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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 11:29 PM
  #16  
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thats alright, yea, my truck isn't equiped with the duraspark, just has the ignition hot wire that is resisted down to 6 volts in run position and bumps up to 12 volts when cranking ( For points system), should i be running a duraspark module with the electronic pickup dist. i am running?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 11:30 PM
  #17  
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This pic is before i overhauled it...




 
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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by lestadsht
This pic is before i overhauled it...




What is that seat out of? I'd like to snag me one of them.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 11:50 PM
  #19  
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[QUOTE=Bullitt390;8634418]You can't set initial timing to 30 degrees BTDC, no wonder the engine won't turn over.

Set it to -12 and be done with it. Hook up the white Duraspark wire to the "I" terminal of your starter solenoid and it will retard the ignition slightly while cranking.

Josh
Are you stating -12 degrees as in 12 degrees retarded as opposed to 12 degrees advanced? The "-" has me a little confused.
Rich
 
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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 11:55 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Riderman
Josh
Are you stating -12 degrees as in 12 degrees retarded as opposed to 12 degrees advanced?
Rich
Yes -12 degrees BTDC which can also be written 12 degrees BTDC.

Remember:

Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the port.

Set the initial timing with engine running at idle.

Re-connect the vacuum advance (to ported vacuum, not full manifold vacuum).

Adjust your idle

Burn rubber!

Josh
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 10:56 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
Yes -12 degrees BTDC which can also be written 12 degrees BTDC.

Remember:

Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the port.

Set the initial timing with engine running at idle.

Re-connect the vacuum advance (to ported vacuum, not full manifold vacuum).

Adjust your idle

Burn rubber!

Josh
That's it right there.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 01:54 PM
  #22  
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so i need to do what you said josh? do i need a duraspark module or no?
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 01:58 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by CheeksMcDuke
What is that seat out of? I'd like to snag me one of them.
not exactly sure, was in the truck when i bought it... its comfortable tho...
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 02:19 PM
  #24  
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This thread's kind of run off course, i'm still not sure where the OP's timing is set, did you throw a timing light on it yet?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 10:57 AM
  #25  
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no i could not get it to idle long enough to put a timing light on it.... longest i have gotten it to idle is 2 minutes, then it sorta acts like it loads up and dies... so i got a fuel pressure reg, to put on it just to make sure the stock fuel pump isn't over working the needle and seats in the new carb.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 12:36 PM
  #26  
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Edelbrocks don't like much more than 5-6psi, i had to run a regulator on mine too, set it to 5.5psi and i haven't had any issues since.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 10:26 AM
  #27  
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well got the reg. on it, and now it idles, but the brand new comp cams lifters are rattling really bad on the driver side and making a miss....
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 03:06 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by CheeksMcDuke
What is that seat out of? I'd like to snag me one of them.
EDIT: replied to wrong post
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 03:09 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by lestadsht
This pic is before i overhauled it...


If i am not mistaken you are running a Accel coil.
That coil doesnt require a resistor. it should be at 12 v always.
This is not your problem but it could be robbing you of Spark.
and if your motor was to flood on final sparked stroke before you shut the truck off, in addition to your timing being slightly off starting it again would be a SOB.
This is a far off analization. but it could be your problem.
Any aftermarket coil that says 12V on the coil somewhere is to be wired to constant 12 volts.
The old coils were 6v probably because the internals were crappier than todays coils and couldn't hold up to 12v for extended periods.
Mabey not an issue on your truck but i would look into it.
Fixing this will also give you more power in your high Rpm's
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 11:03 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by FossenRacing
If i am not mistaken you are running a Accel coil.
That coil doesnt require a resistor. it should be at 12 v always.
This is not your problem but it could be robbing you of Spark.
and if your motor was to flood on final sparked stroke before you shut the truck off, in addition to your timing being slightly off starting it again would be a SOB.
This is a far off analization. but it could be your problem.
Any aftermarket coil that says 12V on the coil somewhere is to be wired to constant 12 volts.
The old coils were 6v probably because the internals were crappier than todays coils and couldn't hold up to 12v for extended periods.
Mabey not an issue on your truck but i would look into it.
Fixing this will also give you more power in your high Rpm's
Thank you for the info. yes, that was the old coil. i'm running a new summit racing coil now... but it should hold true for it as well... thanks for the info, i wasn't for sure if it could handle a constant 12 or if i should still have the resistor hooked up to it... so i left it original to be safe...
 
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