start a flooded engine and the computer will not fire the fuel injectors.
This sounds like what may have happened as to why it did not start before.

 

Put a stick a dynamite in it! J/K



It sounds like the ecm is sending the fuel pump bad signals to increase fuel to the engine,as the ecm is receiving a bad signal,double check the codes.

 

At one point we had removed the lower hose and tried to squirt some ether in there to see if it would start... We then reattached it and tightened up the connection. Would WOT be an indication of a physical fault, like something wrong with the controls or valves or something, or is it a situational thing that might not repeat itself (Just occurs once by fluke/delayed reaction to something)?
Thanks

 

Sorry, also forgot to mention that the check engine light was on but not blinking when I was having to go home at twice the speed limit, so it knew something was wrong... Also I tried to start it again after I got it parked, and the engine just raced again

 

The ecm (PCM computer) can not tell the fuel pumps to increase fuel to the engine.

The PCM adjust fuel to the engine by adjusting the pulse width of the ground to the injectors.

 

WOT just means Wide Open Throttle.

No its sounds like a vacuum leak.

WOT is a big vacuum leak.
You need to find out why it did this before you drive it again.

 

Could this be a symptom of the same problem that caused it to not start in the first place? or is it a different problem, possibly incurred while trying to start it?
EDIT: I found out that yes, your right, the snap is almost completely closed... How tight are the clamps around the hose supposed to be? That might sound like a dumb question but I thought I'd tightened them properly after removal, but maybe not.

 

What snap?
The clamps would not cause anything.

 

Didn't know what else to call it... The small disc or fly or whatever that's stuck and causing the WOT.

I had thought that maybe if the clamps or braces around the air hoses were loose that air could leak into them... Maybe not. Would it be a leak in the hoses that I should be look for then? Or something interfering with the gas line?

 

The "Y" was missing from the "the".
It should have read:
Pull the big rubber hoses off the throttle body and look at the throttle plates and move the throttle to wide open and let go and see if the throttle plates snap back closed.

The leak would be after the air hose or after the throttle plates. When the throttle plates are closed no air should get by them. The only air going into the upper intake manifold should be by way of the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve and the PCV valve.

It is also possible that the IAC is stuck open. If so you need to clean it if it has a removable solenoid or else replace it.

Pull the plug off the IAC valve and the engine should die if at idle and if everything is right.
If the throttle plates are closed and you have no broken vacuum hoses or leaking gaskets then the IAC valve may be stuck open. With the plug off the IAC and you know the throttle plates are closed start the engine and if the RPMs go high then I would say the IAC valve is bad or you have a big vacuum leak.

 

Thanks, will try these things tonight and post what happens.

 

I did some editing in the last post so you might reread it.

 

sorry otto i been busy but after reading all the post looks like everyone pretty much covered your problem. i hope you check and fixed all the issues and all is good by now.