Carrier bearing replacement
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 124
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From: Harrison Twp., Michigan
Carrier bearing replacement
Hello everyone, I would like to ask for a little help,or direction. I am pretty sure that the intermittent vibration I have been feeling is related to my carrier bearing. I was able to move my drive shaft more than 3/8 of an inch.
Is there a link that describes the R and R of the bearing and another link to find the part numbers? Thanks guys!
Is there a link that describes the R and R of the bearing and another link to find the part numbers? Thanks guys!
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,426
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From: Manchester, NJ
Here is a thread i started about the carrier bearing replacement:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...riveshaft.html
Hope any of this info can be useful.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...riveshaft.html
Hope any of this info can be useful.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
FIRST... if you do this work yourself... make sure to chock the wheels before breaking loose your drive shaft. I ended up with a broken ankle, surgery, and a close call with the grim reaper by forgetting that little detail when I did mine.
Cheaper to remove the drive shafts and carry them to someone with a press. The nut is torqued at 300 ft-lbs, and I was swinging my 4'x8' 250 lb work bench around my garage trying to get mine loose... let someone else do it who does it regularly.
Before removing the two drive shafts, mark one side (bottom side) of each with a wax pen so you don't end up with an imbalanced drive line after getting the new carrier bearing back in.
When reinstalling the new carrier bearing/drive shaft assembly under the truck, make sure to get the carrier bearing lined up in the center of the holes to minimize misalignment of the two drive shafts. Just use a long straight stick or pipe as a check stick for good alignment.
Cheaper to remove the drive shafts and carry them to someone with a press. The nut is torqued at 300 ft-lbs, and I was swinging my 4'x8' 250 lb work bench around my garage trying to get mine loose... let someone else do it who does it regularly.
Before removing the two drive shafts, mark one side (bottom side) of each with a wax pen so you don't end up with an imbalanced drive line after getting the new carrier bearing back in.
When reinstalling the new carrier bearing/drive shaft assembly under the truck, make sure to get the carrier bearing lined up in the center of the holes to minimize misalignment of the two drive shafts. Just use a long straight stick or pipe as a check stick for good alignment.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 124
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From: Harrison Twp., Michigan
Thanks guys for the feedback, It's a bit too wet to crawl under there today but the end of the week looks good
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From: Harrison Twp., Michigan
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
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From: Lancaster, Pa.
We all do it once and awhile, 
. I had a rubbing sound turning in tight corners that made me realize something was wrong under there, good luck.
. I had a rubbing sound turning in tight corners that made me realize something was wrong under there, good luck.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 124
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From: Harrison Twp., Michigan
My buds', bud owns an auto parts supply shop , He says he will press them in for a total of $ 60. I loose what I gain when I take off work to do it. I will lube up the splines while it is down. Any other suggestions ? Thanks again !
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 718
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From: Chattanooga, TN
Carry it to most any drive line shop - they should press the old one off and the new one on for less than $60. If $60, then that should include a rebalancing of the assembly.
Just did my u-joints and support bearing on the two sections from the transmission back to the rear diff.
LOL
Just did my u-joints and support bearing on the two sections from the transmission back to the rear diff.
LOL