I'm swapping out my fuel pump. Do I need to drain my oil before doing this?

 

Only if gas leaked into the crankcase and mixed with your oil.



John

 

No, the oil level is below the fuel pump mount.

BEFORE you remove the fuel line leading up to the pump from the gas tank, have a 3/8" bolt at the ready so that when you do remove the hose, you can stick the bolt into the hose (to keep fuel from running all over the place). Another method is to use a pair of vise grips to clamp off the hose to prevent fuel drainage. It will drain, because it has a siphon effect at that point. If you don't have a bench vise, next loosen the hose fittings while the pump is still mounted on the engine. Remove the pump mounting bolts. Using a pipe joint compound, attach the hose fittings to your new pump. Clean off the gasket surface at the block and put a smear of grease on the new pump arm before inserting it into the block. Start the bolts evenly so as to fasten the pump to the block squarely. Inspect the flex hose carefully for any cracks or drying out - now is the best time to change those hose sections if they indicate any such aging. Lastly, a couple of new hose clamps is always good insurance too. This is also a good time to inspect the flex fuel section below the cab, after the line passes through the cab floor and the section (if equipped with one) on the engine leading to the carb. Realize too that the bottom section of the pump contains a fuel filter element. Remove/unscrew the outer cap/cover exposing the filter element, this will provide you with more room to remove the pump. On your new pump, remove this cover and smear a bit of grease on the attaching threads; this will help reduce the corrosion that many times occurs there and ease its removal when it comes time to change the fuel filter in the future.

What John was referring to was if your changing your fuel pump because it couldn't build pressure/supply gas to your carb, it is commonly due to the pumps' diaphragm leaking, - and when it leaks, it leaks gasoline into the block which then mixes with your motor oil - not a good thing.
A quick check of that problem is that you'll notice your oil level is INCREASING; due to the gasoline being added to the motor oil. Another quick check is to pull your motor oil level dipstick and smell it - it will smell like gasoline - since it's leaking into the block.

Good Luck!
BarnieTrk

 

Hey thanks guys. The pump that I am replacing seems to be working ok, but I am having a bit of a fuel delivery issue (or more likely a vacuum leak) and I figured that while I am still in the "honeymoon" phase with the truck, it was worth the $30 peace of mind.

For preventing fuel leakage, I like to use hemostats (surgical scissor shaped heart valve clamps) provided by my lovely little lady, who is a nurse.

 

Golf tee's also come in handly for plugging vac., fuel, and oil lines. If have not already done so, suggest installing a fuel filter between the tank and pump; either an inline, or canaster type, mounted 1 on the 65's inner fender, surprising how much debris is filtered out.

 

Sammycooks,
I don't want to discourage you from enjoying your 'honeymoon' with your new-to-you old truck, but you'll have LOTS of opportunities to spend $$ on the ol' girl! I'd suggest before you simply start buying & changing parts, do some testing to determine its condition.

I'd suggest you first buy a vacuum/pressure gage tester. Then ground the coil wire so the engine doesn't try to start, then remove the fuel line at the carb and place the pressure tester on the end of the delivery line. Have your honey turn the key & crank over the engine while you hold the tester and watch for a fuel pressure reading. It should be in the neighborhood of 4-6 psi. If that test indicates a result within the acceptable range, then test for the delivery volume.
With the coil wire still grounded, place the delivery line into a clean, empty 1-gallon plastic jug. Have your honey crank the engine again for a timed 30 seconds. In 30 seconds, the pump should deliver nearly a 1/2 gallon of fuel to the jug. If so, then the pump is fine.

BarnieTrk

 

I hope she wipes em up good before taking them back to the OR.




John

 

Yeah, John... they may not be going back to the OR............

 

Are you aware that the original type of fuel pumps used in these trucks have a fuel filter inside them?

This was the only location for the fuel filter used on trucks thru 1977.

Look at the pump, does it have a tomato juice sized can on it that threads off/on?

If so...inside...is this: C4AZ9365B .. Cartridge Fuel Filter (Motorcraft FG1A) / Available from Ford and autoparts stores.

Since most ppl are unaware there is a fuel filter inside the pump, it rarely gets changed. And...since they don't see any fuel filter, they install an inline fuel filter.
.
Meanwhile...the original is still there...and prolly clogged up.

 

Thanks, Bill... I am indeed aware of the filter inside of the canister. I also have an inline filter installed between the pump and the carb.